The great thing about the Faux Spring Reverb is that it retains the Analog base tone, doesn’t send your signal through digital/analog converters and back again (wrecking your tone completely) allowing you to be as springy as you like without your sound becoming lifeless, dull and… well, bad. With the tone control, you can control your sound completely and have your reverb be as bright as day, or dark as night… As lively and bright as a small hall, or as deep as the biggest cathedrals.
Edit: I realized this afternoon that the Depth pot would hit the Belton brick, so I've changed it to a 9mm pot and it will clear the brick. The whole thing will be really snug, but it should be doable.
This looks very nice and neat - again. Is there a chance you post the related schematic (or a link)? Thanks
ReplyDeleteThanks! Here's the schem (ignore the green lines)
Deletehttp://postimg.org/image/pwhr0u519/
Wow - that was quick! Thanks a lot!
DeletePlease Can you bring the schematic back. Thanks in advance
Deletehttp://guitar-gear.ru/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=40864
Deletehi, which BTDR-2H sounds better in this pedal? short, medium or long brick?
ReplyDeleteI haven't built it, but I would guess the long brick will be best. That's what I would use anyway.
Deletethanks brother.
Deletecan I use 78L05?
ReplyDeleteYep. That'll work fine!
DeleteIs this verified? Thnx!
ReplyDeleteI am interested in modding my current Faux Reverb tone control to be darker and brighter when dimed. Is that possible? Are there any other mods I can do to my pedal?
ReplyDeleteMark it verified dude. Very nice, sounds great, big hall reverb or subtle touches and everything in between, nice controls. Going straight to the pool room.
ReplyDeleteOne suggestion, maybe mark the pins of the 7805 for orientation. I was happy to look it up but for ease of use for the next bloke.
Thanks again for this and all the other layouts man!
Ah, I missed that. Normally I do mark the pins. Thanks for verifying
DeleteTL061 for TL071?
ReplyDeletePreferably 71 but the 61 would probably work
DeleteWould a TL071CP and TL072CP work?
DeleteYes those are fine.
Deletecould you please check whether the 220uF, the one near tl071, is oriented correctly?
ReplyDeletethanks bro
Nice catch. It was flipped backwards, but I've updated the image above.
Deleteawesome!
DeleteHi everyone,
ReplyDeleteJust building this and I'm a little bit worried about where to wire the pots.
Do they really share some holes as the 100k and 100r resistors ?
Shade and Level pots don't have anything wired to their lung Nr 2 ?
Thanks for your help !
None of the layouts on this blog will have components sharing holes. This layout is for board mounted pots, so the Shade pot is mounted to the 3 pads between the 1µF and 22nF caps on the left, the Level pot mounted to the 3 pads just below the 1N4001 diode, and the Depth pot right in the middle at the top of the board.
DeleteAaaah that make so much sense!
DeleteThanks a ton for your quick response, I'm usually used to building on stripboard and am not used to these PCBs.
Thanks again !
Hey!
ReplyDeleteDoes anyone has any clue how to make depht even deeper and shade even darke/bighter?
+1
Deletescheme please.... (
ReplyDeleteJ201 reemplacement????
ReplyDelete2N5457 would probably work
DeleteI can confirm it works, have one in mine. Great layout - thanks. Love all the Wampler stuff - how about a Black 65?!
DeleteIs there any way the "top" of the board could be printed without the trace lines, and reversed, so that a toner-transfer could be made to the top side of the board as well? It would be pretty epic to be able to have a matching diagram for the top.
ReplyDeleteHi... need a heatsink in 7805?
ReplyDeleteIt's not necessary.
DeleteIs there any particular reason why there are multiple ground connections on the perimeter of the board? Is it for grounding jacks and switches?
ReplyDeleteYep
DeleteHaha many thanks, that saves a lot of off-board wiring :)
DeleteWhich pot i can replace C100k ?
ReplyDeleteThank you.
it looks like I would like to have a bit more level!!!! Maybe if I could take it to 12 instead of 10!!! Is there any mod??
ReplyDeleteTHNX in advance!
all ok! I just put a 68K instead of 6K8 cause I didnot see the dot on the layout!!!!
DeleteAn old man's problems! LOL
I printed the drill layout but it became smaller than my 1590b!!!!
ReplyDeleteMake sure your print settings are at "Actual Size" (or 100% depending on what program you're printing from) and not "Fit".
DeleteWhich pot i can replace C100k ?
DeleteThank you.
Pinout 7805 and the same as the 78L05?
ReplyDeleteShould be, but google to check ;)
DeletePinout 7805 and inverted, compared to 78L05, but Pinout is correct for 78l05.
DeleteThank you
works very well, beautiful reverb.
Not sure so I need to ask. This is my first build with your layouts. Are all three legs soldered in? I see there is a space for them. I just want to make sure. Thnx for the great site:)
ReplyDeleteYep, all three.
DeleteGreat work
ReplyDeleteCan I ask for schematic? The link you posted in earlier comment doesn't work
Here you go:
Deletehttp://freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=23339&mode=view
You'll need to log into FSB
Thanks
DeleteI built it, sounds great! Except I noticed one thing that really bothers me. When a note (or notes) are held, after a fraction of a second, the effect signal pans slightly around the dry signal, making an extremely light but noticeable chorus-sounding effect. I don't know if this is just part of the effect, or if it's a problem that can be fixed, but it seems more accentuated on my pedal. Any thoughts or potential solutions would be appreciated!
ReplyDeleteSounds like you're describing the modulation that's built into the BTDR-2. I think it comes from the clocks in the 3, PT2399s that are inside it. Read that somewhere on the Madbean forum... I think. The modulation my be less pronounced in the short length bricks.
DeleteI just build this, I totally agree it sounds amazing. I wanted to add my 2 cents because I tried both a long and medium chip. I definitely hear the modulation you were talking of more pronounced in the long chip. I personally like the medium for that reason. The modulation is still there very subtly if you're listening for it, but it's more of a standard spring reverb sound. Going with the medium also didn't seem to cut down on the dwell depth much at all. Thanks for another fantastic layout E.L.! cheers
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi, can I socket a TL072 in place of TL071?
ReplyDeleteNo. The TL072 is a dual op amp, while the TL071 is a single op amp. The pinouts are completely different.
DeleteHello, I would like to add to the profit reverb as in the JHS Reverb Tank, how could I do it? I looked at the Belton website the basic reverb scheme and in the first opamp could you add a couple of diodes in the feedback loop? (there tube screamer)? Thank you
ReplyDeleteSorry, the JHS Tank Reverb doesn't have that option (lol), it has an FX loop (which I find very interesting to know how to add to the Faux Reverb), thanks.
DeleteHi! first of all, i love your site, i've already made the Steel String and its awesome! but with this reverb i'm getting issues... It kinda works, but its like only wet signal (slightly delayed), with low volume and lots of hum... what could it be? maybe grounding? i didn't use all the inboard groundings, some holes are unused... thx!
ReplyDeleteHowdy there Nicolas. I just finished my build on this pedal and it's working fine. But I'm a little obsessed with being slow and neat with my builds now. So... maybe pull out a magnifying glass and look through your PCB traces and see if you have any solder bridging any pads or traces. The solder space on the pots was tight, so check around the legs and pads of the pots.
DeleteI didn't use all of the ground holes either. I have my go-to offboard wiring down now and I run a single ground wire up to the 9v jack (no batteries in my builds) and then another ground wire going from input jack > footswitch > output jack. Being methodical helps me avoid ground loops. But my crazy guess is that you have a problem in the circuit and not a ground loop causing that hum. Without full function and volume there, it sounds like you have something wrong... maybe a bad component in there? Did you socket your IC's and transistors? Maybe try swapping out parts there if you can. I've had some questionable IC's and transistors that I bought from eBay.
There's my 2 cents. Good luck!
Hi Wad, thanks for your answer! y checked the pcb and its ok, but i'm considering your crazy guess, because i soldered one of the ICs without a socket, so i think i may have burnt it.
ReplyDeleteI'm gonna buy more ics and sockets on monday and try another transistor, thanks for the suggestion!!!
No problem man... I hope you get that solved.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi, it´s me again! i've noticed that when i crank the level and depth, or just the level, it kinda gets distorted or humm, like in a non musical way.
ReplyDeleteI've been using the audio probe and traced the problem to the brick, the sound enters clean in the input and exits bad in both outputs.
Maybe its a defective unit? or any circuit problem? i changed the entire pcb to and its still the same.
Greetings!!
Most likely the brick. The BTDR bricks are based around 3, PT2399s which themselves can be a little hit or miss. Easiest solution is to not crank those pots. haha (or try out a different brick)
Deletehaha, i was hoping it could be some grounding issue, the shop insists that it could be the circuit and not a defective unit (i think they won't accept refund or something)
Deleteif not, i think surf rock isn't my thing anyways haha, thanks for the quick answer!
Hey! sorry for bringing this old project up! had fun building this but its not working for me. ive built a good amount of pedals before so i have some knowledge. ive got a feeling its the power part of the diagram. i also had the same issue with the acapulco circuit. my 7660 heats up quite a bit, theres only noise and oscilaates as i turn the knobs, however if i turn the c100k theres some distorted signal that comes through. ive got a feeling its the power part as my electrolytics are 16v so maybe the power part is doing 18v and the caps cant handle it? im not sure! anyways, i would love some help, would be wicked to get this beauty going!
ReplyDeleteIn my version, thers a slight delay from I hit the string of the guitar til I hear a sound.
ReplyDeleteThis should not be so. I use the long ver. brick. Does anybody have an surgestion how i can fix this.
I have the same issue… did you manage to get that fixed?
DeleteI have the same issue… did you manage to get that fixed?
ReplyDelete