This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.

Thursday, April 30, 2015

Wampler Ecstasy

Here's another great overdrive from Wampler, with a wide range of tones to choose from. It has a simple 2-band EQ and a DPDT (on-off-on) switch to go between smooth clipping, no clipping, and hard clipping.



19 comments:

  1. Ok, I've just finished it, I've done yet three times using different layouts, I had always the same issue, dark sound and the sweep of the tone control wasn't that good. But , this time I've used this layout (thanks mate) and used:
    33nF for the input cap
    47 pF across pins 6&7
    and !!! the most important thing:
    Plastic 100pF instead of ceramics (the original have the same)
    10K lin pot for tone pot (some original used C25K, so 10K lin characteristic is a big part of the C25K )
    Cheers from Algeria;)
    Rafik.

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    1. Cool. Thanks for your notes and for verifying!

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  2. The cap 1uf is a polyester in the schemantic, help, here is a electroly

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    1. In my experience you can't tell a real audible difference between capacitor types. An electro will work just fine there and it saves space. If you want to use a film or other type of capacitor there you can.

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  3. Hi, would you please guys tell me what are the pcb dimentions of this?

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  4. Hey please what is the switching open / crunch. Thanks

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    1. The switch connects to the pads labeled Sw_. Follow the switch numbering diagram on the General Layout Notes tab and you should be good to go.

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  5. the ci is mc1458? I've seen cases that are using the 4558 or the 4580, which is the original? (I'm Brazilian, I translated this question via google translate).
    thank you!!!

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    1. It's possible Wampler has used all 3 chips at different times during production. Any of them will work and shouldn't require modification.

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    2. I tested several chips and what I liked the most was the NE5532.

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  6. I built this pedal, and it sounds great! My only complaint is that even with the tone knob rolled all of the way down it is really bright. Could I reduce the brightness by changing the 100pF cap at the input? If so, would I want to increase or decrease the value? Thanks for sharing the knowledge!

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    1. Try increasing the value of the cap coming off lug 2 of the Tone pot. You could also increase the value of the input cap (22nF to the left of the IC) as well.

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    2. Thanks for the suggestions. I will put some capacitors on order and try to swap them out.

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  7. Any chance of redoing this one with board mounted pots?

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  8. Nice work. I made this project in protel program and after some mestakes I've closed it into the metal box. Sounds good. I'll try it with my fender frontman 65 amplifier to color clean channel with some dirt.

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  9. I made one for clean channel. Nice design,way of thinking... Great pedal. Do not search distortion or chase some unshape tones. Best for just little gain combined with bass clip pot to keep main tone
    Thanks

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  10. Hellow I need some help I build two of this pedal, one for me one for my friend. The thing is that mine is really fizzy and a lot brighter than my friend's. I chance the 22n cap of the tone control and now is a little better but still very fizzy should I try replacing all of the caps? . The one for my friend sounds amazing but the tone control only works the last quarter of the turn is this normal? Thanks for the good work

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    1. Is it boxed? Are you using all the parts shown on the layout?

      No, don't change all the caps... waste of time.
      If you want a less bright sounds, change the tone pot to 10k. Possibly, increase the size of the 100pf capacitors to something bigger like 220pf (you can try changing one or all of them).

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  11. Cqn i use anything other than A1M pot?

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