This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.

General Layout Notes

I like to keep things neat on circuit boards. That means no standing axial components, no jumpers (unless I can't help it), and no offboard wiring points in the middle of the board.

Pot numbering follows this diagram:



Switch numbering follows this diagram:





For PCB layouts, square pads can indicate several things:
• Positive side of a polarized capacitor
• Indicator side of a diode
• The emitter of a BJT transistor
• The gate of a DSG pinout FET transistor
 • The source of a DGS pinout FET transistor
• Pin 1 of an IC
• Lug 1 of a potentiometer

Larger pads (square or circular) are for offboard wires or board mounted pots, but I don't always have room to make offboard wiring pads larger.

If you're having trouble scaling a PCB transfer image, check out the Transfer Image Library page for pre-scaled PDFs of every PCB transfer image on the site. All you have to do is download the file and print. The files are organized by brand. Those brands that do not have two or more layouts on the site are grouped together in the "Misc." folder.

Some have asked about off board wiring in comments and emails. While there are a lot of different ways to do this (mostly in wiring the footswitch) and lot of different diagrams and info around the internet on the subject, here's how I typically wire up a pedal when using a 3PDT footswitch.


Blue wires indicate audio path, green wires ground, and red wires voltage.

You may notice the input jack doesn't have a wire connecting the sleeve to the other ground points. If you're using an aluminum enclosure and your jacks don't have plastic insulating the sleeve from the enclosure, the jack sleeves will be connected to each other through the enclosure. I generally double check that with a multimeter, but I've never had that not work.

I've shown the DC jack being grounded via the circuit board (mostly to keep the drawing from getting too cluttered), but you can ground it to one of the jack sleeves if you prefer. Also, I almost never include a 9 volt battery snap in my builds, so I left it out of this diagram. If you want to include one, Google is your friend.

This diagram reflects using an off board resistor for LED status indication. This resistor can vary between 2.2k up to 10k (I typically use 4.7k), so use whatever you prefer there. A lot of the layouts on this blog have a resistor for the LED on/off indicator included on the board. In that case, wire the anode (+) of the LED to the appropriate pad on the circuit board. 

57 comments:

  1. Hi there,

    Fantastic website. I tried using the transfer image for the Deep Blue Delay but once it's on the copper it's flipped horizontally compared to the images on the project page. Do I have to manually flip the image before printing it? I notice that Adobe Reader doesn't have a horizontal flip option. I'm just wondering if I've missed something.

    Thank you for all that you do. It's great work and massively appreciated.

    N

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    1. Hey N8,

      Thanks for your kind words, and I'm glad you like the site.

      No need to flip the transfers before printing. The layouts are drawn as if looking from the component side of the board. So if you were to look at the copper side of the board it would have to be mirrored. If you were to mirror the image (flip horizontally) before printing, the pinouts of ICs, transistors, and pots would all be reversed (not too big a deal with transistors and pots, but big trouble with ICs). Hope that helps. Holler if you need any help.

      -storyboardist

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  2. Thank you, Sir.
    This website is a masterpiece. Great contribution to the world!

    Verified: TS808 and Fuzz Factory
    Next: Deluxe Pitch Pirate
    Wishlist: Zvex Instant Lo-Fi Junky

    Best regards.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thank You, for sharing ,,,
    I like your blog.

    next project, please share Metal Zone "BOSS MT2" and any more metal distortions...

    : hehe...

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  4. First of all thank you very much for your sharing
    You are doing a fantastic job
    All my gratitude.
    It would be great if you could share the pcb of the HIMMELSTRUTZ FETTO
    It is a great pedal imho and i'd like to build one, it is too expensive for me to buy
    Thank you very much
    Peter

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  5. I really love this site. Thank you so much.

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  6. Best DIY stompbox site out there, period.
    Will there be more models added to the drilling templates?

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    Replies
    1. Thanks man! Yes, I plan on adding more drilling templates as I have time to do so.

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  7. Have you ever attempted a tuner pedal?

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  8. maybe you could do a layout for powerbrick with multiple output ie.+9v,-9v,12v/18v
    i'm sure many noobs like me would appreciate
    thanks

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  9. Hi ... I've etched and used veroboard (strip) before.. I want to give perf a try ... For vero I use the left over leads from components... But I'm having trouble finding the correct wire to buy from mouser for longer runs of wire... mainly because English isn't my native language. Any mouser number you can recommend for 22 or 22 AWG that's solid, tinned and bare ?
    Saludos from Mรฉxico.

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  10. Don't have a Mouser number for you, but for longer runs I use some 22 AWG solid core wire and just strip the insulation off it. It's actually leftover wire from a garage door opener. haha

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Haha. OK... I'll just use some old analog phone line cable that I ripped out of my mom's house... Yes .
      It's that old

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  11. is there any chance of building a mad professor snow white auto wah and a zvex machine in the future?

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    Replies
    1. It's possible. Sending schematics always helps

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  12. Thank you so much for this site! I've built a Timmy and Wampler Ecstasy so far--first crack at etching my own pcb's. One thing to note--as far as offboard wiring is concerned, I wasn't able to get my pedals working until I changed the grounding to the input jack instead of the output and ran an additional grounding wire from the input jack to the output jack. For some reason I couldn't get mine to work when grounding at the output jack. Maybe this is something obvious I'm missing, but in case somebody else is having trouble, making this wiring change is worth a shot.

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  13. Greeting.
    I'm planning on building my own crunchbox and I want to ask you a question. Should I use only 5mm red led, or is it possible to replace it with the other ones?
    My best regard

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    Replies
    1. Any diode will work there, it will just sound slightly differently than the original. Your best bet is to socket the diodes and try out several different ones to find what you like.

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  14. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    1. How to know of type capacitor to use. For example tantalum or ceramic?
      Sorry for this question, but sometimes seems confused to me.

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    2. Cap type is generally up to you, however green caps are film, yellow caps are ceramic (unless indicated otherwise, or a value greater than 1ยตF), and black/grey caps are electrolytics.

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  15. Hi everybody…
    Super super website… Thanks very much for your fantastic job !
    I'm making now my own PCB, so this web site is wonderful for me ! Thanks thanks thanks thanks

    ReplyDelete
  16. Hey nice website
    I used your layout for the eqd hummingbird, and Bigfoot magnavibe, both work fine, thanks...
    Btw what software are you using for your layouts?

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    Replies
    1. Thanks man, and thanks for verifying the Hummingbird. I use DIYLC and some photoshop. Here's a time lapse video I made of me drawing up a layout to get an idea of how I do it.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFniAgBTXnY

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  17. Finally , thanks for this and for the creator of this site and for the layout ...
    Thank you @effectslayouts
    Have a wonderful day ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘

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  18. I Love Perfect & Pcb Effects layouts......wonderfull

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  19. Hi guys, beautiful website, thank you very much, I wonder if you have any of the PCB's in CAD format???

    And if so where can i find them, for now specifically the Earthquaker Devices - Hoof Fuzz... as well as a part list,I know it's on the board but it's easiest to order parts from a list (to me).

    thanks.

    Monty from South Africa.

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  20. This web site is amazing! Hey, can you do the boss acoustic simulator?

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  21. Hi, nice website, i'm getting ready to make my first project.

    I wanna know in this layout where is LED and resistor (in the green part). 3PDT is on the red part, right?

    http://imgur.com/a/siRja

    Here is a clean image

    http://i.imgur.com/bTosOeS.png

    Thanks

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    Replies
    1. Yep, that's right. Good luck with your build!

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  22. Humm, thanks. Where is the + and - and where i put the ground?

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    1. Ground goes to the pad labeled ground in the layout (connects to the sleeve of the in and/or out jack) and the negative side of the LED is indicated by the flat side (also indicated in the layout).

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  23. Hi, you're creating the best layouts i've ever seen, which program do you use for it? And can you say, how do you do drilling templates?

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    1. I use DIYLC and photoshop (mostly for the ground fill) for the layouts, and then photoshop again for the drilling templates.

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  24. Hey man, your site , and the fact that you take the time to post and create all this is amazing. i started about a year ago and still cant understand 90 percent of what im doing so you must be a super smart guy. I must say youve got to be the most patient person as well, how many times do you think youve been asked where to hook up he output wire, or how do i wire the 3pdt, or led. not once have i ever read a comment from you that wasnt polite telling them to read offboard wiring. lol it would prob get under my skin after the 500th time, knowing that there is a whole section on all these questions. Any way ive gone stricktly to making pcbs and not messing with perf, the boards always look amazing but im having troulbe bc there is so much ground fill if i barely flow to much solder ive had several builds get ruined when this happens, ill try to wick it up and before i know it ive pulled a pad off or created another solder bridge. Ive tried photoshop and DIYLC but hoping you could tell me how i could reduce ground fill to give me a little wiggle room if a little to much solder flows. Im trying but just not that great at soldering. For example tonepads layouts, and on your site, lovepedal eternity, dan armstrong orange squeezer. Id be very greatful but i iunderstand if there isnt a simple way of doing this. 90 percent of my internet time is spend on your site. Thank you sincerly for all the work u do.

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    1. Thanks for the kind words man, I really appreciate it. Sorry you're having trouble with the ground fill. I occasionally too will just get way too much solder and short a few pads. There's not really a good way to adapt the existing layouts to have less ground fill other than redrawing them in DIYLC. Aside from that, your best bet is to just practice soldering. If you're not already, make sure you're using an iron with a fine tip and small diameter solder (I think I use 0.031", but don't remember off the top of my head). When I first started out I was using like 1/8" diameter solder and a fairly large tip (and I was trying to build on stripboard too) and things just did not go well.

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  25. im gonna get some thinner solder, i just got a soldering station, its a cheapo Yihua 936, but its way nicer than any of the pencil soldering irons ive had, few were more than twice as much as it cost, and were supposedly variable wattage. After doing some research i think i need one of those calibration tools bc within 10 seconds of turning it on the tip will take solder. I find so many different things ppl say, im reading now not to use regular sponges only ones made for soldering bc there are chemicals , ie soap and whatnot on reg sponges, i prob need to go ahead with a real dremel and the press accessory bc im drilling by hand, and my etches are really good, but its hard to get every single hole perfect. Think im gonna take couple weeks off from the hobby bc its become an obsession and there are so many tools and parts needed. At first i just wanted to make a pedal. Now ive gotten to were if im gonna do it i want it look professional as well. Im stuck on the EarthQuaker Devices Hummingbird. I love how it sounds and want so bad to have a working clone. Next etch will be my 7th one, they all look good but the sectiion where the npn and jfet pads are all in a row i cannot get past getting some over flow. I need a socket for the t0-18 package of 2n2646 transistor to, ive been using single sip sockets, and get them in straight but the first one i built i was getting a clean signal, level pot was working, and if i pressed down on the 2n2646 ud hear some trem for like 1 second then it would go away. Anyway, im gonna take some time and try to see if i can do a layout and space it out just a tad bit for the npn and jfet, i dont have to have sockets on those. and the unijunction tranny has plenty of space. Anyway thanks for reply. I dont think ive seen any pics of a clone of the hummingbird, if i have some luck ill post my pick. if not guess ill go back to the fuck it approach and just start wicking away solder til it works, with 6 populated boards, without trannys, but w sockets im sure i can make one of them work. just wont be as pretty as i want it to be.

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  26. Hi, just another noob question : with this layout, is the DC input suitable for "boss style" power plant (negative pin) ? I would like to start a project but would be really disappointed ruining everything just because of a wrong 9V DC understanding ! :)
    Thanks by the way, this blog is really killer !

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    Replies
    1. Yep, a center negative power supply works with all the effects on the blog unless otherwise stated.

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  27. What is the best way to scale the non-PDF layouts to make sure they print the right size? (360 Bass Fuzz for example)

    Thanks,and thanks for the site, really enjoying going through abd seeing whats inside these boxes!

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    1. There is a PDF for the 360:

      https://www.dropbox.com/s/v1st9psoxemkzd8/Moosapotamus%20360%20Fuzz.pdf?dl=0

      If there weren't, you'd have to use photoshop and use the perf side to scale each pad to a 0.1" grid. A real pain haha!

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    2. Awesome! I missed that in my search!

      Cheers!

      Delete
  28. Hello, i´ve made the green russian muff, but i see taht it doesn´t have the out in the pcb board. How can i wire it?
    all is connected as you show.
    Hope u can help me. I´m new on this.
    Greetings!

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    Replies
    1. and the image say "Volume 2 to out"
      it refer to the out in the 3pdt switch?

      Delete
  29. Hello, you make an excellent work over here, I hope this site to grow much more.

    I have a question, for example, on pedals as the triton delay or the kay t-1 tremolo, where should I connect the LED negatives? I don't get them to sound :(

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  30. Hello!! Where can I submit a Layout? No Contact section :/

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  31. what specific audio jack will I use in the input and output signal is it mono or stereo??

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  32. Ayuda sobre la guia de transistores, es correcta la hubicacion de CBE, he notado que algunos estan alรฑ reves o es correcta la imagen??

    SALUDOS.

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  33. Help on the transistor guide, CBE hub is correct, I noticed that some are back or is the image correct ??

    GREETINGS.

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    1. I think google translate might be failing us on this one. As far as I know, that image is correct.

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  34. Hi, thanks for this very helpful page! Why the diagonal jumper on the footswitch, from top left to bottom middle lug?

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    1. That grounds the effect when it's bypassed. That way no unwanted noise from the effect bleeds into the bypassed signal.

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  35. Thanks for the reply, I didn't realise that

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