Here's the Blue Note overdrive from Rockett. Fairly simple design around one half of a 4558 chip. Pots can be board mounted using right angle PCB mount pots to the solder-side of the board.
Hi storyboardst! Thank you for your work! I made a Blue Note using your layout and overall it works fine :). But I noticed that it takes a few seconds for the effect to "start up" when I power it up. Is it normal behaviour or should I investigate and check out if It has maybe faulty capacitors or something? Thanks.
Sounds like something is wrong. Could be a bad input capacitor. Does it fade in from clean tone to the overdrive or is it no sound then the overdrive comes on?
I cant find a real schematic of this pedal but looking on GFX and marks layout, it looks like a 150nF poly right to the + noninverting pin of the 4558..I have a hard time following perf but it looks to go through the 150Nf as well..
Im not sure whats going on then, you probably have an error someplace else.
only electros I see are the ones coming off the tone pots and teh power filter cap
youre welcome. I had this problem once and that was it. it was on a SHO and was a 100nF mustard cap ..so from that experience, the nonpolarized caps have a time constant also i suppose
the answer i got from mark hammer was "It's a result of the storage/smoothing cap on the power line taking a moment to charge up fully." "It is also the very same reason why, when somebody asks whether it's a good idea to use a 3PDT to bypass AND turn the battery off at the same time (to extend battery lifespan) we collectively say "NO"."
this was one of my very first builds , lol : http://s32.postimg.org/fz175sbnp/Full_Size_Render_15.jpg
and i had to redo it to get it working right, the mustard cap was bad. i know because I have build 50 or more mosfet style boosters since then all working fine.
The layout does follow the schem from FSB. Try replacing the power filter cap as Rascal eluded to above. It's the 47uF cap just below the volume control.
Yeah, there's not much difference between the 2. To make the Animal, change the 1N4007 diodes to 1N4001s, replace the 1.2k resistor with a 470Ω, and use a B500k pot for the Drive pot.
I made these changes and ended up choosing a a500k pot for drive. It gives a smoother flow. With the linear pot all the drive is at the last five minutes
and with a few component changes you can make the Animal OD on the same board
ReplyDeleteHi storyboardst! Thank you for your work!
ReplyDeleteI made a Blue Note using your layout and overall it works fine :). But I noticed that it takes a few seconds for the effect to "start up" when I power it up. Is it normal behaviour or should I investigate and check out if It has maybe faulty capacitors or something? Thanks.
Sounds like something is wrong. Could be a bad input capacitor. Does it fade in from clean tone to the overdrive or is it no sound then the overdrive comes on?
DeleteIt is silent, then becomes very loud kind of "gated" or distorted overdrive for one moment and finally becomes normal.
DeleteYeah, try replacing the input cap (470n) and resistors (1k). That's weird.
DeleteThanks for your replies! I've replaced 470n and 1k, but still having a lag after powering up :( any more ideas maybe?
Deleteit is your electro input cap, time constant is off and taking too long to charge although some is normal
Deletehttp://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113993.0
Just to clarify -- which one is "electro input" on this layout?
DeleteSo, I should replace it with different manufacturer cap, I got it right?
I cant find a real schematic of this pedal but looking on GFX and marks layout, it looks like a 150nF poly right to the + noninverting pin of the 4558..I have a hard time following perf but it looks to go through the 150Nf as well..
DeleteIm not sure whats going on then, you probably have an error someplace else.
only electros I see are the ones coming off the tone pots and teh power filter cap
The only schematic I found is http://www.freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=8160&mode=view not sure if it corresponds to storyboardst's layout.
DeleteAlso this 150nF cap doesn't look suspicious -- it is a good Panasonic cap from Small Bear. Anyway, thank you too!
youre welcome. I had this problem once and that was it. it was on a SHO and was a 100nF mustard cap ..so from that experience, the nonpolarized caps have a time constant also i suppose
Deletethe answer i got from mark hammer was "It's a result of the storage/smoothing cap on the power line taking a moment to charge up fully." "It is also the very same reason why, when somebody asks whether it's a good idea to use a 3PDT to bypass AND turn the battery off at the same time (to extend battery lifespan) we collectively say "NO"."
this was one of my very first builds , lol :
http://s32.postimg.org/fz175sbnp/Full_Size_Render_15.jpg
and i had to redo it to get it working right, the mustard cap was bad. i know because I have build 50 or more mosfet style boosters since then all working fine.
that panasonic possibly could be the culprit
The layout does follow the schem from FSB. Try replacing the power filter cap as Rascal eluded to above. It's the 47uF cap just below the volume control.
DeleteHi! I read that the Animal OD can be built on the same board, know you what changes?
ReplyDeleteYeah, there's not much difference between the 2. To make the Animal, change the 1N4007 diodes to 1N4001s, replace the 1.2k resistor with a 470Ω, and use a B500k pot for the Drive pot.
DeleteAwesome! Next Pedal on the target!
DeleteThank you very much!
DeleteI made these changes and ended up choosing a a500k pot for drive. It gives a smoother flow. With the linear pot all the drive is at the last five minutes
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi, i might be having a man look however I can't see the PCB measurement... what is it
ReplyDeleteLook at the Transfer Image Library. Scaled pdf transfers for every board on the site with measurements
DeleteYou have de scheme? I would like to add a 3 band eq to the pedal. Do you recommend me another layout maybe?
ReplyDeleteHi!
ReplyDeleteI have a very basic question.
How can I wire SPDT to HOT1 and HOT2?