This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.

Thursday, June 20, 2019

Music Man StingRay Preamp

Had several requests for on-board bass preamps and what better place to start than the original StingRay circuit? Simple 2 band-EQ with low current draw and should be small enough to tuck into the control cavity of whatever bass you're wanting to add it to. Other single opamps can be used, but the current draw may increase, draining your 9v battery quicker. For example a TL071 draws 10x the current of the LM4250. A good replacement would be the LT1351.

36 comments:

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    1. el preamp esta completo y listo para armar? no le faltan componentes?

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  2. Any suggestions for replacing the lm4250, lt1351? I'm not finding these opamps in Brazil.

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    1. You can still use a TL071, LM741 or similar single opamp. It will draw more current but you should still get pretty good battery life as an 071 is not a battery hog by any means. And batteries have come a long way since this circuit was first designed.

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    2. Can I use a TL061 for this project?

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  3. any chance of sabre II? thanks.. from the philippines.. ��

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  4. If i would add a "mid control" it is possible on this circuit?

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  5. Can we use this circuit as external pedal for bass? or it must fit in bass guitar only? i am very much interested to make external pedal so i can use this pedal on different guitars.

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  6. Hello;
    How would this compare to the Barcus Berry?
    Thanks.

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    1. The Barcus Berry is designed for piezo pickups, whereas this was designed for magnetic pickups.

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  7. You can mark this as verified.

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  8. The coupling capacitors are wrong. The input cap is 1uF and output is 10uF. They aren't both .1uF. If the caps are that low no bass is getting through

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    1. Both caps are shown as 1uF and follow Bajaman's schematic. Perhaps the - symbol is throwing you off? If you're building this, feel free to experiment with values and tweak it to what sounds good to you.

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    2. I'm experiencing weird crackling noise. Using TL071 and LM741 without the 1.5M resistor at pin 8. Any idea what are causing the noise?

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    3. Bajaman's original schematic was wrong. There's a typo. The output cap is 10uF. If you look on his original image with the schematic on the left and the diagram of the original circuit you'll see the correct capacitor there. He's also confirmed this in the thread.

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  9. Verified, I did it and it works perfect. use tl071, the bass pot is perfect.
    The pot of treble does not feel so much the difference between the minimum and maximum. I would like it to have a little more brightness, can any value be modified? Thank you

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  10. Para utilizar un TL071 o Lm741 se debe retirar la resistencia de 1.5M?

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  11. how to connect control this circuit can you give image please

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  12. I can't find some some capacitor values (120 pf and 510 pf) it is wise to change it to a lower or higher values (ex 100/150 pf for the 120pf, and 470/560 pf for the 510 pf)? or should i add it , say 100pf +20 pf and connect them in series?

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    1. I'd probably go with the slightly higher values.

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    2. Those capacitors are all over Ebay

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    3. ebay is more expensive for me, i'm ordering from tayda electronics, thanks for answering

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  13. If I can't find a 500 pf, what could I replace it with?
    greetings from México

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  14. I'm having some trouble with a crackling noise that comes and goes.

    I built it and it sounds awesome, but there is a crackling noise that appears from time to time, sometimes just a little, sometimes a lot.

    I tried with the 071 and 741 op amps, and it's the same thing. The only thing that I changed is the 500pf cap for a 560pf but I think that shouldn't affect.

    Any suggestions?

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