This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.

Monday, January 23, 2017

Earthquaker Devices The Depths

Kicking off the week with a fantastic vibe box from Earthquaker Devices–The Depths. It gave me a bit of a fight to get the pots board mounted and as a result there are 5 jumpers O_O. But it sounds great and you should build it.

Ahoy! Welcome to your new Depths Optical Vibe Machine! The Depths is our take on the classic optical vibe circuit. Now you can swab the decks with the same lush, pulsating, three-dimensional swirling sound you know and love, with some modern accouterments for all you land-lubbers out there.
The Depths is optimized for use with all kinds of instruments, pickups, and to play well with dirt, so nobody’s left waiting on shore. If it’s got a ¼” output, plug it in and get deep!




46 comments:

  1. we don't care about the jumpers!!!!
    THANK YOU

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  2. I love this pedal, thanks so much for this. Never tried anything with LDR's before.

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  3. Excellent!! i build to Taggboard effects and your sounds is really good!!

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  4. guys led 5mm clear green works very nice!
    Led white or red 5mm also, but colour green for me is THE LED!

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  5. F+ck yeah!!!!!
    You're awesome, guys
    Thanks

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  6. Should I tilt the LDR's inward to face the led?

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    1. A little unclear about how to connect LDRs with the LED. I have a phaser pedal in which red LEDs are sandwiched in between 2 LDRs, then covered in black tape to light proof them. Is that how this should be done? Also should a second LED be used as a status indicator?

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  7. I´m so glad to see this layout. Thank you very much, so anxious to start with it!!

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  8. Nice! Def gonna give this a go. Thanks for another awesome layout.

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  9. Awesome layout! thank you!!
    Would it be possible to make a speed up / speed down footswitch mod like on a Leslie?

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    1. Easiest way to do that would probably be to use 2 different Rate pots and wire a switch between the pads on the board and the 2 pots. Kind of a pain since it's a dual-gang pot, but you'd just ground lugs 1 and 2 of both gangs/pots, then wire the lug 3 pads on the board to the middle 2 lugs of a DPDT (lugs 2 and 5 on the switch). Then wire the top 2 lugs of the DPDT (lugs 1 and 4) to the 2 lug 3s of one dual-gang, and the bottom 2 lugs of the DPDT (lugs 3 and 6) to the 2 lug 3s of the other dual-gang. Then you have control over fast and slow speeds and can select between them. Not sure how quickly the LFO would adjust to different rate settings, so there may not be a slower acceleration from one speed to the other. Definitely something to experiment with.

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    2. Nicee! So... In this way, it looks like kinda the scheme of JHS Honeycomb deluxe... awesome!

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  10. Tag this as verified. Just finished building it and try different transistors. I settled for 2n4401 on Q1 and 2n3906 on Q2. For the led i used green superbright. Thanks man, it's awesome!!!

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    1. Sure you used a 2N3906? ;-) It's an PNP while the layout calls for a hi gain NPN like a MPSA18. Also verified it after some initial debugging. Tried a low current green LED and a superbright green LED. While the superbright gave me more usuabel range on the voice control I thinks its a tad too much. So maybe try a bigger pot value for the voice? Any schematic would be definetely helpfull to figure that out - but I've been too lazy so far to google it. :D

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    2. Here's the schematic.

      http://imgur.com/a/qZy30

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    3. Thank you very much! Looks like a bigger pot value might do it for my choice of LDRs and LED. :)

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  11. A small nota bene: The indicated 150nF cap should be 15nF (likewise in every univibe workalike). ;-)

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  12. Working on!
    For dual rate options, I'm thinking to put a DPDT footswitch, to select from the board between both pins 3 in the potentiometers. Pins 2 and 1 of both dual-gang pots connected to board.
    I'm right?

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    1. Why not go further and implement a external µ-controller-based lfo that can do several waveforms and tap tempo. but that probably would end up in a total different beast...

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    2. Yes, I was thinking in some kind of external multiple-options control too. But it will take off all the simplicity.
      Maybe in the second build I'll left room for upgrades :D

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    3. Very true! Also you would have to simulate the non-perfect waveform of the original vibe. Haven't seen that done before. But should be doable.

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  13. This site is marvelous! Greetings from Chile!

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  14. How much power will be 9 or 18 volts, because the original is 9 - 18?

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  15. You can use an 18v supply, assuming you build it with appropriately rated parts. But there isn't a charge pump built into the circuit or anything.

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  16. I build it and it works fine, I used BC549Cs with HFE = 540
    the only issue is that the LFO stops when the intensity pot is maxed, what is the element (component) that can control this attenuation ?

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    1. mine does that too and also when i bring it super slow

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    2. I fixed the problem, Q2 needs to be hi gain transistor , a found an NPN laying around with HFE =1400 (assuming Q1 has HFE =540)
      works perfectley with intensity pot maxed

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    3. MPSA13/KSP13 would be great

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    4. it's OK... Q1=mspa18 nad Q2:bc517(darlington trans)

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  17. What kind of LDRs work well?

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  18. can i raplace the 5817 with an 4007?

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  19. I do not know why, but it did not work fine.

    I have tried a lot of transistors: MPSA13, 2N4401, BC548, 2N3904 ... but not MPSA18.
    That's the problem?

    The led flashes, and when it blinks, the effect is weak.

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  20. A little unclear about how to connect LDRs with the LED. I have a phaser pedal in which red LEDs are sandwiched in between 2 LDRs, then covered in black tape to light proof them. Is that how this should be done? Also should a second LED be used as a status indicator?

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    1. You can cover that network of LDRs and LED, but originals aren't, relying on the enclosure to keep things dark. And you can connect a 2nd LED for rate indication, but if you do that, I'd definitely advise to isolate the LDRs and the other LED.

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  21. Oh I see, I meant a second LED for the stomp switch indicator, but yeah I see that there is another position on the PCB for that one. Also I may just leave the LDRs and LED open in the dark enclosure since that is how it is intended, and see if that works. But thanks for the quick response, I'll let you know how it comes out!

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  22. Does anyone have a gut shot of this?

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