This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass. I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination, just a DIY'er who likes drawing layouts. It is meant for the hobbyist (so commercial use of any of these layout is not allowed without permission) and as a way to give back to the online DIY community.

Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Jon Patton's Hamlet Delay

Here's another design from Jon Patton. It's a delay based on the popular PT2399, with an always-on preamp. The preamp is designed to have a flat EQ and won't alter your tone. So the In and Out pads go to the input/output jacks, instead of the switch. You could still wiring this for true-bypass (just jumper the footswitch pads), but it's designed to use a DPDT. Use one side to turn the delay on/off and the other for the LED indicator. Check out his build doc for a thorough and much better explanation of the circuit, a diagram for the footswitch wiring, as well as the schematic. In his layouts he has the Level and Tone controls as trimmers on the board. I chose to move these off-board, as it seems like useful controls to have externally.


22 comments:

  1. This is definitely the pinnacle of the PT2399.

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  2. Can anyone tell me how to offboard wiring here is to be done?

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  3. I can verrify that the circuit is working , though i havent boxed it yet and it makes a weird high pitched noise , i hope it will be tamed when i box it up! also i used B20K for both tone and mix cause thats what i could get.

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    1. it's an awesome little delay effect , also its my first effect that works that fine :P

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  4. A few things i forgot to mention about the circuit. The Q2 (2N5457) must be put as shown but the pinout order is wrong ,Gate and Drain are reversed. Also the mix pot works on reverse so you have to switch lugs 1 and 3 in order to make it work right. Other than that a really cool designed circuit. The sir that made the design have my respect!!!

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    1. Sorry, I did not understand very well I'm from Argentina and it costs me English. I have to change the order the legs? 123? 213 " 132? 321 "

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  5. Hello again , the track that connected the led to the pt2399 has been broken somehow....it took me a while to notice whats the problem and the pedal had so much noise all of a sudden, I fixed it though and the noise has gone for about 70%, can someone help me find what may cause this...please someone put me out of my misery...

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  6. I just finished this. I used a 1044SCPA. If you use this charge pump remember that you MUST connect pin 1 to the supply power. You'd also want to lower the zenner diode to a 10v to keep the circuit from overloading the 1044SCPA chip. If you want to see mine here it is. http://custohmelectronics.blogspot.com/2017/03/mimic-delay-for-evan.html.
    Thanks for the awesome layout!!!

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    1. Thanks for the report, Mike! Good looking build as always.

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    2. Thanks man! Keep making the layouts and I'll keep building them. Next up ss/bs boxing!

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  7. Hi ! the led connect at the pin 7 of pt2399 in parallel with 100nF provide a limitation of the "selfoscillation" , it is nice, but the limitation is too hard, how can i reduce it, with pot before ?
    Simon

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    1. I'd ask Jon about that. He's pretty active on the MadBean forum and I'm sure he'd be willing to help you out.

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  8. If I use a 1044SCPA (like this https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tc1044scpa-tc1044-voltage-regulator-ic.html ) and connect pin one up to pin two will it work instead of using an LT1054? Would this also work with a MAX1044 ?(Like this https://www.taydaelectronics.com/max1044-max1044cpa-switched-capacitor-voltage-converter-ic.html ). Or should I connect by going under the chip and down to the wire coming off of pin 2? This is my first time using a charge pump and some help would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks

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    1. If you want to use either 1044 chip you need to connect pin 1 to pin 8. Leave pin 2 alone.

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    2. So I just create a line going straight between the top pins?

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    3. Okay, thanks. Just two more questions. Do I need to lower the 12v diode to a 10v one? (Like one of these https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n4740a-1n4740-zener-diode-10v-1w.html ). Also should I use sockets like these https://www.taydaelectronics.com/8-pin-dip-ic-socket-adaptor-solder-type.html for the Pt2399 and the Max1044. Sorry for the dumb questions and thanks for all your help.

      Cheers

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    4. Yes, that's a good idea. I forgot about that diode on here. And those sockets should work just fine.

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    5. Okay, cool. Sorry this is my last question (hopefully) . What are some alternatives to Q2 because tayda is out of stock of 2n5457 and j201?

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    6. Not much really. Your best bet is probably either ordering those from somewhere like SmallBear that still has good ones, or getting SMD versions of those transistors and using a through-hole conversion board. It's getting really hard to get good through-hole JFETs anymore.

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  9. Okay. I'm really sorry for all the questions and thanks for all your help. Would a BF244A work? ( https://www.taydaelectronics.com/bf244a-n-channel-rf-amplifier-transistor.html )

    Cheers

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    1. I don't think so. Haven't heard of people using that as a sub, and if you compare the datasheets, things don't line up real well. Unless you go the SMD route, you're probably not gonna find the right transistors on Tayda.

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