For Fuzz Friday here's the coolest Green Ringer + Rat pedal around! (To be fair, it's an awesome combo) The Green Ringer is on a JFET blend and the Rat section is pretty standard. There's also a fairly generic MOSFET boost on board as well, similar to a SHO or Black Eye. This should all fit nicely in a 1590BB with board mounted pots.
Different LED's have different voltage drops which will sound different. Red will be a ~1.8v drop vs blue around 3.3v. If you don't have red, yellow or green will probably sound the same, or just experiment.
my completed build with relayed bypasses: http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/LifePedal/Life-02.jpg: http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/LifePedal/Life-01.jpg
You use 2, 3PDT footswitches and you connect them like you normally would (seen General Layout Notes tab). One footswitch connects to the Dist. In/Dist. Out pads, and the other to the Boost In/Boost Out pads.
The basic Green Ringer circuit works better with a little more "push" as the front end. That can be provided by running a resistor/cap combination in parallel with the 2k2 resistor labelled R8. Consider use of a 1k resistor and 10uf electrolytic cap, negative side going to ground.
I'll also add that, since the octaver input stage doubles the frequency of everything, it's not clear why the Rat section really needs the R18/C12 network to goose the gain of content above 1500hz. Users may find less need to be brutal with the Filter control if they either omitted that RC network or perhaps replaced it with 330R and 1uf. That would provide proportionately more gain for content above around 500hz instead of the searing gain for higher-frequency content that a stock Rat provides.
Hello! I finished the circuit a few days ago and it's awesome how it sounds! Excellent work! How can the spdt be changed to a rotary switch? Thanks and regards!
I've noticed that all the green ringer/ tentacle schematics have the film cap values of 47nf, while the caps in this schematic are 100nf. Was this from the pedalpcb schematic or traced? Also all the copy says its supposed to be the Shin-ei octave fuzz into a rat +boost. Is that all hot air and its just a tentacle? or does it really matter? I'ms sure this layout sounds awesome, I'm more curious than anything.
It's from the PedalPCB trace, so I haven't looked at the guts in person, but from pics I don't see how it could be either of the Shin-Ei fuzzes. There are too many components for the FY-2, and not enough for the FY-6. I'm guessing the reason for the 100nF caps in place of the 47nF is to allow more bass through or they just had way more 100nF caps on hand than 47nF. lol
I know this thread is a little old. Though, I was wondering if anyone has a link for a PF5012? Also in the schematic, where is the net label "VA" connected?
Hello everyone! I just finished building it. As far as I understand order of connection is following: RAT connected befor Boost. Is it correct? Thank you!
Hi Guys, Jack here again. Just finished a PCB build for this and it sounds incredibly close to the original! very pleased, or rather my friends will be:
Didnt life pedal add ruetz mod for rat? Or maybe that was just the limited version? Have not owned one but plan to use octave part as bypassable for a rat
Couldn't get it to work untiL I replaced the LM308 with a OP07... then it blitzed. If your using 2N5457 be mindful of the different pinout. Thanks once again.
What is the value for the Octave pot? Thanks and keep up with the amazing work!
ReplyDeleteB50k. It's written down in the layout
DeleteAny substitute for PF5102? J201 maybe?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteRAT uses 2N5458.
DeleteI would go with these.
...and J201 as Q1.
Deleteit looks like one 1N4148 is missing for the asymmetrical clipping circuit. there's supposed to be 5 of them.
ReplyDeletethere are two 1n4148 and red led for the asymmetrical clipping
ReplyDeleteDoes the LED color matter?
DeleteDifferent LED's have different voltage drops which will sound different. Red will be a ~1.8v drop vs blue around 3.3v. If you don't have red, yellow or green will probably sound the same, or just experiment.
Deleteyeah, i just saw that.
ReplyDeletehi, where can i file a requeste for the earthquaker grand orbiter?
ReplyDeletei just finished building it. it works perfect and sounds awesome so you can VERIFY it.
ReplyDeleteThanks John!
Deletefinished building last night and sounded amazing to my ears ... one friend's request? ibanez nb10 noise booster 🙏
ReplyDeletemy completed build with relayed bypasses: http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/LifePedal/Life-02.jpg: http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/LifePedal/Life-01.jpg
ReplyDeletehttp://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/LifePedal/Life-02.jpg
Clean as always, John. Love the knob choice.
DeleteThis circuit is based on the Proco Rat Distortion ... The difference is that this pedal has extra functions ...
ReplyDeleteAny replacement of the PF5102.
ReplyDeleteIn my area there is not.
J201-j112 Maybe??
J201, 2N5457, etc.
DeleteAre D1 and D2 flipped?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteYep. Green Ringer and EQD Tentacle has the polarity switched!
DeleteYeah, I thought that when I was drawing up but apparently that's as far as my brain went. Haha Will fix.
Deleteaccording to tjhe green ringer schematic that i've seen, it looks like they are.
ReplyDeleteHI!
ReplyDeleteWhat footswitch are used? How are they connected?
You use 2, 3PDT footswitches and you connect them like you normally would (seen General Layout Notes tab). One footswitch connects to the Dist. In/Dist. Out pads, and the other to the Boost In/Boost Out pads.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteAre the In/Out jacks are shared for both 3pdt switches?
DeleteIn -> Dist. switch -> Boost switch -> Out
DeleteThe basic Green Ringer circuit works better with a little more "push" as the front end. That can be provided by running a resistor/cap combination in parallel with the 2k2 resistor labelled R8. Consider use of a 1k resistor and 10uf electrolytic cap, negative side going to ground.
ReplyDeleteI'll also add that, since the octaver input stage doubles the frequency of everything, it's not clear why the Rat section really needs the R18/C12 network to goose the gain of content above 1500hz. Users may find less need to be brutal with the Filter control if they either omitted that RC network or perhaps replaced it with 330R and 1uf. That would provide proportionately more gain for content above around 500hz instead of the searing gain for higher-frequency content that a stock Rat provides.
Delete
ReplyDeleteIt is possible to reduce pcb for 1590b, sacrificing the potentiometer line
By the way, mine is finished, and is excellent! Sounds dark and big, the sustain is perfect
ReplyDeleteHello! I finished the circuit a few days ago and it's awesome how it sounds! Excellent work!
ReplyDeleteHow can the spdt be changed to a rotary switch? Thanks and regards!
I've noticed that all the green ringer/ tentacle schematics have the film cap values of 47nf, while the caps in this schematic are 100nf. Was this from the pedalpcb schematic or traced? Also all the copy says its supposed to be the Shin-ei octave fuzz into a rat +boost. Is that all hot air and its just a tentacle? or does it really matter? I'ms sure this layout sounds awesome, I'm more curious than anything.
ReplyDeleteIt's from the PedalPCB trace, so I haven't looked at the guts in person, but from pics I don't see how it could be either of the Shin-Ei fuzzes. There are too many components for the FY-2, and not enough for the FY-6. I'm guessing the reason for the 100nF caps in place of the 47nF is to allow more bass through or they just had way more 100nF caps on hand than 47nF. lol
DeleteOn the IC pin 2 - 6 .. schenmatic says 100pf. on the lay out its 100nf.
ReplyDeletewhats the correct value? TiA
Are you referring to C11? It's 100pF in both the schem and the layout...
DeleteThanks! Will use pf. But
ReplyDeleteMost definitely,pf on schematic. nf on layout.
Just so there's no confusion
Deletehttps://i.postimg.cc/YCZdLy3w/Annotation-2019-11-08-090822.png
Works amazing!
ReplyDeleteSome replaced I used and worked well:
PF5102 = 2N5457
2N5089 = 2N5088
1N60A = 1N60P
Hope it could help!
Please do a Fortin zuul layout!
So, I used 2N5458 instead Q5 PF5102 and something marked as J201 instead Q1 PF5102.
DeleteIt sounds awesO)))me
The clipping switch at the middle is op amp clipping in the original?
ReplyDeleteyes.
DeleteAre D1 and D2 specific germanium diodes?
ReplyDelete1N34As should work fine. Heck, even 1N4148 silcons will work.
DeleteI know this thread is a little old. Though, I was wondering if anyone has a link for a PF5012?
ReplyDeleteAlso in the schematic, where is the net label "VA" connected?
Kind regards,
Jack.
That's just a type, it should be +9V.
DeleteNeato! thanks for clearing that up :3
DeleteHello everyone! I just finished building it. As far as I understand order of connection is following: RAT connected befor Boost. Is it correct?
ReplyDeleteThank you!
Yes, the boost is last.
DeleteHi Guys,
ReplyDeleteJack here again.
Just finished a PCB build for this and it sounds incredibly close to the original! very pleased, or rather my friends will be:
https://www.4shared.com/photo/wGR393Q1iq/1__1_.html
https://www.4shared.com/photo/_l2PTANHea/2_online.html
https://www.4shared.com/photo/ZeSFe0u3ea/3_online.html
https://www.4shared.com/photo/OSMkRMpHea/4_online.html
https://www.4shared.com/photo/AcRFN3eWiq/5_online.html
https://www.4shared.com/photo/BS7NR7gXiq/6_online.html
https://www.4shared.com/photo/Us_Dmuu5iq/7_online.html
https://www.4shared.com/photo/VLAeb_TMiq/8_online.html
Thanks again to everyone :)
Edit: Here's a better link that isn't so compressed (sorry).
Deletehttps://ibb.co/hB9CNv3
https://ibb.co/bBSs8rC
https://ibb.co/LJbRTDG
https://ibb.co/THPssD9
https://ibb.co/p14Y1cg
https://ibb.co/GvQssXc
https://ibb.co/bJhfxjX
https://ibb.co/7vgXZr2
Any 2n5057 substitute???
ReplyDeleteI know it's probably too late for answear but I used 2n3906 and everything works fine
Delete2n5087 is pnp. What is the purpose of throwing a pnp in between two npn trannies?
ReplyDeleteThere doesn't appear to be any negative voltage on the base...
I've never looked at an octave circuit before. I suppose that's a standard way to produce the octave effect and I'm just too green.
DeleteGreen like a ringer? ^^
Deletehello someone know how we can add the input for an expression pedal to control the octave?
ReplyDeletefranck
Add wires from lug 2 and 3 of the octave to a stero jack I believe..there's a video on YouTube of someone adding this to their aftermath pedal
DeleteDidnt life pedal add ruetz mod for rat? Or maybe that was just the limited version? Have not owned one but plan to use octave part as bypassable for a rat
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteCouldn't get it to work untiL I replaced the LM308 with a OP07... then it blitzed. If your using 2N5457 be mindful of the different pinout.
ReplyDeleteThanks once again.
Hey man, I built this, and it works great. However, the drilling template you have for it is reversed...
ReplyDeleteI'm a newbie at this. Is the big 1uf capacitor on the right side ceramic or polyester?
ReplyDeleteThose are box film caps
Delete