I was able to verify this over the weekend and it works great and will fit nicely in a 1590B.
Monday, August 29, 2016
Valve Wizard Equinox II
Here's a reverb circuit that doesn't require a Belton brick–the Equinox II by Valve Wizard. It uses 2, PT2399 delay chips with a pretty standard input/output buffer built around a TL072. The original uses a J112 for switching the tails function, but I've simplified that with a just DPDT footswitch. Use one side of the DPDT for turning the reverb on/off, and the other side for LED indication. If you don't want/need tails with your reverb, just jumper the 2 switch pads. It's gonna be a snug fit in a 1590B, but it will fit.
gracias story !!!!
ReplyDeletenew project is started right now.
ReplyDeleteAWESOME as usual!
That looks great! Has this one still tails and if so, would you mind sharing yout modified schematic? It really itches me to mould this one into a 1590a.
ReplyDeleteThanks a lot!
I didn't actually modify the schematic. Just used the one that's on the web and replaced the J113 with a switch. I think you'll be hard pressed to fit this in a 1590A with through-hole components. Would love to be proven wrong tho. ;)
DeleteI have got a whole lot of SMD pt2399, so I guess I'll be cheating a little....
DeleteI can use 78L05 instead of 7805 ? since the size of 7805 and greater than the pinning
ReplyDeleteYeah, that's what I used.
DeleteHow do I change back the switch to the original J112?
ReplyDeleteYou'll have to get a little creative. Connect the drain to the Sw2 pad, the source to Sw1 pad, and then use the daughter board from the Valve Wizard Flanger layout to connect the extra components along with the gate of the J112. Honestly it'll be much easier to just use the DPDT footswitch with this layout. Unless you're doing perf, you can always use Valve Wizard's original PCB layout. You won't hurt my feelings. Honest. ;)
DeleteThanks for the reply!! I have finished building this according to your layout, but unfortunately I still have a little problem with it. It worked, but somehow doesn't really affect the output sound. I will have to trace it later.
Deletesame problem here, I've changed the regulator twice and one of the ICs
Deletestill don't effect the output sound
Have you boxed it up? Are you using the tails bypass or wiring it for true bypass? If you're doing the typical true bypass, jumper the 2 switch pads on the left side of the board.
DeleteI haven't boxed it up, just connected the in and out directly to guitar and amp to test it. Ah, and I already jumpered the tail switch.
DeleteI just built this one, the etched PCB version. It works really well, thanks for the layout!
ReplyDeletefrom what I see in your verified prototype the 1nf is tantalum, is that right? If so how about the orientation?
ReplyDeleteNo, that's just a ceramic.
DeleteOh, okay.. Thanks!
DeleteI just tested my build and it sounds like there's a feedback loop, like a never-ending delay feedback. Had anybody got a clue what can cause this? I searched for the usual suspects. Changed ic's, looked for bad joints, bridges and such but I can't find an obvious cause.
ReplyDeleteThe photo montage with this Split By pass ?
ReplyDeleteIf you mean buffered bypass, then yes.
Delete
ReplyDeleteThe yes of course, but do not run the risk of losing signal on the set of pedals?
It's a good quality buffer, not like the crappy ones in Boss pedals. If anything it'll improve your signal path.
DeleteI'm boxing this one up and I have a little hitch. The effect and switching work perfectly until I put the cover on the 1590b case (the inside of the case is lined with rubber electrical tape). It shorts out. I tried to use your off board wiring photo as my guide, but maybe I've got an extra ground connection that's causing this. I know it's something simple but I just can't seem to figure it out! I have dc power jack ground going to output sleeve, which is connected to the input sleeve, also connected to pin 5 of the dpdt. The LED cathode is connected to pin 4 of the dpdt. LED anode is connected to dc jack positive pole via CLR. Switch 1 and 2 wires are connected appropriately to poles 1 and 2 of the dpdt. Am I doing something wrong? Help is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance if anyone has the time to chime in.
ReplyDeleteNm, got it figured out. Thanks again for this useful layout.
DeleteHere are some photos:
Deletehttp://aishaloe.tumblr.com/post/151675366598/this-here-is-a-clone-of-the-valve-wizard-equinox
hallo!
ReplyDeleteCan I use other things diode?
5817→????
You can use a 4001 or similar.
Deletethanks!!
ReplyDeleteCongrats for the great work!
ReplyDeleteBut I didn't understand very well the use of the DPDT.
You said "one side of the DPDT for turning the reverb on/off".
How could I do that?
Should I connect the pads SW1 and SW2 at the DPDT? When the DPDT connects SW1 & SW2 the effect is on; and when DPDT disconnect them the effect is off?
And in the case I jumper SW1 and SW2 (definitely, at the pcb), I must wire the circuit like the commom wiring 3PDT (true bypass)?
Is that it?
Thanks for attention and sorry about my english.
You've got it figured out. And your English is just fine :)
Deletehow can i wire this thing out? no sound at all.. can i use a 3pdt switch for this one?
ReplyDeleteIf you want to use a 3PDT, jumper the 2 switch pads on the board and wire it normally.
DeleteI built this and it works, but there is a significant slapback type of sound if I play individual strings. Playing full chords it kind of blends in, but am I supposed to hear that slapback type of delay when playing single notes? It didn't sound like that in the sound demo video to my ears.
ReplyDeleteWell, it's 2 delay chips set at different short delay times. So it's really just faking the reverb sound since it's really just a fixed delay. I noticed the slapback in my build as well on short, staccato notes. That's just what you're gonna get with this type of reverb (same goes for the Ersatz Verben).
DeleteOk cool. I just wanted to make sure I didn't mess up the build. It doesn't sound like I did.Thanks!
DeleteIve moded it by adding a pot instead of the 15k resistor. i initialy used a trimmer (20k)there to let me dial in on the gap between the two pt's but i like experimenting so i used a 50k pot cause thats what i had. i 20k - 25k pot would have been enough.
ReplyDelete.
I built this without the tails and it sounds great, but now I want to add the tails now. Do I just remove the jumper from sw1 and sw2 and use a dpdt instead of a 3pdt or does something else get connected to sw1 and sw2? I just want to make sure I understand how to correctly do this.
ReplyDeleteYou've got it figured out. Just connect those 2 pads to the footswitch and then the board in and out to the in/out jacks. You can still use a 3PDT, you'll just not use a third of it.
DeleteThanks! I was able to wire it to the 3pdt and still get the tails. Great layout as always!
Delete
ReplyDeleteGood afternoon guys, I rode this project equinox II, but the effect is too subtle, I did with pcb The Valve Wizard and in this Perf and PCB Effects Layout and both the effect is very light, I wonder if there is a possibility to increase this effect, I think mine is correct but the intensity did not please me, it does not come close to youtube reviews. I count on your help.
Have you tried replacing the PT2399s? They can be inconsistent.
Delete
DeleteI will test other pt2399 pairs and report the result.
Hi, my friend, I'd like to have a question about the wiring.
ReplyDeleteSo I saw the wires SW1 and SW2 connected to the left side of the switch, and the input and output connected to the correct jacks?
If I am wrong you can put a diagram explaining this link, please, thank you in advance for your greetings from Brazil
You are correct.
Delete
ReplyDeleteGreat master, thank you for everything, I do not know what we would do without you. hug
Aww hug back :D haha
Deletei decide to do this project,but why its sound like helicopter,there an never ending delay,even when im turn the pot little bit,and not connected to guitar,what is really my problem ?,thx
ReplyDeleteTry replacing your PT2399s. They can be really finicky.
Deletei replace it,and check them both,the ic seems ok,also check and replace the opamp,yet still same problem,i replace the 10M resistor with 4,7M connected series,is that really the problem?,thx
DeleteUpdate : finally get rid the "helicopter" sound,after resoldering the connection with all the cables and changing the pot,but it disappeared only if i turn the pot to the max and get nice reverb,below that the "helicopter" sound still exist,
DeleteSorry use translator
ReplyDeleteI would like to clarify the exact values of the capacitors of the liststa (voltages) only figure uF value and if it is electrolitico, polarized, ceramic or "box-film"
Thank you very much from Santiago de Chile sudamerica .... country of tremors ...
Torreuno@gmail.com
My proyect is an helicopter...
ReplyDeleteHave you tried swapping out the PT2399s?
DeleteYes, I did. I changed eight times... Can be the value (volt) of the caps?
DeleteI'm a little stupid, tell me where to connect sw1 and sw2 and also make the layout of the DPDT button what and where to solder. Thank you. Sorry for my English I'm from Russia.
ReplyDeleteNo worries. Check out the General Layout Notes tab for switch lug numbering. Sw1 and 2 are for the on/off footswitch. Just wire them to the corresponding lugs on the footswitch. Then wire lug 5 of the footswitch to ground, and lug 4 to the negative side of the on/off LED.
DeleteI've tried this circuit ,it worked but it seems lack of reverb at full pot range compared to demo videos ..pls help
ReplyDeleteHave you tried using different PT2399s?
DeleteI only have 1 extra Pt2399,I can't change both, I will get some pt2399...and will try it,
Deleteanyway, I have built this a year ago using stripboard and it worked great unlike my recent built using etched PCB.
Excelent circuit man, I've got just fished mounting the components and it worked at the first try.
ReplyDeleteI've just got one answer..
May I use a 3pdt wired like a "truebypass" and mount a toogle switch connected to the sw1 and sw2 pads? To get a optional "tails" mode I'm trying to say.
Thanks!!
Yes you can. I suggest using this diagram and connect the wires labeled A and B to the Sw1 and Sw2 pads of this layout.
Deletehttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UOCCeDnvgpg/Uqi8wM-_J6I/AAAAAAAACTQ/QdSa3gtekIs/s1600/tails+-+true+bypass+MOD+for+DBD+scaled.jpg
I use this diagram and only works in one state (with tails) the other is clean.
Deleteany sugestion?
Sorry for my english
I build this one....GREAT !!!!
ReplyDeletethanks
i made this circuit but did not work very well, there is a voice tut tut tut
ReplyDeleteWow, enclosure looks really great! Is it an anodized one?
ReplyDeleteCould you tell me where did you buy that? Thanks!:)
It's just a normal 1590B style box. Just did a thin coat of automotive metallic paint and clear coat.
DeleteHello, sorry I want to put together this beautiful pedal but I do not understand exactly what to do with SW1 and SW2 it would be great if I could explain it with a simple drawing if possible. First of all, Thanks. Sorry I am using the translator.
ReplyDeleteEspañol?
DeleteI built this one, at first sound great, but suddenly the 5 volt lines down to 2.5 volt and chips 2399 didnt work. Somebody can help me about that?
ReplyDeleteHi there, hope this blog is still working!! I'm building this one, and have a little doubt: there's a jumper beneath the tl072, right? And it has nothing to do with tails/no tails? Would be really thankfull if someone could help me with that
ReplyDeleteYes, there's a jumper under the TL072. Nothing to do with tails.
DeleteThanks for answering! Build it, didn't work... I joined the sw1 and sw2 oads for testing (and kept it simple, 9v, gnd, in and out, without using any switching... Just a base noise. Checked for shorts between 9v and gnd, and pins 1, 3 and 4 of the pt2399 are receiving correct voltages, so is the opamp. Will sit down with the schem and try to follow the signal with an audio probe!
DeleteWell, I had the tl072 just half plugged (facepalm). Now I have sound but I'm not having reverb... Can be the pt2399s? Do you know if there's a way of audio probe them to know if they're ok?? Waiting for sone more to come anyway
DeleteAlejandro, did you ever figure this out? I'm having the same issue. I get sound, both when on and off, but no discernible reverb effect. I tried 6 different PT2399s from 2 different batches.
DeleteHi there! im having the same problem, did you figure it out? i get sound but no reverb effect, also tried a few couple different pt2399 and nothing changed.
DeleteCan i use tl074 instead of tl072???
ReplyDeleteNo. A TL074 is a quad op amp and the circuit just requires a dual op amp. You theoretically could use a quad and just terminate the unused op amps, but that would require a ton of modification to the layout.
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ReplyDeleteGetting only clean out..no effect plz help :)
ReplyDeleteITs verified! Soundz great!
ReplyDeleteRegards fr Philippines!Jun
It works very well, although it reminds me a lot of a delay. Pay attention to the joint above TL072.
ReplyDeleteGreat layout, thank you for that, but when its turned on i feel that it have a decrease in the volume (maybe 10% not a realy great fall) and a decrease in the highs (like when you turn down the tone knob in some fx pedals), is there something to do about it? maybe changing the 100nF caps for the highs? sorry about my english, i'm from brazil
ReplyDeleteWill it sound cleaner with 2 TP5299s (48KHz) instead of the PT2399s?
ReplyDeleteexelente montei e deu certinho, so que quando as cordas da guitarra soam distorce um pouquinho o som mais resolvi trocando o TL072 por ci-4558 ficou otimo o som
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ReplyDeleteI made 2 circuits like this, both working well, but one has noise in the background all the time, and the noise remains even without the pt 2399. And when you put the pt2399 in, the effect works, but with noise all the time. Any suggestions as to what it could be?
ReplyDelete