This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.

Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Ibanez TS808 Tube Screamer

Been meaning to do this one for a while. One of the most classic effects ever, the Tube Screamer has been used by just about everybody. This layout is for the original TS808 circuit, but you can also build the TS9 on it as well. Just swap the 100Ω resistor coming off the emitter of Q2 with a 470Ω, and swap the 10k from output to ground with a 100k. The 220nF capacitors on the original TS808 and TS9s were tantalum, but I've laid them out to be film for better response. The 220nF coming off lug 2 of the Tone pot can be decreased to 100nF to open up the range of the tone control. Also, if you feel like it, you could hard mount the Drive and Tone controls to the board if you want.


59 comments:

  1. classic srv sounds, and the perfect drive to push muffs distortions into the stratosphere.
    can mark this as verified.

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  2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omKi0luhjAA

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  3. Verified and it works beautifully!
    What a sound!!!
    Very smooth and nice.

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    1. Hi, did you fit this into a 1590B or into a 125B? Also, do you remember the aproximate size of the board?

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  4. I see you have round, green, and yellow capacitors on the top left image layout. What types of capacitors do you recommend for these 3 different types?

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  5. The round ones are electrolytic capacitors, the green ones are film, and the yellow are ceramics. Typically anything below 1nF I use ceramic, and above that I use film (though you can certain use ceramics just fine). Another above 1µF I generally use electros. Hope that helps.

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  6. Hi everyone especially the one that created this TS , I have a question on where to add footswitch , jack in and out ...sorry im new to this but im interested in building one of this thanks :) and i listed all the parts needed

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    1. Check out the general layout notes tab at the top of the page

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    2. Thank you and have a nice day :)

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    3. Hi its me again , I'm sorry I didn't find it. But can you send me some pics? Sorry for disturbing. Have a nice day again...

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    4. Here's the link:

      http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/p/general-layout-notes.html

      Lots of offboard wiring tutorials and images online too. Just search on google.

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  7. Thank you :) one last thing before I start my journey hehehe
    Is the blue resistor indicates as metal film? thanks again :)

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    Replies
    1. They do, but carbon film can be used as well. Not vital to the circuit.

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    2. Last question :)
      ,is it okay if use a 5 band resistor?
      Thanks that's all :)

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    3. You can use any kind of resistors you want.

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    4. Hi... What kind of switch used in this pedal?
      No 3dpt switches in electronic shops here in the philippines...
      I tried guitar shops but no 3dpt switch, may I ask if there's a substitute?thanks...cheers

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    5. You could try Millenium 2 bypass. It uses a DPDT footswitch and still gives LED on/off indication.

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    6. Hi again...Can i use 10v electrolytic capacitors?
      And what's the wattage of resistors? Thank you

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    7. 10v caps electros are not recommended. Use at least 16v, and 35v is probably safer. Resistors are 1/4 watt.

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    8. good day :) how about the film caps?
      is there anything that i need to know about it?
      thanks

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    9. You can use film or ceramic caps, your choice. The ones I use are rated at 100v

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    10. Hi...is there a difference between mylar and film cap?
      The only caps in my possession are mylar...

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    11. and about the 51pf, can i use 50pf?
      and is the square pad negative side of electro cap?
      thanks ...

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    12. 50pf is fine. Square pad = positive side. Mylars are fine.

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    13. Hi again ... I'm confused about the square pads on diode (1N4001,1N4148)
      Is it still positive side or negative ? Thanks

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    14. With diodes, square pads indicate the cathode (-) side. Should be the same as the marked side on the actual diode.

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    15. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    16. hi can i apply solder mask? and is there any stencil available. sorry just a noob :)

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  8. Is it possible to squeeze this in a 1590A?

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  9. What a pity... so you can take a 1590A Tube Screamer as request XD

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  10. I don't understand. Made it, but the sound is clean. Tone and volume work, but drive doesn't affect sound. Changed jrc4558. Same story. Can anyone help please?

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    Replies
    1. Checked everything. Can't find the reason. Can anyone show the way please?

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  11. I just made the circuit, when I connect 3PDT not work for me , you can be?

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    Replies
    1. You have an error in either your board or in your offboard wiring. Check it with a digital multi-meter and/or an audio probe to find faults.

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  12. May i get more volume output on this one.
    This things sounds great, but not enough output to be booster.
    Thx bro.

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    1. There are a lot of mods to the TS808 that can be found online. But you should be getting plenty of volume out of this without mods. Double check for any shorts and use an audio probe if need be.

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  13. what i do if a want to add a clipping diodes switch?

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    1. Basically you'll take the clipping diodes off the board and put them on one side of a DPDT along with another set of diodes of your choice on the other side and wire it like this:

      https://s3.postimg.org/x0j1qlpyb/switch_diagram.png

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    2. so where I put the sw1a and sw1b? like sw1a on the grey side of D1 and sw1b on the grey side of D2? (im pretty newb)

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    3. and this "logic" works to every drive pedal? replacing the switch in the grey sides of diodes?

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  14. Hello, I'm sorry if this isn't the right place to ask this, but I'm completely new with perfboards and I have a couple doubts I want to sort out before attempting this build. First, how do you make the 'ground perimeter' for lack of a better term you have in here? Do you just use stripped wire to connect all the pads in the perimeter? Second, when you need to connect a component to ground, and it is close to the rail, do you use wire to jump it or do you solder the pads together? Thank you!

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    1. There's not really a right or wrong way to do it (unless it doesn't work, then it's wrong haha). What I do is start with resistors and diodes and bend the legs under the board to start forming the traces. Then do the caps, again bending legs and filling in any traces that weren't created with the resistors. Generally by the time I get to this point just about all the traces are formed, but any gaps I'll fill in with either component leg cut offs or stripped solid core wire. For the ground perimeter, it's not really necessary to go all the way around, as long as everything that's supposed to connect to ground connects to ground. Hopefully that helps. I'm working on a tutorial video of how I do perf that I'm hoping to get out soon. So be on the lookout for that.

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    2. I'll certainly be waiting for it! Thank you so much for being so helpful and having this amazing site up. One last doubt, was this designed with a 1590B enclosure in mind or something a little bigger?

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    3. This one would be easier to fit in a 125B. There's another tube screamer layout for the TS9 that'll work in a 1590B. And the difference between the 808 and the 9 is like 2 resistor values.

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  15. hi! what i need to do to this layout if i want to add a switch to go from ts808 to ts9?could that be possible?

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    1. You can do it like this fairly easily:

      http://members.optushome.com.au/bluespherecreations/forum/resistorswitching.gif

      This is well worth reading as well:

      http://geofex.com/Article_Folders/TStech/tsxtech.htm#obuffer

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  16. Buenas Tardes, lo logro conseguir el capacitor ceramico de 51 pf las opciones que me ofrecen son de 47 pf o 53 pf podria indicarme si puedo utilizar cualquiera de estos dos para que funcione el circuito? Muchas Gracias.

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    1. Either of those values will work fine.

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    2. About the resistance of 510K and that of 51K, do you think correct 470k + 47k? I would be giving a value of 517k and 47k + 4.7K, I would be giving 51.7 Is what I can get at this point to finish the ts808, do you think it can work?

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    3. That would work fine. Though, if it were me, I'd just just a 470k in place of the 510k and a 47k in place of the 51k. In all the many variations on the tube screamer out there, those values vary a lot.

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    4. Thank you very much!, I'm going to follow your advice.

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  17. Hi! How are you? Let me say to you that your work is priceless!

    I have only one question about the layout (First of all, I have read your General Layouts Article). What does the yellow/orange path mean in the upper side of the board? As far I understand, red path belongs to VOLTAGE, green paths are GROUND and Blue paths mean AUDIO.

    Thanks in advance for your comments! Your contribution is Highly appreciated!

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    1. Thanks for your kind words. Those traces are the voltage reference (sometimes called VR, VB, Vbias, etc) and is 4.5v.

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    2. Thanks to you for your help! I'll start inmediatelly with my first pcb project

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  18. Do you guys ever build an OD pedal which produces more gain than the original? Most of OD pedals I built does, including this one. Could it be because of the cheap components I use?

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  19. I've done this pedal with "A100K" level pot and when i compare with original, only that VOLUME (Level)pot does not work exactly like the original pedal does. When i change pot with "B100K" pedal works exactly the same as the original. I cannot believe, this sound exactly like TS808. Just USE lin potentiometer (Level B100K) insted of log and you have original TS808. ;)

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