This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.

Thursday, April 9, 2015

Mid-Fi Deluxe Pitch Pirate

This was a request from my friend Cody from They Remained Silent blog. The Pitch Pirate is a vibrato/chorus pedal, and the deluxe version adds a PT2399 based delay. It also has the ability to modulate over an octave as well as control the waveform of the modulator, giving you a huge range of tonal options.





Notes:
You can go the home-brew route and put a 1M LDR and LED in some shrink tubing or there should be enough space to use a VTL5C2 photocoupler. Adjust the trimmer at input till there's no unwanted distortion.

60 comments:

  1. just checking: has this been verified yet?

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    1. Still tagged as Unverified, so no. Give it a shot tho

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    2. OK. After seeing the FSB thread I was hoping someone had finished it. If I do it I'll definitely let ya know.

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  2. It's verified! Thanks for great layout!

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  3. Can't really help you without more info. It's been verified, so I'm gonna go ahead and say it's user error.

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  4. Hello! Thanks for the project.
    I tried this one and it seems to have something wrong or the way the effect work is different from what I expected . On the "vibrato side", the effect is too subtle (blend on 0). When I move the blend pot clockwise, starts a beautiful delay/vibrato, but no sound from the guitar. Only the repetitions with vibrato effect.
    Is this right?
    Best regards and great work!

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  5. I think I sounded a bit confusing.

    I expect to have a vibrato pedal with blend pot at full anticlockwise. But I only have an almost clean signal in this position.

    The vibrato/pitch/chorus beauty only apears on delay.

    Is this right? Thank you!

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    1. I haven't personally built this or played with an original, so I can't speak to the issue you're having. Check video demos and see if they can clear it up. Can anyone else chime in here?

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    2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9k7LdscJfQ

      Looking this video, I think it's great. Very similar. I change the speed wiring. Before: Speed 1. After: Speed 3. Now speed increases to clockwise. Also, I changed the speed potentiometer to B500K for a better response, in my opinion.

      Again, great work! Cheers!

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  6. I'm not finding the "Request" area here. So, I ask you: it is possible to make the standard version of Pitch Pirate? Here is the vero: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/50716053/Pitch%20Pirate.png

    I think it sounds incredible, it's more simple and more direct.

    Thanks!

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  7. see on sample demo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYmBkyNEYuE

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  8. thanks a lot!
    great sounding pedal and great layout as usual
    Cheers!

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  9. Does anyone have a vero of the Deluxe Pitch Pirate?

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  10. Hey guys. Anyone have an issue with LED? I went from the board to the switch but get nothing lighting up. I know the LED works I can get it to light when u touch coped traces. Just not working with the effect? Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

    Matt

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  11. Hi, you have pin "Footswitch ground" and if the pin is connect to ground then generator work and the LED blinking with speed of generator.

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  12. Great site! Love your layouts. Any chance of a vero/pcb for the Mid-fi clari not? Schematic here:

    http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=74294.msg603773#msg603773

    Thanks!

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    1. I will add it to the list. Thanks for including the schem!

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  13. it works but i hear a click(its sounds like the lfo. when it gets up to audio rate its an annoying whine.) do others have this lfo noisesad? or can i fix it.Regardless this pedal rules. I can easily get tame to insane chorus sounds. Vibrato/ and a whole bunch of effects that cant really be described but are usually very pleasing. This pedal is a must for any sonic explorer. It will be a staple on my board just for the lush chorus/vibrato. the trippy crazyness is just icing on the cake!~ 10/10 this pedal is amaze balls.

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    1. I had the same anoying lfo click like you, did you fix it in your pedal? This effects rules!!! Sorry for my poor english!!

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    2. initially mine clicked especially on a tube cricket. i inserted a 200ohm resistor across 9v to pin 8 i just cut the trace on the top of board and soldered a 47uf cap across pin 8 to ground. now no clicking what so ever

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  14. i just build one and it's work !!!
    But i had a problem, there isn't delay if the delay knob setted at full

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    1. Sounds like the wiper of that pot might be going past the end of the resistant track and shorting out. Either don't completely max that pot or replace it.

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  15. Have some white noize on delay repeats. I think the reason is bad quality PT chip.. will try another

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  16. I just finished building this. Very cool effect! I tried about 15 different PT2399s until I found one the circuit liked best. I also used an LM386-3 chip. It tamed the noise a bit more to my ears. Thanks for the layout and Happy New Year!

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  17. Hi,

    I've found cheap replacement for vtl5c2 - soviet АОР124А. It is nearly as fast and excels any homebrew vactrol even with high quality ldr.
    I've also put ne5532 instead of 4558, imo, it worked better it this circuit.

    My build (still with 4558): https://goo.gl/Jfe7Nj

    Cheers!

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    1. Hello, you know the Soviet analog vtl5c1?

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  18. just saw a schematic of the Pirate, and it shows a regular 25k pot as the blend control. anyways to convert this layout to that version?

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    1. I'd have to look at the schem. Can you post a link?

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  19. http://s10.photobucket.com/user/midfielectronics/media/Pirate.jpg.html

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    1. The original Pirate seems to be a bit simpler than the Deluxe. You could probably make it on this board, but it's probably easier for me to create a new layout then try and go through all the modifications that would need to be done to this layout. So look for that layout soon.

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  20. built one, effect doesnt work, only blend works (as volume). Does anyone have same problem?

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    1. check for solder bridges, they can be sneaky. If you're getting nothing from the delay, i'd suspect something grounding the 5v power to your pt2399.

      Also, sometimes the etching does quite finish, and you have to do some extra scraping between the lines. they can be hard to see.

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    2. Same thing happened to me. Haven't found the solution yet tho

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  21. Hi can someone explain me were do i connect footswitch ground, and "led" ? Thank you!!

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    1. The VTL5C2 is just a LDR and LED in one package. They're built to specific specs so you don't have to play a guessing game with individual LDRs and LEDs. On one side should have an LED schematic symbol and other should have a resistor or LDR symbol.

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    2. Sadly the only vtl5c2 I could find cost $20... Definitely going the DIY way. Why connect a separate LED in the circuit? And do we need to connect the negative leg back to footswitch ground?

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    3. The LED pad is for the on/off indicator. Check the General Layout Notes for off board wiring.

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  23. Hi! Built one, but have some problem. When "delay time" pot in max and "depth" min or "delay time" min and "depth" max it works nice. But i hear many crackles of repeats in middle positions of these pots

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  24. Can someone explain the footswitch ground pad to me? The footswitch ground is the same ground on the circuit board? Also the LED doesn't blink at all it just stays constant, so the vibrato effect doesn't really exist.

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  25. Can we use the 1 and 8 pins of the lm386 as a start point for a fuzz mod ?

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    1. the pt2399 itself can make a pretty wicked Fuzz. check out the noise ensemble.

      check out the clari(not) it uses the 386 as a fuzz ontop of a pt2399 effect.

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  26. On mine the delay functions work and nothing else. The LED doesn't illuminate.

    "footswitch ground" is a very confusing designation. Should that be connected to the chassis and in/out jacks?

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  27. You've probably got a short some where if the LED isn't doing anything. Footswitch ground means that pad should be connected to the lug of the footswitch that normally goes to ground (see the General Layout Notes tab)

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  28. Trying to wrap my head around this, there's a 10k resistor from v+ to pins 3 and 6 of the opamp (non-inverting opamp A and inverting input opamp B) and then another 10k to "footswitch ground", which then has the optocoupler led, a 47uf cap, and gets tied to pin 4 which is of course V- for the opamp.

    This looks like a "virtual ground" circuit. Except there's almost no load across the 1k resistors unless there is a path from "footswitch ground" to power ground. So there is very little voltage across them.

    with the ground leg of the led at "footswitch ground", both sides of the LED are at almost the same potential so it doesn't light.

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  29. So basically the "Footswitch Ground" connects to power ground through the ground lug on your output or input jack, per the wiring diagram in the general layout notes.

    There should be no mystery about this - in some schemes, order of connections of ground points MATTERS. You'd think that as people who mess around with magnetic pickups, we'd have that concept down.

    Anyway, it's alive! Thanks.

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  30. quick question: are the ceramic caps pictured supposed to be 1pf or 1nf as pictured? thank you in advanced for your response.

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  31. quick question: are the ceramic caps pictured supposed to be 1pf or 1nf as pictured? thank you in advanced for your response.

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  32. The caps are supposed to be 1nf.

    FYI I used a Luna P9008 LDR and a Cree C503B-GAN ultra bright green LED, both from Digikey, and they are working very, very well. it's likely that the Macron MI1210CLD from small-bear or other suppliers is a good sub for the Vactrol optocoupler. I bought one, but haven't tried it.

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    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    2. Thanks for the awesome info. is there a reason you chose a green LED over others. here are the stats for the LDR i was thinking of using. any advice? GL5528------150 (VDC)-------100 (mW)------------ 540(nm)----------10~20(kOhm)----------------1.0(MQ / MOhm)------0.7(min)-----------20 and 30(ms)

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    3. I used a green LED for the very simple reason that the datasheet for that LDR states that it is most sensitive to green light. It's sensitive to 400 to 700 nm, but it's peak sensitivity is at 520nm. The peak brightness of the Cree LED I picked is iirc 522nm.

      I used an ultra-bright green because the oldschool green LEDs are far less efficient than other colors at converting current to light. The modern ultra-bright parts are all really blue or UV parts with a phosphor that converts the light to the desired color.

      The Luna LDR I used is 10-200k in use and 20mohms at 10 seconds, so the range is quite a bit further than the Senba part. The Senba part does have a 30ms rise time, vs. 65ms for the Luna, so you could say it reacts faster, but since it has 1/10th the response, I don't think it matters that it does 1/10th the work in 1/2 the time.

      When I built my clari(not), I followed the "1m ldr" advice and bought some "1m" LDRs from some random ebay vendor and they did not work well. The tracking control was almost nothing.

      I read a lot of forum and blog posts and saw references to wider range parts, mostly without part numbers and generally from vendors that don't still have them in stock.

      Mouser seems to have only one LDR part, with no real specs. Digikey has half a dozen or so different Luna parts with datasheets, though they cost almost $2/ea.

      So I got the widest range LDR they had, that I could see anyway, and the brightest through-hole LED that emits close to it's most sensitive range.

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    4. you are the man/women for the info, I just finished putting mine together today and it worked on the first testcuch to my suprise. I used the ldr"led combo I mentioned and I get vary little variation when toggling the speed or wace controls. Ill try using an LDR with a greater range as you reccomend. maybe Ill do an experiment using a ton of different combos. Ill let you know the results.

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    5. Here's a quick demo of my pedal, right after I got it assembled, before I really had any idea how to use it. I've got plenty of range on the speed and wonder if this design would be improved by a log pot for the speed control

      I'm less sure of the wave control, I will have to compare it to videos of the real thing.

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    6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0tFSdL4MwI

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  33. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  34. Correcting my previous advice:

    Wire "footswitch ground" to the same lug on your foot switch as you attach the ground leg of your LED. While following the diagram in the general layout notes.

    This turns off the LFO when the effect is bypassed.

    That's good, because the LFO ticks like a mother. I didn't notice when it was the only pedal hooked up, but if you also hook up an OCD or a BMP or something else high gain, you will hear the LFO. Even if this pedal is only connected to the same power as the other pedals (with input and output disconnected)

    Antonio Chua's suggestion to isolate the LFO power by cutting the trace to pin 8 of the opamp and inserting a 200 ohm resistor, as well as giving the LFO it's own reserve power between pins 4 and 8, is a good one. This reduces the LFO tick by a lot, but does not eliminate it for me.

    The choice of dual opamp does not appear to matter. I'm not sure if a tl062 or tl022 or other "low power" part would do the job of driving the LEDs, but any normal low-dollar dual part seems to do the same job. I rolled a few through there including 5532, tl072, and 4556 (3x the speed and current of a 4558) and it did not seem to make any difference at all.

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