This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.

General Layout Notes

I like to keep things neat on circuit boards. That means no standing axial components, no jumpers (unless I can't help it), and no offboard wiring points in the middle of the board.

Pot numbering follows this diagram:



Switch numbering follows this diagram:





For PCB layouts, square pads can indicate several things:
• Positive side of a polarized capacitor
• Indicator side of a diode
• The emitter of a BJT transistor
• The gate of a DSG pinout FET transistor
 • The source of a DGS pinout FET transistor
• Pin 1 of an IC
• Lug 1 of a potentiometer

Larger pads (square or circular) are for offboard wires or board mounted pots, but I don't always have room to make offboard wiring pads larger.

If you're having trouble scaling a PCB transfer image, check out the Transfer Image Library page for pre-scaled PDFs of every PCB transfer image on the site. All you have to do is download the file and print. The files are organized by brand. Those brands that do not have two or more layouts on the site are grouped together in the "Misc." folder.

Some have asked about off board wiring in comments and emails. While there are a lot of different ways to do this (mostly in wiring the footswitch) and lot of different diagrams and info around the internet on the subject, here's how I typically wire up a pedal when using a 3PDT footswitch.


Blue wires indicate audio path, green wires ground, and red wires voltage.

You may notice the input jack doesn't have a wire connecting the sleeve to the other ground points. If you're using an aluminum enclosure and your jacks don't have plastic insulating the sleeve from the enclosure, the jack sleeves will be connected to each other through the enclosure. I generally double check that with a multimeter, but I've never had that not work.

I've shown the DC jack being grounded via the circuit board (mostly to keep the drawing from getting too cluttered), but you can ground it to one of the jack sleeves if you prefer. Also, I almost never include a 9 volt battery snap in my builds, so I left it out of this diagram. If you want to include one, Google is your friend.

This diagram reflects using an off board resistor for LED status indication. This resistor can vary between 2.2k up to 10k (I typically use 4.7k), so use whatever you prefer there. A lot of the layouts on this blog have a resistor for the LED on/off indicator included on the board. In that case, wire the anode (+) of the LED to the appropriate pad on the circuit board. 

If you're wondering how to wire 2 circuits in one box, it's essentially the same as above, but with the output of the footswitch to the input of the next:



148 comments:

  1. Hi there,

    Fantastic website. I tried using the transfer image for the Deep Blue Delay but once it's on the copper it's flipped horizontally compared to the images on the project page. Do I have to manually flip the image before printing it? I notice that Adobe Reader doesn't have a horizontal flip option. I'm just wondering if I've missed something.

    Thank you for all that you do. It's great work and massively appreciated.

    N

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    Replies
    1. Hey N8,

      Thanks for your kind words, and I'm glad you like the site.

      No need to flip the transfers before printing. The layouts are drawn as if looking from the component side of the board. So if you were to look at the copper side of the board it would have to be mirrored. If you were to mirror the image (flip horizontally) before printing, the pinouts of ICs, transistors, and pots would all be reversed (not too big a deal with transistors and pots, but big trouble with ICs). Hope that helps. Holler if you need any help.

      -storyboardist

      Delete
  2. Thank you, Sir.
    This website is a masterpiece. Great contribution to the world!

    Verified: TS808 and Fuzz Factory
    Next: Deluxe Pitch Pirate
    Wishlist: Zvex Instant Lo-Fi Junky

    Best regards.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thank You, for sharing ,,,
    I like your blog.

    next project, please share Metal Zone "BOSS MT2" and any more metal distortions...

    : hehe...

    ReplyDelete
  4. First of all thank you very much for your sharing
    You are doing a fantastic job
    All my gratitude.
    It would be great if you could share the pcb of the HIMMELSTRUTZ FETTO
    It is a great pedal imho and i'd like to build one, it is too expensive for me to buy
    Thank you very much
    Peter

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  5. I really love this site. Thank you so much.

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  6. Best DIY stompbox site out there, period.
    Will there be more models added to the drilling templates?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks man! Yes, I plan on adding more drilling templates as I have time to do so.

      Delete
  7. Have you ever attempted a tuner pedal?

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  8. maybe you could do a layout for powerbrick with multiple output ie.+9v,-9v,12v/18v
    i'm sure many noobs like me would appreciate
    thanks

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  9. Hi ... I've etched and used veroboard (strip) before.. I want to give perf a try ... For vero I use the left over leads from components... But I'm having trouble finding the correct wire to buy from mouser for longer runs of wire... mainly because English isn't my native language. Any mouser number you can recommend for 22 or 22 AWG that's solid, tinned and bare ?
    Saludos from México.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Don't have a Mouser number for you, but for longer runs I use some 22 AWG solid core wire and just strip the insulation off it. It's actually leftover wire from a garage door opener. haha

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Haha. OK... I'll just use some old analog phone line cable that I ripped out of my mom's house... Yes .
      It's that old

      Delete
  11. is there any chance of building a mad professor snow white auto wah and a zvex machine in the future?

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  12. Thank you so much for this site! I've built a Timmy and Wampler Ecstasy so far--first crack at etching my own pcb's. One thing to note--as far as offboard wiring is concerned, I wasn't able to get my pedals working until I changed the grounding to the input jack instead of the output and ran an additional grounding wire from the input jack to the output jack. For some reason I couldn't get mine to work when grounding at the output jack. Maybe this is something obvious I'm missing, but in case somebody else is having trouble, making this wiring change is worth a shot.

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    1. thank you thank you thank you so much! this worked for me as well, I'd debugged the hell out of a simple circuit (the One Knob Fat Fuzz, which I'd built a few days ago and installed into a guitar with no problems at all) and nothing seemed to be the matter... anyone care to explain or speculate why this has happened? it doesn't seem to change much in the way of what's grounded and what isn't...

      Delete
  13. Greeting.
    I'm planning on building my own crunchbox and I want to ask you a question. Should I use only 5mm red led, or is it possible to replace it with the other ones?
    My best regard

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    Replies
    1. Any diode will work there, it will just sound slightly differently than the original. Your best bet is to socket the diodes and try out several different ones to find what you like.

      Delete
  14. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    1. How to know of type capacitor to use. For example tantalum or ceramic?
      Sorry for this question, but sometimes seems confused to me.

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    2. Cap type is generally up to you, however green caps are film, yellow caps are ceramic (unless indicated otherwise, or a value greater than 1µF), and black/grey caps are electrolytics.

      Delete
  15. Hi everybody…
    Super super website… Thanks very much for your fantastic job !
    I'm making now my own PCB, so this web site is wonderful for me ! Thanks thanks thanks thanks

    ReplyDelete
  16. Hey nice website
    I used your layout for the eqd hummingbird, and Bigfoot magnavibe, both work fine, thanks...
    Btw what software are you using for your layouts?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks man, and thanks for verifying the Hummingbird. I use DIYLC and some photoshop. Here's a time lapse video I made of me drawing up a layout to get an idea of how I do it.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFniAgBTXnY

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  17. Finally , thanks for this and for the creator of this site and for the layout ...
    Thank you @effectslayouts
    Have a wonderful day 👍👍👍👍👍

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  18. I Love Perfect & Pcb Effects layouts......wonderfull

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  19. Hi guys, beautiful website, thank you very much, I wonder if you have any of the PCB's in CAD format???

    And if so where can i find them, for now specifically the Earthquaker Devices - Hoof Fuzz... as well as a part list,I know it's on the board but it's easiest to order parts from a list (to me).

    thanks.

    Monty from South Africa.

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  20. I'm looking for Gerber files

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  21. This web site is amazing! Hey, can you do the boss acoustic simulator?

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  22. Hi, nice website, i'm getting ready to make my first project.

    I wanna know in this layout where is LED and resistor (in the green part). 3PDT is on the red part, right?

    http://imgur.com/a/siRja

    Here is a clean image

    http://i.imgur.com/bTosOeS.png

    Thanks

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  23. Humm, thanks. Where is the + and - and where i put the ground?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ground goes to the pad labeled ground in the layout (connects to the sleeve of the in and/or out jack) and the negative side of the LED is indicated by the flat side (also indicated in the layout).

      Delete
  24. Hi, you're creating the best layouts i've ever seen, which program do you use for it? And can you say, how do you do drilling templates?

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    Replies
    1. I use DIYLC and photoshop (mostly for the ground fill) for the layouts, and then photoshop again for the drilling templates.

      Delete
  25. Hey man, your site , and the fact that you take the time to post and create all this is amazing. i started about a year ago and still cant understand 90 percent of what im doing so you must be a super smart guy. I must say youve got to be the most patient person as well, how many times do you think youve been asked where to hook up he output wire, or how do i wire the 3pdt, or led. not once have i ever read a comment from you that wasnt polite telling them to read offboard wiring. lol it would prob get under my skin after the 500th time, knowing that there is a whole section on all these questions. Any way ive gone stricktly to making pcbs and not messing with perf, the boards always look amazing but im having troulbe bc there is so much ground fill if i barely flow to much solder ive had several builds get ruined when this happens, ill try to wick it up and before i know it ive pulled a pad off or created another solder bridge. Ive tried photoshop and DIYLC but hoping you could tell me how i could reduce ground fill to give me a little wiggle room if a little to much solder flows. Im trying but just not that great at soldering. For example tonepads layouts, and on your site, lovepedal eternity, dan armstrong orange squeezer. Id be very greatful but i iunderstand if there isnt a simple way of doing this. 90 percent of my internet time is spend on your site. Thank you sincerly for all the work u do.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for the kind words man, I really appreciate it. Sorry you're having trouble with the ground fill. I occasionally too will just get way too much solder and short a few pads. There's not really a good way to adapt the existing layouts to have less ground fill other than redrawing them in DIYLC. Aside from that, your best bet is to just practice soldering. If you're not already, make sure you're using an iron with a fine tip and small diameter solder (I think I use 0.031", but don't remember off the top of my head). When I first started out I was using like 1/8" diameter solder and a fairly large tip (and I was trying to build on stripboard too) and things just did not go well.

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  26. im gonna get some thinner solder, i just got a soldering station, its a cheapo Yihua 936, but its way nicer than any of the pencil soldering irons ive had, few were more than twice as much as it cost, and were supposedly variable wattage. After doing some research i think i need one of those calibration tools bc within 10 seconds of turning it on the tip will take solder. I find so many different things ppl say, im reading now not to use regular sponges only ones made for soldering bc there are chemicals , ie soap and whatnot on reg sponges, i prob need to go ahead with a real dremel and the press accessory bc im drilling by hand, and my etches are really good, but its hard to get every single hole perfect. Think im gonna take couple weeks off from the hobby bc its become an obsession and there are so many tools and parts needed. At first i just wanted to make a pedal. Now ive gotten to were if im gonna do it i want it look professional as well. Im stuck on the EarthQuaker Devices Hummingbird. I love how it sounds and want so bad to have a working clone. Next etch will be my 7th one, they all look good but the sectiion where the npn and jfet pads are all in a row i cannot get past getting some over flow. I need a socket for the t0-18 package of 2n2646 transistor to, ive been using single sip sockets, and get them in straight but the first one i built i was getting a clean signal, level pot was working, and if i pressed down on the 2n2646 ud hear some trem for like 1 second then it would go away. Anyway, im gonna take some time and try to see if i can do a layout and space it out just a tad bit for the npn and jfet, i dont have to have sockets on those. and the unijunction tranny has plenty of space. Anyway thanks for reply. I dont think ive seen any pics of a clone of the hummingbird, if i have some luck ill post my pick. if not guess ill go back to the fuck it approach and just start wicking away solder til it works, with 6 populated boards, without trannys, but w sockets im sure i can make one of them work. just wont be as pretty as i want it to be.

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  27. Hi, just another noob question : with this layout, is the DC input suitable for "boss style" power plant (negative pin) ? I would like to start a project but would be really disappointed ruining everything just because of a wrong 9V DC understanding ! :)
    Thanks by the way, this blog is really killer !

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yep, a center negative power supply works with all the effects on the blog unless otherwise stated.

      Delete
  28. What is the best way to scale the non-PDF layouts to make sure they print the right size? (360 Bass Fuzz for example)

    Thanks,and thanks for the site, really enjoying going through abd seeing whats inside these boxes!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. There is a PDF for the 360:

      https://www.dropbox.com/s/v1st9psoxemkzd8/Moosapotamus%20360%20Fuzz.pdf?dl=0

      If there weren't, you'd have to use photoshop and use the perf side to scale each pad to a 0.1" grid. A real pain haha!

      Delete
    2. Awesome! I missed that in my search!

      Cheers!

      Delete
  29. Hello, i´ve made the green russian muff, but i see taht it doesn´t have the out in the pcb board. How can i wire it?
    all is connected as you show.
    Hope u can help me. I´m new on this.
    Greetings!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. and the image say "Volume 2 to out"
      it refer to the out in the 3pdt switch?

      Delete
  30. Hello, you make an excellent work over here, I hope this site to grow much more.

    I have a question, for example, on pedals as the triton delay or the kay t-1 tremolo, where should I connect the LED negatives? I don't get them to sound :(

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  31. Hello!! Where can I submit a Layout? No Contact section :/

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  32. what specific audio jack will I use in the input and output signal is it mono or stereo??

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  33. Ayuda sobre la guia de transistores, es correcta la hubicacion de CBE, he notado que algunos estan alñ reves o es correcta la imagen??

    SALUDOS.

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  34. Help on the transistor guide, CBE hub is correct, I noticed that some are back or is the image correct ??

    GREETINGS.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I think google translate might be failing us on this one. As far as I know, that image is correct.

      Delete
  35. Hi, thanks for this very helpful page! Why the diagonal jumper on the footswitch, from top left to bottom middle lug?

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    Replies
    1. That grounds the effect when it's bypassed. That way no unwanted noise from the effect bleeds into the bypassed signal.

      Delete
  36. Thanks for the reply, I didn't realise that

    ReplyDelete
  37. Thanks for posting all these great layouts! So much faster than me struggling with Eagle and schematics lol! Any chance you'd have schematics or layouts planned for the Lovepedal Super Six SRV mod? Thanks again for all your hard work on this site.
    ~ Kelly

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for the kind words. :) If you can find a schem of the SRV mod, I'm more than happy to do a layout.

      Delete
  38. Thanks for an awesome site! Got me back into electronics. Question..For your PCBlayouts, what pots does the pinspacing fit, 16mm(whatever it is in imperial) pots, 8mm pcbpots, or something else? Cheers!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad you dig it! 16mm pots unless otherwise stated.

      Delete
  39. Howdy - quick question about your layouts: polarized capacitors, such as a 47 uf, are drawn by you with a large circle and a grey line on 1 side... can you confirm the grey line indicates the "-" side?

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  40. Hi, that's a great place! I have one doubt about the colors used in the layouts, what does indicate orange? It insn't voltage path?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Orange often indicates 18v. Gold indicates 1/2 voltage (Vref).

      Delete
    2. Thank you very much! I find the use of different colors very helpful. I've decided to use low impedance electrolytic caps for those ones in the voltage path and ELNA/Nichicon audio series for the ones in the audio signal path. Does it make a difference in guitar stompboxes? So far I don't know, let's see.

      Delete
  41. How to distinguish the type of electronic components on the circuit diagram?
    I probably know the difference between shape and color. I only see the resistance, the diode, and so on. I can't tell the other. Can you teach me to understand it? I am very interested in this!!

    I am from Taiwan. English is not good. This article was written using Google translation. If the grammar or grammar is wrong, please forgive me!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The small blue components with Ω, K, or M values are resistors. Diodes are generally a similar size as the resistors, but black with a great polarity marker. As for capacitors, film capacitors are green, ceramic are yellow, tantalum are a little darker yellow (but not used all that much), and electrolytic are black with a grey polarity marker. Trim potentiometers are larger blue squares, transistors are black semi-circles, and ICs are black rectangles with grey legs. Hope that helps!

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    2. This really helps me very much, thank you very much!!

      Delete
    3. I am sorry to disturb you again. Will the four rounded gray rectangles have write capacitance values ​​on them, which is the kind of parts? In addition, does the voltage value of the capacitors have any influence on the system?

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    4. If they have capacitances values on them, they are capacitors. If they are rounded and one of the sides is gray, then it's an electrolitic cap.
      The voltage value of capacitors does not have serious influence on the system as well as resistors wattage value neither does, but considering that effects are 9, 12 or 18 V circuits, try to use the lower voltage caps. 1/4 W resistors will go fine also.
      The actual issue you may have with larger values is the size of the component, which will limit you the available distribution of space on the PCB for other components.
      Hope it helps! Just built a Catalinbread RAH with the layout from this page and worked fine!

      Delete
  42. I am working on your Osh Park Engineer's Thumb layout and have a question about the 3mm LEDs' polarity. You write above that indicator side of a diode is the square pad; what does that mean in terms of an LED? If this was a standard clipping pair like in many distortions, I would not worry about it too much, but I do not want to get this one wrong.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. With LEDs square pads still indicate the indicator (the flat side of the LED). In other words, the short leg of the LED goes in the square pad.

      Delete
  43. My favourite site by far !!! I've just started with my first pedal, MI audio crunch box. Next will be Spark mini and Scarab Deluxe.
    I was wondering if Darkglass B3k could be on the list ! Thank you very much, you make happy a lot of us !

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  44. If I may ask another question about the Osh Park Engineer's Thumb: are the '+' pad at the top of the board and the '9V' pad at the bottom of the board interchangeable, i.e., can either one be used to supply power to the board? I am using a top-mounted power jack soldered to the '+' and '–' pads and planned on using the lower '9V' pad at the bottom to connect to a 3PDT switch with a CLR/LED PCB connections; will this work?

    ReplyDelete
  45. Hi, this is a great site. Thank you very much for your work on this site. I am new at electronics. I don't understand what kind of capacitors (ceramic, film etc) I need to take when looking at these diagrams. I think their color gives a hint about that. But i don't know how. If your could help with this situation, I would greatly appreciate it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Green = film, yellow = ceramic, black = electrolytic, grey = box film. Hope that helps!

      Delete
  46. Hello, finally I'm gonna solder my first ever pedal, thanks for your work!
    Quick question about off board wiring, in the 3PDT switch should i solder a cable between lug 1 and 6?
    Also, can you check the photo, should that work? If not what can I do to fix it, or should I make another PCB?
    https://imgur.com/a/pShG9Fe
    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yeah a piece of wire or a trimmed off leg from a resistor or capacitor will work fine between lugs 1 and 6.

      I’d take a hobby knife to that top left bit and just make sure it’s not shorting. A digital multimeter is good to check that sort of thing.

      Best of luck with your first build!

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    2. And what about the bottom one, is that okay?

      Delete
  47. Thank you very much man, love your work and keep on doing it!

    ReplyDelete
  48. Hi, I wonder if there is a general layout diagram for me to check out for how to connect the Pots on these, I'm wanting to build the Analogue man fuzz but not sure which points should go to the pots and how to cross connect them, any help would be much appreciated.

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  49. sir is that mono jack ?? and what about the sleeve of the input jack ?? do i just leave it disconnected ?? thanx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Both input and output jacks can be mono if you're not using a battery. If you're using a stereo jack and no battery, just leave the sleeve unconnected.

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    2. sir i use a power supply for all my circuit not a battery, and i use a mono jack, but the output guitar sound come from one side of the speakers, only the left side, and thats really upset me, please how can i fix that

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    3. So you're running mono signal into a stereo amplifier? Doing that is only going to get you sound from one side like you're experiencing. To get sound from both speakers you'll need to use a splitter of some kind to get your mono signal to both left and right channels.

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    4. what if start use stereo jack instead of mono jack, will i get the sound from the both side ?? sorry man if i ask too many question XD and thank you man

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    5. If you use a stereo jack and connect the sleeve and top lugs together and use a stereo cable then it would work.

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    6. your mean i connect both of the ring and the sleeve leg to the ground in the circuit board ??

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    7. No. Ring to ground, sleeve and tip to output

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    8. oh man , okay thats what i should do to the output jack, shall i do that to the input jack too, or i just use a mono jack in the input and stereo in the output

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    9. Just leave the input jack as mono.

      Delete
    10. okay, i will build the Jack Deville Boost Tiger tomorrow and i will try doing that and hope that will work, thank you very much man, you rock

      Delete
  50. Hi! I am just confused to where the sleeve of the input jack go. Do I just connect it to the ground? Thanks

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    Replies
    1. If you're using an aluminum enclosure and your jacks don't have plastic insulating the sleeve from the enclosure, the jack sleeves will be connected to each other through the enclosure. I generally double check that with a multimeter, but I've never had that not work.

      Delete
  51. Hi, i just want to ask what are the values (voltages) or ratings for the components like capacitors(especially), diodes etc. In the BOM it stated only the farad for capacitors for instance. I'm planning to build your switchback delay, maybe you can help me with this one. Thanks and great blog by the way. Continue sharing, more power.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Generally the layouts are designed for 1/4 watt resistors and for caps, they should be rated higher than the supply voltage. For electrolytic caps I recommend going with at least 25v (seen a few lower rated caps explode even at 9v) and for film and ceramic caps, most of the ones in my stash are a minimum 50v. Hope that helps

      Delete
    2. Thank you very much for a quick reply,just one more question if you will, can i replace the footswitch with your incandenza bypass switch or do i need to stick with the one provided on the layout (switchback delay). Thanks once again and have a nice day.

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    3. The Switchback is set up for buffered tails bypass so the Incandenza isn't a direct drop in as it would be for true bypass. If this is one of your first builds I'd stick with the provided switching before trying to hack in the Incandenza.

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    4. Thank you very much, have a nice day. Great works. :)

      Delete
  52. What I mean is the sleeve of the input jack in the off board wiring diagram image is not connected to anything. Is it connected to the ground?

    ReplyDelete
  53. Hello, is it possible for you to make the goodwood audio interfacer or something like that? Many thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  54. Thanks for sharing, i want to ask about sleeve from input female jack, where it goes to? ground?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It goes to ground through the aluminium case (if it is a non plastic jack), he already answered this several times

      Delete
  55. Hi there,
    I'm making a rangemaster clone using PNP OC44 transistors. I was wondering if I should reverse the ground and 9v connections to the DC jack or would the wiring be the same as your off board wiring diagram here. If the wiring is the same do I just need to buy a positive centre power supply?
    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  56. Hi! I'm really noob to DIY pedals so maybe this is a dumb question but I want to be sure. If I want to use a footswitch with an integrated LED light and remove the LED you have connected to the footswitch, I just have to ignore the LED and its resistor and don't wire those footswitch pins? Or do I have to wire up 9V and GND to the footswitch? Or should I change the 3PDT to another model? Thank you so much!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The ones like that I've seen you wire pretty much the same as the diagram, just the LED is built into the switch. So you still need to hook up a resistor from 9v to the LED+, the LED- to pin 4, and pin 5 to ground.

      Delete
  57. I'm looking at the sunndering pedal and was curious about the footswitch wiring..just wiring to the according lugs any extra ground or hampering needed?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. A 3PDT daughterboard is shipped with each board (unless I run out). So all you need to do is wire the corresponding pads from the main board to the 3PDT board.

      Delete
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  59. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  60. This site is amazing. It's sparked an interest in learning more about electronics. Thank you!

    As a relative newcomer, some things are a bit confusing. I was able to successfully create a functioning NPN Fuzz Face pedal. I wired it up to a 9v battery and it works well. However, when I wire up a barrel jack and attempt to power it with a 9v center negative power supply, it doesn't work. I'm using this barrel jack:

    https://imgur.com/a/lXTINCP

    I wired up what is labeled as "ground" on this schematic to the ground of the circuit and what as labeled as "positive" on the schematic to the 9v of the circuit. Is that wrong? Should I wire it based on your image on this page? Because based on that, it looks like the connections differ between your image and the one on the schematic for the part I bought. Maybe I'm entirely missing the mark here as a new builder.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for the kind words and welcome! The jack you linked to is labeled for a center positive supply. If you wire it up like in the wiring diagram it should work fine.

      Delete
    2. Thank you so much for a lighting fast response!

      I'm going to pick up some PCBs to support you. Very much appreciated your "Make A Difference" link.

      Delete
  61. I have a question. why is the input jack without ground? (on layout)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Check the General Layout Notes. He's answered this one quite a few times already. As long as you're using a metal enclosure and the jack isn't plastic, it's grounded via the enclosure.

      Delete
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    1. Dang! New to posting here. I bought the Corn Cob PCB from the store, but then I noticed that there is no Build Doc included on the site. Is this intentional or oversight? Thanks, and please keep doing what you're doing. It's great for us noobs getting into pedal building. Your PCBs are so helpful, I may just build em all!

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    2. Oh, and there seems to be a discrepancy in values of the input caps between the schematic and the build doc for the UltraLectra. Can you clarify? I'd love to finish it up. Thanks again.

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    3. The Corn Cobb doesn't have a build doc as all values are on the PCB and the drill template is the same as the one on the blog. For the UltraLectra, C1 is 10n and C2 is 1µ.

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  63. Apologies if this has been answered before - I skimmed over these posts and couldn't find any mention. I just purchased a transmogrifying repeater PCB recently and am wondering if there are any tap tempo mods (like the taptation) that would work with this circuit. I've never done a tap tempo addition before so and advice (or in the very least a "no, don't, it won't work") would be apprecaited! Thanks!

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    1. I haven't built anything with the Taptation chip, but I've heard it's pretty hit or miss. I've yet to see a really good application of tap tempo in the DIY space for delay. I'm not sure how the Taptation would even play with the Transmog. Rep, especially with the modulation it has.

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  64. Hi,, newbie here, wanna built some effect base from your schematic & layout,
    my question so general but i need to ask you.
    So, about the input socket, i don't know function sleeve there, can you explain?
    input have 1 cable and output have two cable connection, it s really work?
    maybe you have any video for tutorial explain wiring, let me know
    thanks!

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  66. Are all noj ploar capacitor work same? Or diffrent.
    I mean i see people use polyser polypropelene ceramic


    If i use all capacitor ceramic instead of other will there be any difference?

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    1. The main difference is the material used to create the capacitance. Many will argue that film sound better than ceramic. Personally, I don't hear a difference and think it has to do more with the tolerances of the capacitors you use. Those with higher tolerances have a greater chance of sounding "bad" because while it might be rated at 100nF it could actually be 80nF or 120nF depending on the tolerance. At the end of the day, build with what you want and make it sound good to your ears.

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  67. U spoke like mother merry spoke words of wisdom..i get what u mean..

    Its just that in my locality there are only mostly ceramic cap

    I have heard ceramic cap can sometimes act as mic..

    I have never encountered that though



    I guess red candy cbb cap are better than green cap
    Green caps are better than ceramic
    Due to tolorance



    :)

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  68. @Effects Layouts, Hi! I am wondering why the C7 Capacitor (47nF) on the SunnBeam is such a small value for a component on the signal path compared to others in the circuit (2.2UF NP, for example). Best regards!

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    1. By the way...does the SunnBeam comes with a 3PDT daughterboard? Thanks!

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    2. That's just the value used in the original Sunn Beta. Feel free to tweak it to your preference. And yes, it comes with the footswitch board.

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  69. Hi David, I found on the website El34 a schematic for building a guitar tuner, could you add a perf / pcb for that? I have already mounted some 40 pedals here successfully !!!

    https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Effects/Telray_fastune.pdf

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  70. I can find 78l05(transistor type) and 7805(mosfet type)

    Which sud i use for delay and other stuff?



    Which wud be better
    Since 78l05 dont have any headsink attackment hole will it cause problem?

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    1. I've pretty much exclusively used the smaller T0-92 package regulators, but either package should work fine.

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  72. I buy electrolytic in packs.. so i have lot of 3.3uf 33uf 330uf

    What can i do with them?

    Can i keep 330uf instead of 47uf power cap?


    What can i use 3.3uf for?

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  73. Hello! Thank you for your wonderful website. Is there any way of submitting requests for layouts?

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  74. Is there a AB pedal switch layout with led?

    Like jhs does in his video to compare pedals???

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