This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.

Friday, February 12, 2016

Black Arts Toneworks Pharaoh

Happy #FuzzFriday, everybody! The Pharaoh is a variation of the classic Big Muff circuit, and one of the best out there. It features a modified tone stack with an added highs control. There are also 2 toggle switches added, one that switches between 2 resistors at the input, and one that switches the clipping diodes of the 2nd gain stage. This last switch allows you to select standard silicon diodes, asymmetrical germanium diodes, or no diodes at all. I've added a pull down resistor to the PCB side in case you encounter switch popping. It might fit in a 1590B, but if it were me, I'd feel more comfortable with a 125B. Speaking of which, here's the drilling template for a 125B.




Edit: Q1 should be an MPSA18 and Q2-4 are 2N5089s.

40 comments:

  1. Yesssss !!!! Thank youuu !! Q1 - Q4 ?

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  2. thanks for the layout , impeccable as always

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  3. Verified!!! This thing is loud...be aware that you may have to sort a few 5089's other wise this thing will oscillate and squeal.

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    1. This may be the fastest verify ever. Thanks!

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  4. Changed Q1 to MPSA18. well worth the swap.

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  5. D7 and D7 are 1N4001 on the original.

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  6. Hi!

    I suspect those yellow 10UF's are tantalum?
    Just asking because not sure about the orientation, can someone give a little help with those. Otherwise done with the whole build.

    Thanks.

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  7. yea, the negative leg of the first 10uF in the signal path(the bottom one)goes from the 39K/390K resistors. The upper one's negative leg goes next to pad 3 of the volume pot.

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  8. Wow, that was fast. Thank you very very much.
    I can start designing the graphics of the box soon. \o/

    Cheers.

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  9. Another nice build! I replaced the input hi/low switch with a b500k pot like on the supreme version, which I would recommend, as it works brilliantly.

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  10. Im new to electronics and Im guessing that If the power input says +9, it needs a powersource with +9v center, but if it says just 9 its negative center.... right?

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    1. No a standard pedal supply is center negative. +9v means you connect the positive terminal of either the dc jack or battery to that pad. Check this out:

      http://neunaber.net/blogs/brian-s-notes/13849473-pedal-power-basics

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  11. Many Thanks for this circuit!!! Just one question: where can I find the Transfer Image?? I cannot find it in the library...

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  12. Would you be able to do one for the supreme version of this pedal? I can't imagine there are too many differences.

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  13. can't find the 5817 anywhere in my local area, is there any reccomended substitute for it?

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    1. That one's for polarity protection. You can use a 1N4001 or even a 1N4148

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    2. Ah, I see.. Thanks for the reply!

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  14. Hi.. I found that there are slightly different placement between the perf and the pcb layouts. The 100k with 1k resistors beside the higher tantallum and the 470pF ceramic with the 470k resistor beside the lower tantallum are swapped. Will it affect the circuit or not?

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    1. The connects are the same, just the placement of the parts are a bit different. If you're building this on perf follow the left side of the image. If you're building on PCB follow the right side.

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  15. Can LEDs be used instead of diodes on this board and the Qs 2&4 be swept for 2N1308s similar to a EQD Hoof?? Also how would you connect a 6 way switch instead of the 3way to mimic the supreme? Great work!!

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  16. I recommend to use 500k pot instead a on/off/on switch in the clipping selector.
    This is the method used in the Swollen Pickle MKII.
    :-)

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  17. Are you sure there must be all the pots B-type????

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    1. You can use log pots instead for fuzz and volume pots if you want. The tone control pots are definitely lin though.

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    2. just need to know if B type makes smooth control of fuzz and volume

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    3. Both A and B types were used in original big muffs. Smoothness isn't going to be affected by the taper of the pots. The schematic I based the layout on didn't specify the tapers. I think the tagboard layout says A types for fuzz and volume. YMMV

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    4. My humble experience: in the gain pot it's the same, due the amount of gain and where's the pot located.
      Not the same for volume: it must be audio taper due the function and location, at the end/output of the circuit as voltage divider.

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    5. Okey, will try on weekend. Thanks for layout, it's prefect!!

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  18. There is a little difference with resistor 2M... What for is it??

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    1. It's an optional pulldown resistor so the effect doesn't pop when the footswitch is engaged.

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  19. I only have left to get the 10uf capacitors...and its impossible.

    Can I use electrolytics, with the (-) facing in the direction of ground?

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    1. Yeah that should be fine. Orient the - side of the top one towards Vol 3, and - side of the bottom one towards the 39k/390k resistors.

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  20. Hi and tanks for the nice info compiled here.
    I wonder about the clipping caps values. The schematic from bug muff page have 47nF instead of 470nF here.
    Have you noticed that ? I guess it has an influence on sound but did not try it...

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