I got a request for the Fulltone Bassdrive, and upon examining the schematic for it and the Fulldrive, there's only a few capacitor value changes between the two, which I'll detail below. All that to say, here's the Fulldrive 2 Mosfet. It's a Tube Screamer circuit with some interesting mods on it. Schematic is easily found on Google. Note that the Boost function of this circuit only works when the overdrive portion is already engaged. Pots can be board mounted and if the switch numbering is confusing consult the General Layout Notes tab for clarification.
For those of you who are interested in the bass version of this, use this layout to populate the Fulltone 2 board for the Bassdrive:
Hello First post here. Was wandering If there’s a simplified version of the BassDrive without the boost section out there? Or something close to that? Thanks
You could adapt a Tube Screamer or TS clone board (Landgraff Dynamic Overdrive, CMAT Signa, EQD Dunes) and just follow the values of the BassDrive. Might have to get creative with the comp and diode switches... I may make a layout specifically for this now that I think about it... Stay tuned. haha
Very nice layout, I'm doing right now this stompbox. But I had to modify the Drill Template because I can't fit the in/out Rean open jack on top of 1590BB box, because of the two switches there's not enough room for the jacks. I moved the potz and pcb up, and put the jacks in the sides of the box. So, the question is: what kind of jack do you use to put them on top of the box? It's a good drill layout to save space in pedalboards, but with std open jack I can't do it.
I use Switchcraft box jacks and occasionally low profile Lumberg jacks when things are snug. Please note that all drill templates shared on this site are generally untested and may require modification for the parts you have on hand. Looking at the drill template for this, you can probably use regular open frame jacks if you just shift the drills for the in/out jacks outwards a few mm.
Just finished the bass version of this pedal. works great! (I took a tl072 and it works fine). One note that needs to be said to complete the layout. Connect pin 2 of the comp switch (DP3T) with pin 2 of the boost switch (see general layout notes for pin config). Other wise the switch won't work correctly.
Great man!! \m/
ReplyDeletegracias !!
ReplyDeleteyeah man
ReplyDeletedoesn't this pedal use a On/On/On switch?
ReplyDeleteYes, the comp switch is an on/on/on DPDT
DeleteMaybe is more correct to call it DP3T?
DeleteAre we talking about this?:
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/media/img/guitarelectronics/W250-H150/S/swm2connections.jpg
Haven't heard it called that, but that diagram looks right.
DeleteIs it the type of switch on the left side of this pic or on the right?
Deletehttp://farm3.static.flickr.com/2447/3839520055_b3ec197c4c_o.png
I believe the right
DeleteThank you. Do you think I can use a dpdt on-on and just miss out the mode in the middle postition? Which setting would that be?
DeleteYou could. It'll just have fewer options
DeleteI suppose I can also emulate this type of switch with two DPDT 2position ON-ON switches. Here's how I see it: http://i.imgur.com/FHT742J.png
DeleteDoes that look correct?
The black and grey straight lines show the position of the switch and resulting connections.
Deletealready been checked? It works? thank you
ReplyDeleteI made it, but tone pot must be "C" - rev audio
ReplyDeleteHola, hiciste el pedal, te funcionó o tienes algún problema?
DeleteHello,
ReplyDelete1uF caps are tantalum?
They're non-polarized film box caps in these layouts. I get them from Tayda.
DeleteThis will be OK?
Deletehttps://www.banzaimusic.com/Nichicon-MUSE-ES-1uF-50V.html
Yes, those would work, but these are the ones in mind:
Deletehttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/polyester-film-box-type-capacitors/1uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html
Thank You.
DeleteDoes anyone have the transistor voltages? I'm having a problem with volume - unity is around 3, all controls work as expected otherwise.
ReplyDeleteHello
ReplyDeleteFirst post here.
Was wandering If there’s a simplified version of the BassDrive without the boost section out there? Or something close to that? Thanks
You could adapt a Tube Screamer or TS clone board (Landgraff Dynamic Overdrive, CMAT Signa, EQD Dunes) and just follow the values of the BassDrive. Might have to get creative with the comp and diode switches... I may make a layout specifically for this now that I think about it... Stay tuned. haha
DeleteVery nice layout, I'm doing right now this stompbox. But I had to modify the Drill Template because I can't fit the in/out Rean open jack on top of 1590BB box, because of the two switches there's not enough room for the jacks. I moved the potz and pcb up, and put the jacks in the sides of the box.
ReplyDeleteSo, the question is: what kind of jack do you use to put them on top of the box? It's a good drill layout to save space in pedalboards, but with std open jack I can't do it.
I use Switchcraft box jacks and occasionally low profile Lumberg jacks when things are snug. Please note that all drill templates shared on this site are generally untested and may require modification for the parts you have on hand. Looking at the drill template for this, you can probably use regular open frame jacks if you just shift the drills for the in/out jacks outwards a few mm.
DeleteHi could you post a layout for the Fulldrive 1.
ReplyDeleteAlguien sabe si el fulldrive está verificado? Tiene algún problema de volumen? Gracias.
ReplyDeleteJust finished the bass version of this pedal. works great! (I took a tl072 and it works fine). One note that needs to be said to complete the layout. Connect pin 2 of the comp switch (DP3T) with pin 2 of the boost switch (see general layout notes for pin config). Other wise the switch won't work correctly.
ReplyDeleteHello. I think there is still missing one diode for assymetrical clipping.
ReplyDeleteAccording to https://www.talkbass.com/attachments/fulldrive-jpg.2527959/
Besides that, it works perfectly!
Thanks