This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.
Here's a great bass drive from BearFoot FX in Sweden. Kind of similar to a RAT, but not really. It's a completely different beast. Q1 calls for a 2N5952, but other JFETs should work there too, just socket and mind the pinout.
I used one off FSB. As far as I know BearFoot FX and BJFE are one and the same. BearFoot is just the new company name Bjorn has adopted. I don't think there are any differences between a BearFoot Blueberry and a BJFE Blueberry.
There is a difference in "Natural" pot connection. BJFE has it connected to VOL 3 but Barefoot to the JFET source as a MP version. Also values are different. I can't find the schematics that fits this Barefoot layout. http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25767
Hello, I`m considering to try build this. But I`m totally green with DIY electronics. I guess that the IC and Q are the key components to make it sound like original? But the "2N5952" is almost impossible to buy here.. Is it irreplaceable? I mean if it is needed to be exactly this type of transistor or is some substitute out there? For the IC - is some brand prefered or all of them work the same? And thirdly: the other parts - resistors and capacitors - is it OK to buy them only by listed values or the result depends on types? (I mean electrolytic/ceramic and so on) You are probably not used for such dumb basic questions.. :-) If the original were in local shop I would probably buy it, but for now this seems like easier way.. :-) Thanks in forward for your answers and time.
Swapping those components shouldn't change the sound too much. Someone already built it using an NE5534 for the IC and an MPF102 for Q1. Other options for Q1 would be 2N5457 or 58. Socketing those components is highly recommended.
Hi i'm building these pedal, but i've a stupid question. For you, a and b potentiometer,are a=log and b=linear or ti opposit? Can i put a parallel 100k resistor in a or b 100k potentiometer to have 50 k, or i Will have problem with the logarithm? Thanks very much for helping!
You have the pot codes correct (A=log, B=lin). That parallel resistor trick will work. It shouldn't alter a linear taper, but might a little with a log taper.
For the resistor i've resolved, but i've some dubito about the DPDt cable...have you got a mail to have your help? Tks very much!!! My mail is 1claudiobruno@gmail.com
Hi EL,scuse me. i had a problem whit This pedal...i'd check more time the cables, connections, ecc...but when i switch on for the first time the pedal, it Not Work, and the resistor of the switch on led become Hot like burning...online This resistor...have you got and idea? I, ve used Not a standard led, but a smaller led..thanks..
For the resistor i've resolved, but i've some dubito about the DPDt cable...have you got a mail to have your help? Tks very much!!! My mail is 1claudiobruno@gmail.com.
Hi ! Congratulations for this blog is fantastic. I made this pedal manufacturing the pcb by cnc machining. I double checked everything many times but it doesn't work. The active components i used were CA3130 for the IC and 2N5952 for Q1. Everything is in place and neat, i really don't get what i'm missing this time. Any advice ? Many thanks.
Yeah,me too...i've controlled more times, all single component, but don't Work firstly the pedal, but allo the True bypass...if i turn off the pedal, the bass signal don't go out..
The layout is verified, so there must be some error with your builds. Check for any shorts with a multimeter and also try using an audio probe to find the errors.
Is This etched side to be done as shown or should it be reversed. Just to be clear, when etched properly should BBBOD read out as such or backwards? Thanks!
If you're using the toner transfer method, yes. Print it out as is. Once the toner is transfer the text will read the right way. If you're doing photo-resist you can flip it. Also I suggest using the pdf in the Transfer Library as it's already scaled and ready for printing.
Yes I am doing photo resist etching so looks like I need to flip it. Thank you very much! Let me please reconfirm 1 dumb question. When the copper board is finished The copper side will read out BBBDOD correctly, right? Sorry sometimes these things confuse me.
what ic can i replace to a CA3130? can i substitute it with a NE5534?
ReplyDeleteThe pinout is the same, so socket and see. But no guarantee it'll sound the same as the demo. But it's probably worth trying.
Deletei'll try it, hope to reply you soon.. tnx.
Deletei use an ic NE5534 and a MPF102 transistor and it rocks!!! sounds great.. thanks for the layout. one of the best site.. AMEN!
ReplyDeletewhat schematic did you use for this? just checking that it's based on the bearfoot version and not the bjfe?
ReplyDeleteI used one off FSB. As far as I know BearFoot FX and BJFE are one and the same. BearFoot is just the new company name Bjorn has adopted. I don't think there are any differences between a BearFoot Blueberry and a BJFE Blueberry.
Deletethanks for the info!! this site is awesome btw!
DeleteThere is a difference in "Natural" pot connection. BJFE has it connected to VOL 3 but Barefoot to the JFET source as a MP version. Also values are different. I can't find the schematics that fits this Barefoot layout. http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25767
DeleteEDIT: found it - http://freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=25087&mode=view
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI`m considering to try build this. But I`m totally green with DIY electronics. I guess that the IC and Q are the key components to make it sound like original? But the "2N5952" is almost impossible to buy here.. Is it irreplaceable? I mean if it is needed to be exactly this type of transistor or is some substitute out there?
For the IC - is some brand prefered or all of them work the same?
And thirdly: the other parts - resistors and capacitors - is it OK to buy them only by listed values or the result depends on types? (I mean electrolytic/ceramic and so on)
You are probably not used for such dumb basic questions.. :-) If the original were in local shop I would probably buy it, but for now this seems like easier way.. :-) Thanks in forward for your answers and time.
Swapping those components shouldn't change the sound too much. Someone already built it using an NE5534 for the IC and an MPF102 for Q1. Other options for Q1 would be 2N5457 or 58. Socketing those components is highly recommended.
ReplyDeleteHi i'm building these pedal, but i've a stupid question. For you, a and b potentiometer,are a=log and b=linear or ti opposit? Can i put a parallel 100k resistor in a or b 100k potentiometer to have 50 k, or i Will have problem with the logarithm? Thanks very much for helping!
ReplyDeleteYou have the pot codes correct (A=log, B=lin). That parallel resistor trick will work. It shouldn't alter a linear taper, but might a little with a log taper.
DeleteThanks EL!!!
DeleteFor the resistor i've resolved, but i've some dubito about the DPDt cable...have you got a mail to have your help? Tks very much!!! My mail is 1claudiobruno@gmail.com
DeleteHi EL,scuse me. i had a problem whit This pedal...i'd check more time the cables, connections, ecc...but when i switch on for the first time the pedal, it Not Work, and the resistor of the switch on led become Hot like burning...online This resistor...have you got and idea? I, ve used Not a standard led, but a smaller led..thanks..
ReplyDeleteFor the resistor i've resolved, but i've some dubito about the DPDt cable...have you got a mail to have your help? Tks very much!!! My mail is 1claudiobruno@gmail.com.
ReplyDeleteHi ! Congratulations for this blog is fantastic. I made this pedal manufacturing the pcb by cnc machining. I double checked everything many times but it doesn't work. The active components i used were CA3130 for the IC and 2N5952 for Q1. Everything is in place and neat, i really don't get what i'm missing this time. Any advice ? Many thanks.
ReplyDeleteYeah,me too...i've controlled more times, all single component, but don't Work firstly the pedal, but allo the True bypass...if i turn off the pedal, the bass signal don't go out..
DeleteThe layout is verified, so there must be some error with your builds. Check for any shorts with a multimeter and also try using an audio probe to find the errors.
Deletehttp://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html
Thanks ! i will and then report back.
DeleteFabio are you italian?if you watt we can help ourselves to diy these pedal..my mail :
Delete1claudiobruno@gmail.com
Ok, I found out the problem. I'm a noob since i did not mirror the pcb image prior machining. Now it plays like heaven. Thanks again.
DeleteHaha! That would do it. Glad you got it sorted out.
DeleteDone! Sounds great. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteIs This etched side to be done as shown or should it be reversed. Just to be clear, when etched properly should BBBOD read out as such or backwards? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteIf you're using the toner transfer method, yes. Print it out as is. Once the toner is transfer the text will read the right way. If you're doing photo-resist you can flip it. Also I suggest using the pdf in the Transfer Library as it's already scaled and ready for printing.
DeleteYes I am doing photo resist etching so looks like I need to flip it. Thank you very much! Let me please reconfirm 1 dumb question. When the copper board is finished The copper side will read out BBBDOD correctly, right? Sorry sometimes these things confuse me.
ReplyDelete