Monday, September 12, 2016
Suhr Riot
Gotten a few requests for this one. The Riot distortion from Suhr is built around 2, dual opamps (4580 in originals, but others can be used) with several clipping options for a great high gain experience. You can pretty much use whatever diodes you want, but it's laid out for 2 LEDs always clipping, with the option of adding either 3, 1N4148s in asymmetrical orientation or 4, 1N34s in series. You can also try replacing D4 with a 1N4148 (I've included pads for that on the PCB), or changing the color of the LEDs. Really, just experiment with what you have on hand and chose what sounds best to you.
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Amazing i like it
ReplyDeleteTHE BE(A)ST DISTORTION PEDAL EVER!
ReplyDeleteAWESOME!
Oh man! it's verified. I like the sound.
ReplyDeleteAwesome! That was quick.
DeleteMade it im 4 hours including the etching. Now going for the triton delay. I'm going to verify it.
Deletehi , please can tell me some substitute for the 4580?
ReplyDeletegreetings from italy
rc/jrc/lm/njm/.../4558
Deletela6358
la6458
lm833
ne5532
op270
mc1458
and many many others should work just fine
just stick and experiment
thank you so much for your fast reply
DeleteHello, I've found missing 2 holes on the solder side of the perf board for 4001.(polarity protection?)
ReplyDeleteAdding these 2 holes, now I am populating my board.
Thank you for all great layouts here, especially reflecting actual size of each compnent.
Thank you for posting this amazing pedal .. any suggestions for 8.25K and 11.K Resistors ? Seams not be common values. And just to confirm the 1uF Cap is an Electrolic NP ? Or a Tantalum is prefered??
ReplyDeleteFor me I'd just series some resistor closer to the required values (i.e 10K+1K=11K). For 1uF cap, you can use film cap (box type).
ReplyDeleteThank you for the response. I just finish this build, sounds really great, some mods: 11.3 -> 2 x 5.6K, red leds 3mm, and in the mean time i got my 4580, i used TL072 and work perfect. i love the sound of this pedal.
DeleteIs the switch and on/on/on?https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UT8lzezXhhcXXagOFbXs/121077958/UT8lzezXhhcXXagOFbXs.jpg this?
ReplyDeleteand its wiring?
The switch can be on/on, on/off/on, or on/on/on. On/off/on would be the option I would go with though. Refer to the General Layout Notes for switch numbering guide. You should be able to figure out the wiring from that.
DeleteOh Hi, Sorry for the late response. I've been involved in a car crash accident, being in a coma, and finally getting back to this diy passion. And, I made the pedal, but it didn't turn on lol
DeleteI can´t find this project in the transfer library, where can i find it?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
It's in the Misc folder. If there's only one layout from a manufacturer/designer, it's in there.
Deletethanks!!!
DeleteJust finished building and noodling around with it. It sounds awesome! Really nice full sounding high gain madness. I found the 34a's not really working in this context so I changed them to 2n7000's. Those sound awesome in this pedal. Thanks again for another brilliant PCB. I really love the compact yet roomy layout of this one. Great work!!
ReplyDelete2n7000 is a transistor right? how would you lay it out in the circuit board?
DeleteMosfet clipping is very popular in overdrives, like OCD and many others.
DeleteYou just connect gate and drain of your mosfet and use it like a diode - input wire goes to "G+D" output from "S"
Theres some very specific resistor values on there. How important are they or for the 11.3k can I just use a 12k?
ReplyDelete12k works fine, and the more common 8.2 instead of the rather specific 8.25 too.
DeleteDo you have any substitute for 1N43a's? They are hard to find locally, at least to where I live
ReplyDeleteYou can use pretty much whatever diodes you want in this. In place of the 1N34As you could use 1N270, 1N60P, or any other germanium diode you can find. But it doesn't necessarily need to be germanium. You could use schottky diodes like the BAT41 or 43. Lots of options. Socket and experiment with what you can find.
DeleteHere's mine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6ke6raNlmw
ReplyDeleteRandom germaniums from an old radio, measuring about 0.3v dropoff each, 1n4148s and red LEDs.
Sounds great man!
Deletedid you use a one TL072CP or two?
DeleteWhere I can find the transfer in the library? thanks
ReplyDeleteIt's in the misc folder
DeleteHey,I built this pedal, and im having some weird isue, outside the box without 3pdt sounds amazing, but when I wired the switch this add a lots of noise, hum and other noises... something that without the switch never happend. I used coated wire, and grounded input... plus this isnt my first build, i made already a bunch of high gain pedals without this trouble... tryed many different switches, dpdt to.. but always the same---
ReplyDeleteHave you solved the hiss issue?
DeleteKok sama ya om.permasalahanya?:)
DeleteKok sama ya om.permasalahanya?:)
DeleteIn MarkGor scheme there is 470R and 220R resistors before clipping diodes... Is there reason why it is left out here?
ReplyDeleteHey, I built this and it sounds good. But there is a significant volume drop when the pedal is engaged. I am using 4558's and 1n914's instead of 1n34a. Does the volume drop pertain to either of these substitutions?
ReplyDeleteI am having the volume drop whenever engage the 4148's or 1n34a's. Center position on the switch is loud and proud. Either side is quieter and with a little bit more noise. I wonder if anyone else is experiencing this.
DeleteI have the same issue... not sure if there is a problem, I think it's because of the LEDs, they tend to be louder in my experience, which is only about 20 pedals. I've had the same issue with other designs that use LEDs and other diodes to switch between for clipping. I subbed the LEDS with 1N4001 and the volume drop is more subtle
Deletecan i change 1n34a with 1n4148? is it still the same orientation on the layout? thanks in advance
ReplyDeleteOrientation is the same, but the sound will be a little different from the original.
Deletethanks man..thats all i want to hear.. i know 34a's sucks up the volume on this i dont want that to happen.. any suggestion as a replacemnt for 34a in effect that it cant affect the volume output? i will be much appreciated..tia
DeleteHow do you connect SW1 , SW2 and SW3? My guess is that SW1 is the common and SW2 and SW3 are selected with a 3 position switch. Any help will be apretiated .
ReplyDeleteRefer to the General Layout Notes tab at the top of the page.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
Deleteсхема: http://ccwo.hatenablog.jp/entry/2018/01/26/193513
DeleteMan! This thing is amazing!! I substituted the 34a's for some random zeners after socketing them, just more to my taste. This is by far one of the most versatile high gain pedals I've built. It's so in your face that it's hard not to love it! I also subbed the red LEDs for a white and blue, that's my go to, though it doesn't make a huge difference. This will be on my pedal board for a long time for sure! It's a step up from the 10 ton hammer that I was using and loved.
ReplyDeleteIs this for 9v only or can you use it with 18v like the original?
ReplyDeleteAs long as you use components rated high enough it should be fine for 18v
DeleteGood good, which schematic did you use?
ReplyDeleteMine did not work ... he gets interfering because of the GND but he's not passing the positive signal. Can someone help me? if anybody has any idea what can be please help me.
ReplyDeleteWhat schematic did you use?
ReplyDeleteIs anybody have schematic of suhr shiba drive? please, let me know!
ReplyDeleteHi!! thanks for this layout! Just building and it works, but I have a question, with the switch in the centrer position (SPDT on-off-on) red diodes lighs, but when I turn it on in either position red diodes turn off and volume drop a lot. I dont know if that is the normal way or red diodes should light in all position of the switch.
ReplyDeleteAgain, thanks al lot for this and all these layout!!
already solved!
DeleteThanks
hi... pbr pbr :) i have same problem with my build. can you please tell me how you solved the problem? Thanks for your help.
DeleteIs anybody have schematic of suhr shiba drive? please, let me know.Thanks.
ReplyDeletethanks for this! i'm building it right now. Q: all pot's are linear o log? do you have the schematics? i cant find it, kind regards, paulo.
ReplyDeleteHi, I cant find the file on the transfer image library.
ReplyDeleteSchematics anyone?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteDoes the red LED need to stay on glowing?
ReplyDeletesorry about my English.
No, they're just be used as clipping diodes. If they light up it's fine, but it's not necessary for the circuit to function.
DeleteYou would have the scheme of this circuit.
ReplyDeleteIt is generating a lot of noise with high gain.
Hi, does somebody know if another kind of pot could work for tone? reverse log are not easy to find here in Venezuela, almost impossible. Thank you
ReplyDeleteA linear taper will work, just might not quite have the right sweep. You can also use a log taper pot and wire it backwards. Sweep will be as the original, but backwards as far as pot rotation.
DeleteMight built this one. The schem looks awesome .. thumbs up for this one
ReplyDeleteHi I've seen that the reloaded uses an on / on / on switch instead of a spdt switch. Is there a way please to connect a 3-step on / on / on switch?
ReplyDeleteHello all!
ReplyDeleteCan you guys tell me what is the 1uF? Is it an electrolytic capacitor? I don't see the polarization and the symbol is not common for me.
Cheers!
That's a box film cap. It's not-polarized. I get them here:
Deletehttps://www.taydaelectronics.com/1uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor-jfj.html
I just finished building this and it sounds AMAZING!!! Thank you so much!!
ReplyDeleteSame here! This curcuit sounds great..i used a rotary switch for the clip.
ReplyDeleteMore power!
Awesome, quietest distortion pedal ever built. used 1N160s in lieu of 1N34A. Very loud. Thanks once again.
ReplyDeletei love this site,thank you so much for share
ReplyDelete