This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.

Monday, August 29, 2016

Valve Wizard Equinox II

Here's a reverb circuit that doesn't require a Belton brick–the Equinox II by Valve Wizard. It uses 2, PT2399 delay chips with a pretty standard input/output buffer built around a TL072. The original uses a J112 for switching the tails function, but I've simplified that with a just DPDT footswitch. Use one side of the DPDT for turning the reverb on/off, and the other side for LED indication. If you don't want/need tails with your reverb, just jumper the 2 switch pads. It's gonna be a snug fit in a 1590B, but it will fit.




I was able to verify this over the weekend and it works great and will fit nicely in a 1590B.







54 comments:

  1. new project is started right now.
    AWESOME as usual!

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  2. That looks great! Has this one still tails and if so, would you mind sharing yout modified schematic? It really itches me to mould this one into a 1590a.
    Thanks a lot!

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    1. I didn't actually modify the schematic. Just used the one that's on the web and replaced the J113 with a switch. I think you'll be hard pressed to fit this in a 1590A with through-hole components. Would love to be proven wrong tho. ;)

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    2. I have got a whole lot of SMD pt2399, so I guess I'll be cheating a little....

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  3. I can use 78L05 instead of 7805 ? since the size of 7805 and greater than the pinning

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  4. How do I change back the switch to the original J112?

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    1. You'll have to get a little creative. Connect the drain to the Sw2 pad, the source to Sw1 pad, and then use the daughter board from the Valve Wizard Flanger layout to connect the extra components along with the gate of the J112. Honestly it'll be much easier to just use the DPDT footswitch with this layout. Unless you're doing perf, you can always use Valve Wizard's original PCB layout. You won't hurt my feelings. Honest. ;)

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    2. Thanks for the reply!! I have finished building this according to your layout, but unfortunately I still have a little problem with it. It worked, but somehow doesn't really affect the output sound. I will have to trace it later.

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    3. same problem here, I've changed the regulator twice and one of the ICs
      still don't effect the output sound

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    4. Have you boxed it up? Are you using the tails bypass or wiring it for true bypass? If you're doing the typical true bypass, jumper the 2 switch pads on the left side of the board.

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    5. I haven't boxed it up, just connected the in and out directly to guitar and amp to test it. Ah, and I already jumpered the tail switch.

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  5. I just built this one, the etched PCB version. It works really well, thanks for the layout!

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  6. from what I see in your verified prototype the 1nf is tantalum, is that right? If so how about the orientation?

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  7. I just tested my build and it sounds like there's a feedback loop, like a never-ending delay feedback. Had anybody got a clue what can cause this? I searched for the usual suspects. Changed ic's, looked for bad joints, bridges and such but I can't find an obvious cause.

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  8. The photo montage with this Split By pass ?

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  9. The yes of course, but do not run the risk of losing signal on the set of pedals?

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    Replies
    1. It's a good quality buffer, not like the crappy ones in Boss pedals. If anything it'll improve your signal path.

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  10. I'm boxing this one up and I have a little hitch. The effect and switching work perfectly until I put the cover on the 1590b case (the inside of the case is lined with rubber electrical tape). It shorts out. I tried to use your off board wiring photo as my guide, but maybe I've got an extra ground connection that's causing this. I know it's something simple but I just can't seem to figure it out! I have dc power jack ground going to output sleeve, which is connected to the input sleeve, also connected to pin 5 of the dpdt. The LED cathode is connected to pin 4 of the dpdt. LED anode is connected to dc jack positive pole via CLR. Switch 1 and 2 wires are connected appropriately to poles 1 and 2 of the dpdt. Am I doing something wrong? Help is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance if anyone has the time to chime in.

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    1. Nm, got it figured out. Thanks again for this useful layout.

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    2. Here are some photos:
      http://aishaloe.tumblr.com/post/151675366598/this-here-is-a-clone-of-the-valve-wizard-equinox

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  11. hallo!
    Can I use other things diode?
    5817→????

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  12. Congrats for the great work!
    But I didn't understand very well the use of the DPDT.
    You said "one side of the DPDT for turning the reverb on/off".
    How could I do that?
    Should I connect the pads SW1 and SW2 at the DPDT? When the DPDT connects SW1 & SW2 the effect is on; and when DPDT disconnect them the effect is off?
    And in the case I jumper SW1 and SW2 (definitely, at the pcb), I must wire the circuit like the commom wiring 3PDT (true bypass)?
    Is that it?
    Thanks for attention and sorry about my english.

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    Replies
    1. You've got it figured out. And your English is just fine :)

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  13. how can i wire this thing out? no sound at all.. can i use a 3pdt switch for this one?

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    Replies
    1. If you want to use a 3PDT, jumper the 2 switch pads on the board and wire it normally.

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  14. I built this and it works, but there is a significant slapback type of sound if I play individual strings. Playing full chords it kind of blends in, but am I supposed to hear that slapback type of delay when playing single notes? It didn't sound like that in the sound demo video to my ears.

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    1. Well, it's 2 delay chips set at different short delay times. So it's really just faking the reverb sound since it's really just a fixed delay. I noticed the slapback in my build as well on short, staccato notes. That's just what you're gonna get with this type of reverb (same goes for the Ersatz Verben).

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    2. Ok cool. I just wanted to make sure I didn't mess up the build. It doesn't sound like I did.Thanks!

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  15. Ive moded it by adding a pot instead of the 15k resistor. i initialy used a trimmer (20k)there to let me dial in on the gap between the two pt's but i like experimenting so i used a 50k pot cause thats what i had. i 20k - 25k pot would have been enough.
    .

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  16. I built this without the tails and it sounds great, but now I want to add the tails now. Do I just remove the jumper from sw1 and sw2 and use a dpdt instead of a 3pdt or does something else get connected to sw1 and sw2? I just want to make sure I understand how to correctly do this.

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    Replies
    1. You've got it figured out. Just connect those 2 pads to the footswitch and then the board in and out to the in/out jacks. You can still use a 3PDT, you'll just not use a third of it.

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    2. Thanks! I was able to wire it to the 3pdt and still get the tails. Great layout as always!

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  17. Good afternoon guys, I rode this project equinox II, but the effect is too subtle, I did with pcb The Valve Wizard and in this Perf and PCB Effects Layout and both the effect is very light, I wonder if there is a possibility to increase this effect, I think mine is correct but the intensity did not please me, it does not come close to youtube reviews. I count on your help.

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    1. Have you tried replacing the PT2399s? They can be inconsistent.

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    2. I will test other pt2399 pairs and report the result.

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  18. Hi, my friend, I'd like to have a question about the wiring.
    So I saw the wires SW1 and SW2 connected to the left side of the switch, and the input and output connected to the correct jacks?

    If I am wrong you can put a diagram explaining this link, please, thank you in advance for your greetings from Brazil

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  19. Great master, thank you for everything, I do not know what we would do without you. hug

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  20. i decide to do this project,but why its sound like helicopter,there an never ending delay,even when im turn the pot little bit,and not connected to guitar,what is really my problem ?,thx

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    1. Try replacing your PT2399s. They can be really finicky.

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    2. i replace it,and check them both,the ic seems ok,also check and replace the opamp,yet still same problem,i replace the 10M resistor with 4,7M connected series,is that really the problem?,thx

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    3. Update : finally get rid the "helicopter" sound,after resoldering the connection with all the cables and changing the pot,but it disappeared only if i turn the pot to the max and get nice reverb,below that the "helicopter" sound still exist,

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  21. Sorry use translator
    I would like to clarify the exact values of the capacitors of the liststa (voltages) only figure uF value and if it is electrolitico, polarized, ceramic or "box-film"
    Thank you very much from Santiago de Chile sudamerica .... country of tremors ...
    Torreuno@gmail.com

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  22. Replies
    1. Have you tried swapping out the PT2399s?

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    2. Yes, I did. I changed eight times... Can be the value (volt) of the caps?

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