This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.
Happy Fuzz Friday everyone! The Hyper Fuzz is Boss's take on the Univox Super Fuzz with a load of modifications. Schematic for reference here. Fits nicely in a 1590BB.
Build the perf version and it works on first attempt. Just need to know how to correctly wire the 3x4 rotary switch as I got no clean boost but only the 2 fuzz.
Wire the common lug of your rotary to the Sw2 pad, then connect Sw4 pad to the first lug of the rotary for boost, Sw1 pad to the next lug for full, and Sw6 pad to the 3rd lug for scooped.
Hey guy, can you make an layout version of this pedal? https://youtu.be/RqU0Gf0Thck if think this a classic jcm emulator layout... I need a verified version of this, can you help me? This is the best marshall in a box ever, with a great cranked sound. THX!
Hey i am new to pedals and electronics, i just wanted to ask how do you know what voltage to use on capacitors from a schematic or a veroboard layout like this
For most pedals that run on 9v power... yes, that would be OK. If you built a pedal that could also take 18v, you need to use capacitors that are rated HIGHER than the voltages running in the circuit. Make sense? That way your caps don't get damaged by taking more power than they can handle. You really need to check what kind of circuit you are building and then choose the parts that are good for that pedal.
I highly recommend that you check out some of the "beginner" resources that are available on other sites. They will probably help answer many of those newbie questions. Here are a few good ones:
This is probably not a good pedal to start with. David's layouts are way easier to deal with than many out there, but still... this is not exactly a simple build. A Fuzz Face or the Acapulco Gold posted in the Coda-Effects page would be a better starting point.
bc550 - exellent choice! Use better rotary switch instead on/on/on. like this https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2-12-Position-Rotary-Switch-With_60248654566.html?spm=a2700.7735675.normalList.109.6fb3f936SpUOjH&s=p&fullFirstScreen=true
Hi David! So far, seems like those who have verified this have used rotary switches.
I'm putting this together with the DPDT on-on-on switch and I think the last thing that's needed is jumper lugs 3 and 5 together (to connect the two sides of the switch). Otherwise the switch wiring numbers are good per your layout diagram.
Thanks Marcello, that helped a lot, but I'm still not getting a very good quality fuzz out of this circuit. Can you post your voltages for Q1-4? The way my circuit is sounding I think something isn't biased correctly.
1) Is there a way that I can you a dpdt on/on switch to toggle between fuzz 1 and fuzz 2 mode?
I can't find a on/on/on switch in my country and i can't buy online because is a pain in the ass. Also, i really don't care about the boost mode.
2) Is it ok if i don't add the 5817 diode? I have a 9v negative power supply, so there's no way I can plug another power adapter. Or is the diode important that also works on the power supply for the pedal?
Good articles for question 2 not sure about question 1 https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=27360.0 https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=118554.0
hey on the switch question...why don't you just try it and see what happens? just solder wires to circuit board then use a breadboard to test various switches you have laying around. also dont forget to cut the trace after 47pf from pin 7 of TL072 as described above. also some builders use a rotary switch instead of a toggle switch..rock on bro!
Precisely, this was the connection made by me, but the position 1 and 2 of the switch sounds exactly the same. hence the question. Thank you for your help.
Hello, it is not the Boss Hyper fuzz fz2, this circuit is different (Hyped fuzz), it would be very good to do the original. Thank you. Sorry for my English.
I can't get the clean boost either from the wiring above, from jumping the DPDT pins 3 and 5, or from Marcello's suggestion of cutting the trace after the 47pF cap next to pin 7 of the TL072. Cutting that trace and jumping the 3 and 5 give me great fuzz tones, but two of the three selections are identically the mid-range, "unscooped" fuzz. I did manage to get a clean boost from jumping pins 3 and 1, but I lost one of the other fuzzes on the DPDT switch when doing so. So I'm just going to switch out this on-on-on DPDT for a two-way on-on one and call it a day unless anyone has another suggestion for getting all three tones.
Also, the Hyper Fuzzed schematic shows a 10k resistor between pin 7 on the TL072 and the 33nF cap, which leads into ground. Cutting that trace between pin 7's 47pF and the 33nF by itself doesn't accurately replicate PedalPCB's schematic. I'm not well versed in reading schematics, but I'm thinking cut that trace but add a 10k resistor between the 47pF and 33nF, and jumper the 47pF to the other 10k and 10uF above it?
LOL, okay. It's been two years, but I figured it out after wanting to build another one of these. With a 3PDT, on-on-on switch in which the middle position connects pins 1 & 2, and 5 & 6 (separately), the pin marked sw6 in the layout gets connected to pin 1, sw1 gets connected to pin 3 (or vice-versa, it doesn't matter as these are both different fuzzes). However, sw4 gets connected to pin 5, and pins 1 & 6 get a jumper between them. This will make the middle position your clean tone as that position connects pins 1 & 2, and 5 & 6 (with 1 and 6 now jumpered), and the other two positions the two different fuzzes.
good sound this fuzz
ReplyDeleteIs posible, solodallas TSR??
ReplyDeleteIf there's a schematic out there, maybe
Deleteis it? http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/file/n47718/03C46C52-677F-40BA-9A56-9DDF0ED5652C.png
Deletefounded this https://www.freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=33555&sid=511c1c2052927123c1448b938d189cca&mode=view
DeletePlease can you show how you are numbering the lugs on the switch?
ReplyDeleteShould be:
Delete1--4
2--5
3--6
Check out the General Layout Notes tab
DeleteOh and you'll need a type 2 switch btw
Deletehttps://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41UKdtSjQNL._AC_.jpg
This comment has been removed by the author.
Deletei realy wanted to do this fuzz! & this is some kind of holiday today!Will make it from monday!Thank you, David very much.
ReplyDeleteSo cool! Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteGreat layout, will build it soon but replacing the switch with a rotary
ReplyDeleteBuild the perf version and it works on first attempt. Just need to know how to correctly wire the 3x4 rotary switch as I got no clean boost but only the 2 fuzz.
ReplyDeleteWire the common lug of your rotary to the Sw2 pad, then connect Sw4 pad to the first lug of the rotary for boost, Sw1 pad to the next lug for full, and Sw6 pad to the 3rd lug for scooped.
DeleteThanks for your help. You can mark it as verified.
DeleteDavid, Gain 2,3 go to the 6 TLo72, but have to go 7 leg!
ReplyDeletegain didnt work
DeleteFixed!
DeleteThanks!
Deleteso i made it with catch 22! Used rotary swith, its easy. Took bc 549c. hfe 506 -513, you can mark verified!
ReplyDeleteI had rotary switch for 4 points, so i add anonter mode from SW2 to collectors Q2,Q3 & get fourth sound bonus!
ReplyDeleteCan you explain in more detail how you did it?
DeleteMIne https://imgur.com/a/iA06zos
ReplyDeleteHey guy, can you make an layout version of this pedal? https://youtu.be/RqU0Gf0Thck if think this a classic jcm emulator layout... I need a verified version of this, can you help me? This is the best marshall in a box ever, with a great cranked sound. THX!
ReplyDeletehas anyone done this pedal?
DeleteHey i am new to pedals and electronics, i just wanted to ask how do you know what voltage to use on capacitors from a schematic or a veroboard layout like this
ReplyDelete16v or more
Delete16v or more, no matter what pedal or schematic?
DeleteFor most pedals that run on 9v power... yes, that would be OK.
DeleteIf you built a pedal that could also take 18v, you need to use capacitors that are rated HIGHER than the voltages running in the circuit. Make sense? That way your caps don't get damaged by taking more power than they can handle.
You really need to check what kind of circuit you are building and then choose the parts that are good for that pedal.
I highly recommend that you check out some of the "beginner" resources that are available on other sites. They will probably help answer many of those newbie questions. Here are a few good ones:
https://www.coda-effects.com/2018/06/how-to-build-your-first-diy-guitar.html
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/how-to-build-it/technical-help/beginner-information/beginner-information-links/
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/how-to-build-it/technical-help/
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/p/components.html
http://www.pedalhaven.com/everything-need-build-diy-guitar-pedal/
I could keep going, but some Google searches will get you more links and sites to get you going.
I hope that helps. Good luck!
Oh... one last idea.
DeleteThis is probably not a good pedal to start with. David's layouts are way easier to deal with than many out there, but still... this is not exactly a simple build. A Fuzz Face or the Acapulco Gold posted in the Coda-Effects page would be a better starting point.
Thanks so much, I really appreciate it
DeleteCan I use bc550 instead? And I have a couple of toggle switches here from tayda, but from their site it says on/off/on can I use this?
ReplyDeleteBC550C would probably be fine. But on on/off/on is gonna be a kill switch in the middle position.
Deletebc550 - exellent choice! Use better rotary switch instead on/on/on. like this https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2-12-Position-Rotary-Switch-With_60248654566.html?spm=a2700.7735675.normalList.109.6fb3f936SpUOjH&s=p&fullFirstScreen=true
DeleteI Must try this layout ?? hi friend .. one request can you make a layout jhs andy timmon i searched on this site but no 🙏 sorry for my english 🙏
ReplyDeleteHi David! So far, seems like those who have verified this have used rotary switches.
ReplyDeleteI'm putting this together with the DPDT on-on-on switch and I think the last thing that's needed is jumper lugs 3 and 5 together (to connect the two sides of the switch). Otherwise the switch wiring numbers are good per your layout diagram.
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteF*ck yeah! D O P E T H R O N E
ReplyDeleteI using on/on/on dpdt, i thing sw4 must be sw5... Is that correct ?
ReplyDeletetrying to scrounge for parts..looking for a good sub for this diode?(D3 1N5817) would 1n5818 work? thanx
ReplyDeleteYes, the 5818 should be fine. I think the only difference between the 5817 and 5818 is the voltage rating.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThe 10k from pin7 of left TL072 is bypassed. And the 33nf is misplaced.
ReplyDeleteJust cut the trace after 47pf from pin 7 of TL072 and its works awesome.
DeleteOMG ..this worked good for me... wow what a difference. fantastic thanks Marcello you rock! now back to jamming
DeleteP.S. Thanks for all you do!!!!! effectslayouts.blogspot.com
DeleteThanks Marcello, that helped a lot, but I'm still not getting a very good quality fuzz out of this circuit. Can you post your voltages for Q1-4? The way my circuit is sounding I think something isn't biased correctly.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHello everyone! I have two question:
ReplyDelete1) Is there a way that I can you a dpdt on/on switch to toggle between fuzz 1 and fuzz 2 mode?
I can't find a on/on/on switch in my country and i can't buy online because is a pain in the ass. Also, i really don't care about the boost mode.
2) Is it ok if i don't add the 5817 diode? I have a 9v negative power supply, so there's no way I can plug another power adapter. Or is the diode important that also works on the power supply for the pedal?
Thank you!
Juan.
Good articles for question 2 not sure about question 1
ReplyDeletehttps://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=27360.0
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=118554.0
Thank you Trader! :)
DeleteHope someone can answer my first question :D
hey on the switch question...why don't you just try it and see what happens? just solder wires to circuit board then use a breadboard to test various switches you have laying around. also dont forget to cut the trace after 47pf from pin 7 of TL072 as described above. also some builders use a rotary switch instead of a toggle switch..rock on bro!
ReplyDeleteWait... what?! I have to cut what? Why? :o
DeleteI have to cut the trace between pin7 and 47pf? Sorry i didn't understand well :/
I dont understand too, my fuzz dont work... :/ I wanna try to debug this... I should be start with this cut?
Deleteno, this cut isn't the issue if it doesn't work at all.
DeleteI will try again, thank you!
Deletesomeone has a diagram of the installation of these DPDP, I'm a little confused, because a position of the switch is not working.
ReplyDeletehttps://postlmg.cc/FkGRgyBX
ReplyDeletePrecisely, this was the connection made by me, but the position 1 and 2 of the switch sounds exactly the same.
Deletehence the question.
Thank you for your help.
you'll need a type 2 switch btw
ReplyDeletehttps://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41UKdtSjQNL._AC_.jpg
DPDT
ReplyDeleteI build this.. Work well.. Only noise problem when i'm not touch guitar string... Is it normally ??
ReplyDeleteThe layout has a error, I posted how to solve above
DeleteYou mean 47pf and 33nf is don't connect to pin 7TL072 ?
DeleteBc547c will work?
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteHello, it is not the Boss Hyper fuzz fz2, this circuit is different (Hyped fuzz), it would be very good to do the original. Thank you. Sorry for my English.
This is awesome. Thank you so much for this layout. This is the first board I’ve ever etched and I love this pedal, everything works!
ReplyDeleteI can't get the clean boost either from the wiring above, from jumping the DPDT pins 3 and 5, or from Marcello's suggestion of cutting the trace after the 47pF cap next to pin 7 of the TL072. Cutting that trace and jumping the 3 and 5 give me great fuzz tones, but two of the three selections are identically the mid-range, "unscooped" fuzz. I did manage to get a clean boost from jumping pins 3 and 1, but I lost one of the other fuzzes on the DPDT switch when doing so. So I'm just going to switch out this on-on-on DPDT for a two-way on-on one and call it a day unless anyone has another suggestion for getting all three tones.
ReplyDeleteStill a great pedal! Not at all disappointed.
Also, the Hyper Fuzzed schematic shows a 10k resistor between pin 7 on the TL072 and the 33nF cap, which leads into ground. Cutting that trace between pin 7's 47pF and the 33nF by itself doesn't accurately replicate PedalPCB's schematic. I'm not well versed in reading schematics, but I'm thinking cut that trace but add a 10k resistor between the 47pF and 33nF, and jumper the 47pF to the other 10k and 10uF above it?
DeleteLOL, okay. It's been two years, but I figured it out after wanting to build another one of these. With a 3PDT, on-on-on switch in which the middle position connects pins 1 & 2, and 5 & 6 (separately), the pin marked sw6 in the layout gets connected to pin 1, sw1 gets connected to pin 3 (or vice-versa, it doesn't matter as these are both different fuzzes). However, sw4 gets connected to pin 5, and pins 1 & 6 get a jumper between them. This will make the middle position your clean tone as that position connects pins 1 & 2, and 5 & 6 (with 1 and 6 now jumpered), and the other two positions the two different fuzzes.
DeleteNext on my build list.
ReplyDeleteLet us see what happens.