This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.

Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Klon Centaur

Don't want to spend two grand on an original? Yeah, me neither. Regarded as one of the best overdrives of all time, the Klon Centaur seems to be something that every guitarist wants on their board. This one's not going to fit in a 1590B (if you want that, check out Madbean's Kingslayer), but you might have enough room in a 125B if you turn the board sideways. This layout follows the original Centaur with buffered bypass (using a DPDT footswitch). If you want to wire it for true bypass, ignore the footswitch wiring pads, and eliminate the 4.7µ cap, 560Ω and 100k resistors on the lower right side of the board near the input. Schematic and more info can be found here.



UPDATE:
For those confused by the footswitch wiring for non-true bypass, here's a wiring diagram for reference.

42 comments:

  1. Is it possible to draw with 555? Or any advise if I'm use 555 charge pump instead of 7660/1044.
    Thank you.

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    1. My suggestion would be to just get a 7660/1044. I don't know a ton about the 555, but from what I've seen online, it's not going to be a good fit in the power section of the Centaur—not sure it'll do positive and negative at the same time like the 7660/1044. I could be wrong, like I said I don't know a ton about the 555. There is a DIY version of the Centaur without the charge pump that plan to layout soon, so keep an eye out for that.

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    2. Thanks for suggestion. I'll try to get those ICs in my local area. If I can't, I'll wait the version without charge pump. Anyway, thank you for your efforts.

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    3. 555 definitely won't straight substitute as a charge pump. The 555 is a timer IC that can be used to build a voltage doubler with some additional circuitry.

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  2. Hi, you forgot to add 2 holes for 4742 under 47uf cap for pcb layout

    Thanks anyway

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for catching that. It's been updated.

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    2. Hi!
      Sorry, but i see no update.

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  3. Okay, i've tried it 2 times and it's not working. I added 4742, but nothing changes.

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    1. The only thing that is functional is buffer. It definitely buffers.

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    2. Gonna need more info if you want help troubleshooting. I've gone over the layout with the schematic several times, so I'm mostly sure it's correct.

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    3. Sure, i'll try my best. Can you suggest any further steps?

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    4. Check your voltages coming off the charge pump, as well as the pins of the other two ICs. Have you gone over the board with a multimeter making sure you don't have a short somewhere?

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    5. No, i found no shortages, pcb is quite clean (http://i.imgur.com/iCo6A1f.jpg)

      Voltages:

      tl072 (left)
      1: 14.25
      2: 4.06
      3: 4.31
      4: -7.48
      5: 14.86
      6: -6.11
      7: 4.8
      8: 4.3

      tl072 (bottom)
      1: 4.3
      2: 4.3
      3: 3.7 drops to 3.3
      4: 0.0
      5: 7.73
      6: 7.13
      7: 4.36
      8: 4.62

      7066
      1: 7.69
      2: 3.84
      3: 0.0
      4: -3.67
      5: 7.67
      6: 5.78
      7: 3.78
      8: -7.35

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    6. Nice etch! Voltages seem a little off. Check this thread on FSB for proper voltages:

      http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=6630&hilit=Klon+pin+voltages&sid=718a44d8ce8bf8699a81d618b091e753

      The biggest issue tho, is my fault. Pin 7 of the left TL072 isn't getting signal. The perf side of the layout (which is what I layout first, then copy and adapt for PCB) is ok, but somewhere along the line the that connection on the PCB got disconnected. That's fixed now. But to fix your board, jumper these two pads and see if that does the trick. Sorry about that!

      http://s14.postimg.org/yq5v45r7l/i_Co6_A1f.jpg

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    7. Thanks! I've added the jumper and now it sounds like a low gain overdrive, even it's clone - EHZ soulfood sounds more gainy. Drive pot also needs to reversed since it adds virtually no gain at 5 o'clock.

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    8. Fixed the lug numbers for the drive pot. Again, compare your voltages as that might be why it's not as high gain. The far left opamp is IC2 in the schematic/voltage readings, FYI.

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  4. hi, my build have a permanently bizz sound , and not have saturation , if i set gain pot all way up , the sound is only clean . not have shortcut . i build another but i have same problem , ic is tl072 and 7660 , i tried opa2604 but have the same result .

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    Replies
    1. Have you gone through it with an audio probe?

      http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html

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    2. yes , now work well , but i have the high frequency noise from icl7660 ... i build 2 circuit and have same problem , hiss sound ( high frequency oscillation noise)

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    3. Try increasing the 1µF caps just below the 7660 to 10µF and the 47µF cap above and the 7660 to 100µF. You may need to add a 100nF cap from 9v to ground too.

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  5. the problem is ic 7660 , because i change it with max 1044... result....0 noise

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  6. In think that ic should be ICL7660SCPA, especially with suffix SCPA. I don´t have build this yet, but sure I will! Maybe with Silver Edition changes: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2014/07/klon-centaur-silver-edition.html#comment-form

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  7. now have the pop switch sound .... shit !

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  8. Hi Storyboardist,
    first, thanks a lot for your work.
    Is there any way to get the perfboard files ? Which software are you using ?
    I'm really interested in them (and not in the pcbs) as I am using obsolete components I need to resize the layout and do some modifications and I really would like to reuse instead of re-design...
    Thanks in advance

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    Replies
    1. Shoot me an email. Address is in the general layout notes tab in the comments

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  9. Hi
    Built it and it works
    Strange hiss at high settings. Think it is the 7660
    thank you
    joe

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  10. Hi! I tried twice do this pcb but never works. Don't have sound. I tested all components before solder then but not work (until i used the exactly MAX1044, same diodes and resistors 1% metal film). This symbol in capacitors (like a minus -) represents the positive side of the capacitors? That elliptic 1uF capacitor near to jumper, it's tantalum capacitor? In dual gang potentiometer, the "A" is the pin near to the shaft or is like this (http://www.bcae1.com/images/jpegs/potentiometerradioshack01.jpg)? If this pinout of the potentiometer's wrong is possible to have no sound? Thanks a lot bro. Salute from Brazil (HUEHUE BR BR)

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    Replies
    1. The negative (-) symbol represents the negative side of the capacitor. That's probably why your build isn't working. If you followed the lettering of the pot diagram you posted it should be fine. And yes, that elliptic 1µ cap is a tantalum, but an electrolytic can also be used.

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  11. Well, as thanks proof, I've created a Spreadsheet with the parts list for this pedal. I'm willing to do the same with all projects that I'm building

    here it is, let me know if something is wrong or missing

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1L4bpWkDy8o08zsZMMUzvqO2itxqFvGtfNPFi0ZQbi_g/edit?usp=sharing

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  12. Hello
    I did not understand the explanation of the key.
    If I want to use classic 3PDT what should I do with this scheme?

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  13. Hi! I wanted to ask if it is posible that I'm getting only clean signal (no overdrive, and pots not working) because I used an LT1054 insted of Max1044, or because I used a 1uf Metal film cap (Blue Epcos) insted of tantalum or electro? Already checked for shorts and solder joints...Thanks in advance!!!

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    Replies
    1. I wouldn't think charge pump would be the problem as long as it's outputting the proper voltages. And the cap also shouldn't matter. Have you tried going over your build with an audio probe?

      http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html

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    2. Thanks for your answer. Made the Audio probe and I'm learning tons of stuff while I trake the audio path with the schematic, but I still have more questions then answers...Is it posible that the two 1N34A from these diagram/Layput need to be inversed? I was checking with the Tru bypass version, and they seem to have anode and katode inverted...What I found with the probe is that I can here the Tone pot working, but only clean signal. Same with volume pot, no overdrive...

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    3. The diodes most likely aren't the issue, unless you have bad diodes. They're hard clippers in this circuit and as long as one anode goes to ground and the other cathode goes to ground.

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    4. I could trace the signal pad, and found something interesting: it seems the gain pot is reversed, and by turning the pot counterclockwise I can hear the overdriven sound coming out of Pin 7 from Ic2 (The one at the left), sound remains until It reaches that 392k resistor...after that resistor I can hear no sound...Already checked for shorts, and replaced that resistor...I think I'm getting closer but still need your help!

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    5. I can also hear at a much lower volume overdriven sound from the pat after that 47k resistor coming from pin 6 that goes to FtSw6..

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    6. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    7. Even closer....I get loud overdriven signal at footswitch 3 ( that goes to volume 2) and also at Ftsw6. Connecting the pedal with regular cable from pedal to amp, I can hear the clean signal, and an almost imperceptible overdrive sound..

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  14. mark this as verified but the footswitch wiring is wrong
    swap volume 2 with fswpad1 cause they are reversed
    and in effect mode we have bypass
    and in bypass effect
    please redraw it thanks
    cheers from greece

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  15. Thanks Mitsos, you saved my life :-), swaped volume 2 with fswpad and everything is fine!
    Thanks Effects Layout and storyboardist

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