Monday, December 7, 2015
Death by Audio Reverberation Machine
Here's a cool dirty reverb effect by Death by Audio. It uses a Belton brick like many other designs, and offers clean reverb with the gain control turned all the way down. But when you increase the gain, fuzz is infused to the signal. You can mount the Belton brick to the board from the solder-side (best to do this once the rest of the board has been populated). It'll probably be too tall with the brick to fit in a 1590B, but a 125B should work just fine.
Would a TLC274CN work in this? Thanks.
ReplyDeletePossibly. I think I read somebody cloned this using a TL074 as well.
DeleteAs posted in the FB page, mark it verified.
ReplyDeleteI used TLC274CN from Tayda and it sounds great just like the video demos.
Way cool pedal, thanks again Dude for the layouts.
You bet, man! Thanks for verifying.
Deleteand gain 3? where it's connected?
ReplyDeleteIt's not connected. You could jumper it to Gain 2 if you want, but it'll work the same either way.
Deletesorry to ask... is the pcb layout already print size?
ReplyDeleteIt is on the transfer pdf. See the Transfer Image Library tab at the top of the page
DeleteRight! my bad, thanks!... dude, you know this already.. But this blog is awesome! Keep'em coming I'll take care of them one at a time hahaa! have a good one bro!
DeleteThanks man!
Deletecould you share the schem for this one? it would spare me a lot of time! thanks!
ReplyDeleteIt's on the FSB forum (you'll need to login to see it)
Deletehttp://freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=27255&mode=view
Awesome! one more question.. it seems that your design has a 220nf cap missing from the schem.. if im not mistaken it is the one at the end of one of the loops for the switch.. you did that on purpose maybe?
DeleteOh you're right. Thanks for catching that. I'll have to rework the board a little bit. If you've already made a board just use a 220n cap to connect lug 4 of the switch to the Sw4 pad on the board.
Deletehave this been updated on the current layout?
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ReplyDeleteIt is verified. 5v only goes to the Belton brick.
Deleteyes I just realized, sorry about that, I was just deleting my coment... I'm trying out the tl074 and it runs on 5v
Deleteoh, I misread the data sheet.. 074 also ok with 9v... god I have my brain broken by now.. don't mind what i say today, I'll get off your hair hahaha
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteVery good job here in your website!
I would like to know what the "sw's" are. Are they the BTDR pin, i.e., sw1 is the BTDR 1 sw2 is the BTDR 2 pin and so on, or I need to buy a 6 switch position ?
"Sw" stands for "switch." In this case it's a DPDT toggle. The BTDR goes into the six pads in a row on the right side of the board
DeleteHey man!!! Amazing web site! I have a question about Belton BTDR-2H-L Does it need to be programmed? Or it's ready to rock as it is?
ReplyDeleteThanks! The Beltons are ready to go out of the box.
DeleteInstead of the 100K resistor just above of the TLC274M4AIN (not ALN but AIN), try values between 1K and 10K. It sounds better to me.
ReplyDeleteHi! and thanks for the very interesting project! I built it but the reverb seems to work only in one position of the DPDT. any suggestion? thank you a lot
ReplyDeleteHi again! I tried it with TL074 and TLC274CN and they sound different, TLC274CN is a bit fuzzier.
ReplyDeleteAnyway I still have the same problem, reverb does work only on one position of the DPDT. any idea? please help me! :)
Hi! I solved the problem. My experience with the different ICs is:
ReplyDelete- tlc274cn is a bit fuzzier than tl074
- tlc274cn is a bit smoother, "rounder" than tlc27m4ain
- tlc274cn for me is the best :)
and what about your switch problem? the same might be happening in my proyect and i cant put my finger on the problem.
DeleteHi emilio, sorry about answering late!
Deletemine was a problem with a capacitor, one of the 220n. i resoldered and now it's ok.
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ReplyDeletehi! does anybody know how to realize a tails mod?
ReplyDeletehey man. I just designed a new board from scratch using the same schematic. Im having trouble getting output signal from pin 1 (the one that goes to the belton) the others work just fine. Those three pins also read 8 and some volts when they should be 4.66v aprox. I checked the 1uF cap to GND, the whole path to the switch and the IC itself and there shouldn't be any problem.
ReplyDeleteI was wondering if you have encountered such a problem when you were working on it. If so, could you point me in the right direction? Thanks!
Could you recognize brand and type (ceramic, mololithic ceramic, film) of the capacitors in the oryginal DBA Reverberation Machine from the pictures?
ReplyDeletehttp://i.imgur.com/lq4GTPxl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GnxXikhl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/gqHtrn3l.jpg
thanks for the images! looks like a AIN to me not ALN. for the caps I cannot say, sorry.
DeleteHello, everyone, can BDTR2 be replaced by other similar products, my region (China) can't buy BDTR, or is there any way to buy it?
ReplyDeletehI!WHAT DOES EXACTLY "VOLUME 3 TO OUT" MEAN? SHOULD I SWAP VOL 3 AND VOL 2?
ReplyDeleteLug 3 of the volume pot is the circuit output. Don't need to swap anything.
DeleteThanks!!!
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ReplyDeleteit is probably a very basic question but I've not much knowledge about how circuits work: What does the parallel 470p/1M do in the dry path? I've not seen this in other circuits.
ReplyDeleteA BTDR-2H-M will work? can't find the L for the moment...
ReplyDeleteYeah should work fine
DeleteVerified ! I've just replace the 100k resistor above the TLC27 by a 10k.
ReplyDeleteIt's sound as the demostration.
On the other hand , i dont have the same fuzzy sound, my is too much clean...
How is the sweep on your volume and gain? Mine goes from off to on, no swell from silent to loud, or clean to dirty. All parts are correct as listed, no solder bridges.
ReplyDeleteHey, I'm thinking of building this and wondering if the circuit board with belton attached will fit in a 1590BB? (Height wise) I haven't worked with a belton brick before.
ReplyDeleteIt should.
DeleteHi, i was wondering if you have your layouts in Eagle .brd format? Cheers, M
ReplyDeleteNope. I use DIYLC for the blog layouts.
Deleteare there voltages taken at the IC pins?
ReplyDeleteTo get more fuzzy sounds I added some diodes at the gain stage in parallel to the 470pf cap on a veroboard. It works quite well. I implemented a switch as well, to change it if wanted.
ReplyDeleteAlso I change the audio pot to 5k for a better feeling when controlling. After 5-10k nothing really happens.
ReplyDeleteWhen I read the wampler diy book and compared it to the schematic I found out that there’s is a band pass filter in here in the gain section. Or a frequency booster. If you lower the 10k (put an potentiometer) or change the 1uf cap you can control the frequencies which get boosted (low pass filter. The gain knob and 470 cap (try up to 10nf) form a high pass filter(low cut). With that you can add mor or less fuzz and craziness as you like. It gets really dirty....
ReplyDeleteAnother great pedal.... Thanks guys!
ReplyDelete