Turns out the Southland is pretty much the same circuit as the Lightspeed, but with some hard clipping diodes thrown in the middle (and a couple value tweaks). Figured I'd make a new layout with space for the diodes. This layout uses the same drill template as the Lightspeed.
I ended up building a 2-in-1 with this and a Lightspeed and highly recommend it. If you'd rather a fabricated board, check out the LightLand on the store.
Glad to see David again!
ReplyDeleteTwo new layouts in the same month?
ReplyDeleteNice!
Thanks for all your work
Hey David! Thanks for posting this one. It’s not working with the BAT41s in their positions as shown. Also tried 1N34As in case it was a bad pair of diodes. The Light Land schematic has these (D6-7) going to Vr instead of to ground as in the layout. When I pull D6-7, it fires up pretty much like a juiced Lightspeed. Sockets FTW. Any ideas what could fix the problem? Reroute to Vr between 4k7 and 220nf?
ReplyDeleteThanks for letting me know, Orion. Fixed and updated the image above.
DeleteGood day!
ReplyDeleteWe have kindly request for Barber Tricefta Fuzz:
https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=6365
Thank you so much,
I made the first layout on perf and it didn't work. I managed to take it apart and put it back in the new layout and it works well! Really good pedal, bought the pcb too.
ReplyDeleteShouldn't the PCB fabrication image (bottom right) be mirrored?
ReplyDeleteNot if you're using the toner transfer method. If you're doing photoresist, you're printing to transparency, in which case just flip the transparency around.
DeleteSo if i use the toner transfer method, the circuit will be mirrored. After that i will have to place the components on the underside, right? The wires will be seen on the copper side of the pcb for soldering, right? i apologize for dumb questions, i'm totally new to this
DeleteNo, print it as it is in the transfer pdf and the transfer process will mirror the toner onto the copper.
Deletehttps://youtu.be/O50XUq2hdAM
If you've already etched a board and it came out mirrored, the only component you'd need to place on the copper side would be the IC. The pots would be backward as well and you'd have to put them on the component side. At this point you'd be having a hard time getting them to fit on top of resistors and caps unless you're using long leg pc mount pots or wiring them off board. Probably easier to just etch a new board that's not mirrored. Hope that helps.
Thank you for your prompt reply! So if i'm doing everything right, all the components (including the IC) will be mounted on the "other" side, and only the pots will go on the copper side, right? No, i didn't etched a board yet. I've just ordered all the materials i need and give it a try next week :)
DeleteCorrect, everything but pots goes on the component (top, non-copper) side. Like this:
Deletehttps://www.instagram.com/p/BXjFdusAzLZ/
Hello :)
ReplyDeleteIs it possible to get the gerber file for this one?
Thanks for the great work, keep it up!
Greetings from Germany
Sorry, DIYLC doesn't have gerber generation.
DeleteHello :) I have a couple more questions about building pedals in general.
ReplyDeleteHow do i know if i need to use 0.25W or let's say 2.00W resistors for example?
Also, does it matter if i use metal or carbon film resistors?
Same question for capacitors, does it matter if i use film or ceramic ones?
Howdy! I'd highly recommend that you check out General Guitar Gadgets and their info for newbies. Solid info there... and a little Googling can source other similar sources.
Deletehttp://www.generalguitargadgets.com/how-to-build-it/technical-help/beginner-information/
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/how-to-build-it/technical-help/
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/howto.pdf
That PDF there covers your questions and more. But, in short:
Most pedal circuits don't need more than 1/4w resistors. I've not run into one yet that needs higher wattage. Amps are a different story.
You can pretty much use whatever kind of cap you have handy (except where you need electrolytics). However, ceramic caps tend to be noisy in the signal path. I usually limit ceramic to power sections and use film for most everything. However, sometimes those little MCC ceramics are the only thing I have in the small values... so I use them. No big whoop.
I hope that helps you out in sourcing some good help info. I'll look for some more links as well.
Good luck!
https://guitargearfinder.com/guides/diy-guitar-pedals/
Deletehttp://www.pedalhaven.com/everything-need-build-diy-guitar-pedal/
https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/A-Beginners-Guide-to-Components.pdf
Thank you so much for your efford! I will check those links out!
DeleteI'm going to build my first pedal from a kit soon. If everything works fine, i will give the greer southland a try. My goal is creating my own schematics to get exactly the sound i want. But i guess that will take a couple months of research.
Hello! I've seen those 1 uF square caps in many pedals' diagrams, but I don't know what kind of caps they are. I bought a 1 uF film cap, but it won't fit in the board. Could someone please illustrate me? Thanks for your great work on this site and all the community help. I've learned a lot.
ReplyDeleteThose are box film caps. I use these: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html
DeleteAre the green capacitors "greenies" or should i use box film caps? i bought greenies but it seems that they dont fit perfectly. but its possible to mount them when bending the wires a bit though..
DeleteIt would be glorious to have both pedals (lightspeed & Southland) in a single circuit selectable by a switch. Will it be too much to ask? Thanks for all.
ReplyDeleteIf you have a DPDT that swaps out the bat41s and simultaneously switches between 22k and 4.7k you'd essentially be swapping the two circuits aside from the two opamps I believe.
DeleteIf I'm using a footswitch PCB that already has spaces for the 4k7 resistor and LED+, do I need to include the ones in the layout?
ReplyDeleteNo, you can leave it out.
Delete