I've laid out the distortion section and the boost section as separate layouts in case someone wants to build it without the boost in a 1590B. The boost itself might be a nice little stand alone pedal and would easily fit in a 1590A. (The boost is a simple BJT-based circuit that drives a modified Big Muff tone stack. If you wanted to add a volume control to the boost circuit, just connect lug 3 of a 100k pot to lug 2 of the Cream pot, then ground lug 1 of the new Volume pot, with lug 2 to Out.)
Edit Aug. 20:
Got a request for this without the ground loop as there have been reports of noise in the circuit and that could be culprit. If you've already built it, try cutting some copper near the text on the PCB.
Fucking awesome, man! I love this one!
ReplyDeleteAre you building this ??
DeleteI've been waiting for this!
ReplyDeletesomebody please verify this !
ReplyDeletewhy don't you build it and verify it?
ReplyDeleteIn the only way man!do it, dont wait to anybody, be the first!
Deletei am doing some other project. i will do this as soon as i am done with that :)
DeleteHi guys. Before building it I went through the schematic and this layout. I tried to visually verify if the layout is accurate.
ReplyDeleteHere's the schematic: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NUlKC9gloDQ/TxL3rucGxdI/AAAAAAAAAjY/CWne3xV_0-k/s1600/wampler_triple_wreck.gif
I noticed that in the schematic, C20 (capacitor that goes after pin 1 and before pin 6 of the TL072) is 0.001 which means it's 1nF. In this layout it's 10nF. I PM'd storyboardist about this in freestompboxes but I haven't got a reply yet. :) Everything else is accurate. ;)
I'm halfway through building this and I'm excitedddd. :D Cheers.
Thanks for catching that! The layout has been updated with the right cap value. Should be good to go guys!
DeleteTHERE'S ANOTHER ONEEEE.... That 1k resistor above D1, and D2 should be 47k. :)
DeleteIt's R10 in the schematic. :D
Great! :) Thank you!
DeleteOh yeah just an update. I got it to work. Nice gain and EQ. I still have some troubleshooting to do, my build is still kinda noisy (hum). I don't know if this is enough to verify it but as we all know, the circuit is exactly the same as the schem. :D
Delete@Mon - is it a ground loop hum ??
DeleteNo it's not. It's the hum/noise that comes when you turn up the gain. But mine is a bit worse. I noticed that two of my non-inverting inputs in the 074 are a bit low than what should be so most likely the problem's in there.
DeleteHello!, The second image is a correct PCB?
ReplyDeleteBoth images are the same, only the 2nd has the break in the ground loop that some complained was causing hum.
DeleteHello.
ReplyDeleteThe Wampler Triple Wreck main borad is always said to benefit from a 18V power supply, can this layout be powered at 18V ? If so have you tried it ?
Thanks
As long as your components are rated high enough for the extra voltage it should be fine. Only components you should have to worry about are the electrolytic caps. Those should at least be rated at 35v.
DeleteFully verified! In the boost section, try other transistors, mpsa18 works much better, and is more similar to the original, I've been able to try it with the original.
ReplyDeleteThanks for verifying!
DeleteI have made this one. Used 2nd layout pic. Effect have plenty of gain. Still I have some issues with volume and bass pot. I only have 100A or 100B pot for bass so the regulation is not smooth. Also I have noticed that in bypass mode my signal is slightly lower than distorted signal, no matter if 100kA pot is kranked open. But the effect produces extremely heavy ammount of gain. Have done couple of tests with different OP Amps. In my opinion it works slightly better on TL084 & TL082.
ReplyDeleteHi! I have built it with MXR Micro Amp in one enclosure. When I use battery it works normaly, when I use power supplier (AC adaptor) it has huge volume drop :( Can anybody help me with that?
ReplyDeleteHi there!
ReplyDeleteCan anyone help with two issues plz?
1-When I plug 9v source it starts normal, all controls are OK, but after a couple minutes the volume drops ~70% of normal! I have no idea what it could be.
2-When the gain is full there is an annoying noise/hum, that's normal? I know that in the most of high gain pedals the max gain bring some noise, but acceptable. But in this case my build with max gain brings too much noise.
Thanks and cheers from Brazil!
Looks like I've fixed the issue nº 1. The problem was the 10k that comes from 9v lead to 10uF. I changed to 15k and until now the problem is gone. I didn't boxed it yet so I hope when I do that the noise will become acceptable, fixing the issue nº 2.
Delete"Sorry, English is not my native language."
To solve the problem 2, try changing the value of the pot drive ... EX: If you are A100K A20K ..... try ........ usually resolves .....
DeleteWe have the same problem with issue issue no.1. which resistor are you talking about? there are 2 10k resistors where that 10uf cap is situated. is it the left or the right?
Deletehe was talking about the R25 i supposed. based on schematic, from 9+ going to R24(47ohms). so it's the right side. correct me if i'm wrong.
DeleteHi Eduardo!, Did you solved that 2nd issue, I think I got the same!
Deletehttps://drive.google.com/open?id=1YnfgXbGxXk4jCU962yD8tZEtModzcrv2
What does the cream pot do??
ReplyDeleteIt's a tone control for the boost.
Deletedom we have sample audio with this sir?
ReplyDeleteThere are a bunch on YouTube
Deletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMQr89MGr1Y
tnx man
DeleteHi I'm going to build this one, ehis is a great site thank you so much! Do you have EHX Metal Muff? Will you do it too?
ReplyDeleteCan someone explain what does treble 1,treble 2,treble 3 mean.Do the numbers here refer to the three lugs of a potentiometer?
ReplyDeleteCheck out the General Layout Notes tab at the top of the page
Deletefully verified, ive already made it :-)
ReplyDeletei have a question with the gain, i did everything in the layout, i even checked the schematics, with out the boost part yet, but does it really sound like an OD? ive checked the demos in the youtube, they all sound great, mine just lacks gain, what did i do wrong?
DeleteHard / metal switch,no change the sound , someone has noticed?
DeleteYou know it can be ?
roser colldecarrera compte hi try change cap 4,7nf to 8.2 or 1.5 nf
Delete
Deletesorry not all the capacitors only the one that is on the vintage modern switch output
Perfect pedal. Fully verified. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteCool. Thanks for verifying!
DeleteIs the boost section before or after the main circuit??
DeleteBoost goes before.
Deleteany idea to make sound more drastic beetwen vintage and modern switch?
Deletei love this one thanks
mine is even if it is all full volume the output is very low. if i turn bypass it is louder much louder.
ReplyDeleteI just ended up building it and I´m facing the same problem, has anyone solves this one??
Deletesolved
Deletehow did you solve it please share
Deletenot solved. I was just correcting the phrase above
DeleteMost of time this issue become from some bad soldering, connection bridge or even wrong component values. Try to validate each component and connections and try again. This pedal have lots of volume and distortion.
DeleteSolved guys. The problema was a little short circuit.
DeleteI can assure it´s verified.
DeleteYou can see and hear in my homemade footage. I recorded it today as a token of gratitude to everyone here that helped in the success of this build.
https://youtu.be/KZBchXIwhiA
Hey guys! I already did the Triple Wreck but I'm gonna do it a Microamp instead this Boost Section. My buddies told me that Boost section sucks! Greetings from Argentina!
ReplyDeleteWell, I liked the boost, it sounds fuzzy. But I liked fuzz pedals as well.
Deleteverified
ReplyDeletehttps://youtu.be/KZBchXIwhiA
Nice
Deletemine seems to be lacking in distortion and gain, what seems to be the problem can you help me?
DeleteHey Eugene, it could be cold solder joint!
Deletetnx man!! will try it out cheers!!!
DeleteHi! I finally got it all assembled and running and it runs fine and is loud in the first few minutes and dramatically losses it's volume. There seems to be great deal of volume and gain loss and I can't figure out what I did wrong. Even when the gain is set to zero the volume of the guitar is lower than compared to the dry signal. Any thoughts on what I could have done wrong in this build?
ReplyDeleteIt is a good pedal !
ReplyDeleteI built two of those and it is Verified !
Thanks for the layout! I built the main pedal and the boost on the same board. Main effect works great but I'm having an issue with the boost...
ReplyDeleteThe sound from the boost is crackly and sounds pretty gated, like the signal is only coming through when I hit the guitar strings pretty hard. Any ideas?
I'm getting 0.35 volts at the collector of the transistor.
Sounds like the transistor is misbiased. Make sure the 47k resistor going from the voltage rail to the collector is the right value or you may need to tweak that value.
DeleteCan I have the Gerber files for the boards? I tried using a proto-board but was unsuccessful.
ReplyDeleteCan't do Gerbers with DIYLC, sorry. You'd have to redraw it in a program like Eagle or DipTrace that can export Gerbers.
DeleteHi, It caught my eye that the 1uf caps is marked as electrolytics on the layout. But they are marked as non polarized caps in the schematic. I think coupling caps normally would be non polarized as well. Im no expert, it just caught my eye. What is the correct type of cap?
ReplyDeleteBest regards
Boost section goes right after main section or before? I mean is there a clean sound at the input of the boost or distorted already??
ReplyDeleteThe boost goes before the main circuit. You could put it after, but apparently it doesn't sound very good after.
Deleteokey. thanks for answering
DeleteHi, i've build this pedal without the boost section,and work perfectly, but with the volume pot to the max...
ReplyDeleteMy voltage at the 2 IC's are:
TL072:
1: 2,5
2: 2,5
3: 2,6
4: 0
5: 4,3
6: 4,3
7: 4,3
8: 8,7
Quad opamp:( I use LM324)
1:4,3
2: 4,4
3: 4,3
4: 8,7
5: 4,3
6: 4,3
7: 4,3
8: 4,3
9: 4,3
10: 4,3
11: 4,3
12: 4,3
13: 4,3
14: 5,1
Thanks for repplies..! And you make an exellent work with your build..!
Hey bro, try to changes all 1uF elco to 1uF mkm/mylar. If you dont have that try 470nF it'll be work too. It changes volume drop issue
DeleteThanks, i will test that and give you some news ..!!
DeleteI have the same problem. In addition, the volume decreases at 18 volts. Blakol, is it ok now ?
DeleteOk, solved! 1uF should be film cap!
DeletePaul, it helped me too. 1uF caps should be film! :)
DeleteI have the same issue, tried multilayer caps but didn't work
DeleteExcellent project, there is the version with potentiometers mounted in pbc?
ReplyDeleteAwasome..this work. I like this sound of character... Thank u
ReplyDeleteUntuk volumenya gimana mas ? drop gak ?
Deletejust finised build last night, here's my video
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lz7HY2jFY4s
btw, thanks for the layout,awesome *cheers*
Nice! Love the etched enclosure too!
Deletenice work sound awesome , today finish mine . what is the ic that you used? or did some mod?
DeleteHi guys, I got an issue with the gain knob:
ReplyDeletehttps://drive.google.com/open?id=1YnfgXbGxXk4jCU962yD8tZEtModzcrv2
any ideas? The pots are
Volume-------Gain
Boost-Hi-Mid-Bass
try others ic
Deleteit seems an excess of treble
Did you use the specific values?
of pots
Deletedecreases buzz considerably using lm324 for tl074 and ne5532 for tl072
Deletegood luck whith your work
thanks for the design,
ReplyDeleteI finished mine but there is a buzz that increases with the gain and treble
how much of this is normal? because still has no cabinet
decreases buzz considerably using lm324 for tl074 and ne5532 for tl072
Deletegood luck whith your work
I lose sound on one lug of the 1nF cap above the TL072,when bridged,I can get sound through but still it doesn't sound as it should and the mid control seems not to work,what could be the cause,I can report the voltages if needed?
ReplyDelete
DeleteI think maybe this burned some resistance around,
use multimeter to test .
check the tracks or weld will be that are between tracks try other tl072.
probably the problem whith mids is the same
I've checked the PCB,no issues there,I will do the offboard wiring again and try and scope the circuit to track down where I'm losing the signal :/
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteIt didn't work, there was no sound and the transistor 47 burned
ReplyDeleteI have a question about how the boost pcb connects to the main board. I am assuming that the 2 boards are connected in series, and that the input jack connects first to the boost IN via the 3PDT switch, and since the Cream "2" is out this connects to the IN on the main board, and to the gain 3PDT "out" position. Then Volume "2" is the output from the main board to "out" on the bypass switch? And the main board IN must also go to the "IN" position on the bypass switch? Finally the 9V positive terminal goes to the boost 9V which then goes to the 9V on the main board, and the negative terminal goes to the boost's ground which then connects to the main board's ground which connects to the output jack. Is all that correct?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
You're correct, the 2 circuits are in series, but if memories serves the boost is after the main circuit. Really, it's 2 separate effects in one box, so you need 2, 3PDT footswitches. Input jack goes to the first 3PDT's lug 2, then lug 1 to the main board's in. The main board's out goes back to the first 3PDT's lug 7, and lug 8 goes to lug 2 of the second 3PDT for the boost. Lug 1 of the second 3PDT to the boost in, boost out to lug 7, and lug 8 to the output jack. See the general layout notes tab for the rest of the footswitch wiring.
DeleteOk I think I get it, that sounds right. The reason I figured the boost is first is because it has 2 spots for the 9V plus, so thought I would run the power into boost, then to the main circuit. Does it matter which circuit comes first?
ReplyDeleteThanks again
You can run the power however you like really. I added the 2nd +9v pad so people wouldn't have to run 2 wires to the DC jack.
DeleteGotcha that's what I figured, thanks again!
DeleteVerified too! I had troubles with loudness too. I"ve changed R16 from 470k to 120k, & R18 from 47k to 100k, everything OK!I user pair Tl074,072 & Tl 084, 082. Second pair has more saturation sound! Thanks David!
ReplyDeleteBy "trouble with loudness" do you mean the volume drop in the main circuit? Or with the boost circuit being way louder than the main circuit? I'm having both issues. The main distortion drops maybe 30% in volume after playing for a 1/2 hour, and in general the volume control needs to be maxed out to equal unity. Any insights you have would be much appreciated!
DeleteI made it without boost, & i had not enough volume in out, my bypass had more volume than wampler, & I changed resistors. I used all 1mkf capacitors films, not electrolits.
DeleteHey thanks for the quick response. My pedal seems to have improved itself somehow. The volume drop no longer occurs (maybe the circuit needed to 'burn itself in'?) But I still need the volume control at about 1 O'Clock to equal bypassed volume. I guess can live with that. The boost is louder than the main circuit, but not too much louder now, so all in all I think I'm ok. Thanks again!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteIs everyone who builds this circuit finding that the boost creates a dramatic jump in volume? The main circuit is not very loud (vol control at 1 O'Clock to reach bypassed volume), but when the boost is engaged the volume jumps significantly, so wondering, is that the purpose of a boost? Any answers would be much appreciated.
ReplyDeleteThe problem of losing volume by about 70% was decided by replacing all 1 uF electrolytic capacitors with non-polar 1 uF films. Based on the scheme. On the layout error.
ReplyDeleteOk yeah, I saw that comment earlier, so doing as you suggest, replacing all 1uF electrolytics with non-polar caps solves the volume reduction, yet it does not effect the overall tone and character of the distortion? Interestingly I recently tried running the triple wreck thru the effects loop on my amp, and it turns out that the main circuit's volume is louder, normal, i.e. the distortion volume when set to 10 O'Clock equals the bypassed volume. So I do not need to change the caps as it turns out. Aside from that issue, I was wondering about the boost circuit. Currently I have the boost running in series after the main circuit, and it is much louder than the main. Does it sound differently, or have a lower volume, when running before the main circuit? Thanks again!
DeleteI did not use a real copy of the pedal, only this layout. I also cannot assess the overall tone and distortion compared to polar capacitors, because my pedal almost immediately lost its volume. Now the pedal sounds very cool, but in my opinion there are not enough high frequencies. My treble knob to the fullest. I am thinking of trying to change the output capacitor 1 uF near Volume 3 to another, for example 820 nF and listen as it will. I collect only one main part, without boost.
DeleteI see, so you did not create the boost circuit along with the main distortion circuit? My main circuit distortion also sounds great, but like yours does not have a great deal of high frequencies. I kind of like that about it (I also built the Friedman BE-OD, and it's a monster, almost too much gain, plenty of high end tho). Again my main circuit is fine even with the polar caps, I just need to do something about the boost which is TOO loud.
DeleteI understand you ;)
DeleteWrite me on a Facebook https://www.facebook.com/rock561
DeleteThanks but not on FB haha...I'm gonna breadboard a number of different preamp boosters and run them in series with my triple wreck to see which one sounds best, so it's all good.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteany recommendation for excessive trebles? When climbing to the top it cuts as if it were treble to zero and there is also a hum very noisy wiring is clean pcb also clean tracks any idea?
ReplyDeleteAny recommendations for excessive trebles? When you climb to the top you cut it and there is also a buzz. The wiring and pcb is very clean. Any ideas?
ReplyDeletePlease, one question:
ReplyDeleteTo feed the pedal with 18v is only guarantee electrolitic is above 35v?
It needs another mods?
Yeah, that should be all that's necessary.
DeleteHow to use linear potentios
DeleteHow to use linear potentios
ReplyDeletedoing my during the quarentine!PCB done next step is soldering!!
ReplyDeleteYou just built it and it really sounds great ... a wonderful pedal ... great sound and lots of gain. I had to make some modifications in some resistors that my supplier did not have, the potentiometer of C100k for a c10k, and the spst switch for an spdt and it worked immediately. thanks for these wonderful works. much appreciated.
ReplyDeleteVerified!!!! Not a single value was modified and work beatiful!!!!
ReplyDeleteI faced volume issue as well but after fixing the direction of 1uF electric cap at the right hand side of TL074, the issue was solved. Basically the polarity just after hard clipping should be negative. In this case, hard clipping is made by D1/2 at the right bottom, then signal moves on through 47k resistor. Just after this signal, if we put polarized cap, negative side should be facing the signal.
ReplyDeleteGreat pedal although i couldn't get the switch to work until I changed the cap value(4.7nf) to 15nf. Lower values (less than 1nf) worked as well however i decided on the 15nf.
ReplyDeleteOlá você teria um pré amplificador para violão legal?
ReplyDelete