UPDATE:
For those confused by the footswitch wiring for non-true bypass, here's a wiring diagram for reference.
Wednesday, January 20, 2016
Klon Centaur
Don't want to spend two grand on an original? Yeah, me neither. Regarded as one of the best overdrives of all time, the Klon Centaur seems to be something that every guitarist wants on their board. This one's not going to fit in a 1590B (if you want that, check out Madbean's Kingslayer), but you might have enough room in a 125B if you turn the board sideways. This layout follows the original Centaur with buffered bypass (using a DPDT footswitch). If you want to wire it for true bypass, ignore the footswitch wiring pads, and eliminate the 4.7µ cap, 560Ω and 100k resistors on the lower right side of the board near the input. Schematic and more info can be found here.
Nice!
ReplyDeleteIs it possible to draw with 555? Or any advise if I'm use 555 charge pump instead of 7660/1044.
ReplyDeleteThank you.
My suggestion would be to just get a 7660/1044. I don't know a ton about the 555, but from what I've seen online, it's not going to be a good fit in the power section of the Centaur—not sure it'll do positive and negative at the same time like the 7660/1044. I could be wrong, like I said I don't know a ton about the 555. There is a DIY version of the Centaur without the charge pump that plan to layout soon, so keep an eye out for that.
DeleteThanks for suggestion. I'll try to get those ICs in my local area. If I can't, I'll wait the version without charge pump. Anyway, thank you for your efforts.
Delete555 definitely won't straight substitute as a charge pump. The 555 is a timer IC that can be used to build a voltage doubler with some additional circuitry.
DeleteHi, you forgot to add 2 holes for 4742 under 47uf cap for pcb layout
ReplyDeleteThanks anyway
Thanks for catching that. It's been updated.
DeleteHi!
DeleteSorry, but i see no update.
Okay, i've tried it 2 times and it's not working. I added 4742, but nothing changes.
ReplyDeleteThe only thing that is functional is buffer. It definitely buffers.
DeleteGonna need more info if you want help troubleshooting. I've gone over the layout with the schematic several times, so I'm mostly sure it's correct.
DeleteSure, i'll try my best. Can you suggest any further steps?
DeleteCheck your voltages coming off the charge pump, as well as the pins of the other two ICs. Have you gone over the board with a multimeter making sure you don't have a short somewhere?
DeleteNo, i found no shortages, pcb is quite clean (http://i.imgur.com/iCo6A1f.jpg)
DeleteVoltages:
tl072 (left)
1: 14.25
2: 4.06
3: 4.31
4: -7.48
5: 14.86
6: -6.11
7: 4.8
8: 4.3
tl072 (bottom)
1: 4.3
2: 4.3
3: 3.7 drops to 3.3
4: 0.0
5: 7.73
6: 7.13
7: 4.36
8: 4.62
7066
1: 7.69
2: 3.84
3: 0.0
4: -3.67
5: 7.67
6: 5.78
7: 3.78
8: -7.35
Nice etch! Voltages seem a little off. Check this thread on FSB for proper voltages:
Deletehttp://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=6630&hilit=Klon+pin+voltages&sid=718a44d8ce8bf8699a81d618b091e753
The biggest issue tho, is my fault. Pin 7 of the left TL072 isn't getting signal. The perf side of the layout (which is what I layout first, then copy and adapt for PCB) is ok, but somewhere along the line the that connection on the PCB got disconnected. That's fixed now. But to fix your board, jumper these two pads and see if that does the trick. Sorry about that!
http://s14.postimg.org/yq5v45r7l/i_Co6_A1f.jpg
Thanks! I've added the jumper and now it sounds like a low gain overdrive, even it's clone - EHZ soulfood sounds more gainy. Drive pot also needs to reversed since it adds virtually no gain at 5 o'clock.
DeleteFixed the lug numbers for the drive pot. Again, compare your voltages as that might be why it's not as high gain. The far left opamp is IC2 in the schematic/voltage readings, FYI.
Deletehi, my build have a permanently bizz sound , and not have saturation , if i set gain pot all way up , the sound is only clean . not have shortcut . i build another but i have same problem , ic is tl072 and 7660 , i tried opa2604 but have the same result .
ReplyDeleteHave you gone through it with an audio probe?
Deletehttp://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html
yes , now work well , but i have the high frequency noise from icl7660 ... i build 2 circuit and have same problem , hiss sound ( high frequency oscillation noise)
DeleteTry increasing the 1µF caps just below the 7660 to 10µF and the 47µF cap above and the 7660 to 100µF. You may need to add a 100nF cap from 9v to ground too.
Deletethe problem is ic 7660 , because i change it with max 1044... result....0 noise
ReplyDeleteIn think that ic should be ICL7660SCPA, especially with suffix SCPA. I don´t have build this yet, but sure I will! Maybe with Silver Edition changes: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2014/07/klon-centaur-silver-edition.html#comment-form
ReplyDeletenow have the pop switch sound .... shit !
ReplyDeleteHi Storyboardist,
ReplyDeletefirst, thanks a lot for your work.
Is there any way to get the perfboard files ? Which software are you using ?
I'm really interested in them (and not in the pcbs) as I am using obsolete components I need to resize the layout and do some modifications and I really would like to reuse instead of re-design...
Thanks in advance
Shoot me an email. Address is in the general layout notes tab in the comments
DeleteHi
ReplyDeleteBuilt it and it works
Strange hiss at high settings. Think it is the 7660
thank you
joe
Hi! I tried twice do this pcb but never works. Don't have sound. I tested all components before solder then but not work (until i used the exactly MAX1044, same diodes and resistors 1% metal film). This symbol in capacitors (like a minus -) represents the positive side of the capacitors? That elliptic 1uF capacitor near to jumper, it's tantalum capacitor? In dual gang potentiometer, the "A" is the pin near to the shaft or is like this (http://www.bcae1.com/images/jpegs/potentiometerradioshack01.jpg)? If this pinout of the potentiometer's wrong is possible to have no sound? Thanks a lot bro. Salute from Brazil (HUEHUE BR BR)
ReplyDeleteThe negative (-) symbol represents the negative side of the capacitor. That's probably why your build isn't working. If you followed the lettering of the pot diagram you posted it should be fine. And yes, that elliptic 1µ cap is a tantalum, but an electrolytic can also be used.
DeleteThanks a lot!
DeleteWell, as thanks proof, I've created a Spreadsheet with the parts list for this pedal. I'm willing to do the same with all projects that I'm building
ReplyDeletehere it is, let me know if something is wrong or missing
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1L4bpWkDy8o08zsZMMUzvqO2itxqFvGtfNPFi0ZQbi_g/edit?usp=sharing
Don't forget the 2.2nf and 82nf film caps. Those aren't in the BOM. Don't make the same mistake I did.
DeleteHello
ReplyDeleteI did not understand the explanation of the key.
If I want to use classic 3PDT what should I do with this scheme?
Hi! I wanted to ask if it is posible that I'm getting only clean signal (no overdrive, and pots not working) because I used an LT1054 insted of Max1044, or because I used a 1uf Metal film cap (Blue Epcos) insted of tantalum or electro? Already checked for shorts and solder joints...Thanks in advance!!!
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't think charge pump would be the problem as long as it's outputting the proper voltages. And the cap also shouldn't matter. Have you tried going over your build with an audio probe?
Deletehttp://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html
Thanks for your answer. Made the Audio probe and I'm learning tons of stuff while I trake the audio path with the schematic, but I still have more questions then answers...Is it posible that the two 1N34A from these diagram/Layput need to be inversed? I was checking with the Tru bypass version, and they seem to have anode and katode inverted...What I found with the probe is that I can here the Tone pot working, but only clean signal. Same with volume pot, no overdrive...
DeleteThe diodes most likely aren't the issue, unless you have bad diodes. They're hard clippers in this circuit and as long as one anode goes to ground and the other cathode goes to ground.
DeleteI could trace the signal pad, and found something interesting: it seems the gain pot is reversed, and by turning the pot counterclockwise I can hear the overdriven sound coming out of Pin 7 from Ic2 (The one at the left), sound remains until It reaches that 392k resistor...after that resistor I can hear no sound...Already checked for shorts, and replaced that resistor...I think I'm getting closer but still need your help!
DeleteI can also hear at a much lower volume overdriven sound from the pat after that 47k resistor coming from pin 6 that goes to FtSw6..
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
Delete
DeleteEven closer....I get loud overdriven signal at footswitch 3 ( that goes to volume 2) and also at Ftsw6. Connecting the pedal with regular cable from pedal to amp, I can hear the clean signal, and an almost imperceptible overdrive sound..
mark this as verified but the footswitch wiring is wrong
ReplyDeleteswap volume 2 with fswpad1 cause they are reversed
and in effect mode we have bypass
and in bypass effect
please redraw it thanks
cheers from greece
Thanks Mitsos, you saved my life :-), swaped volume 2 with fswpad and everything is fine!
ReplyDeleteThanks Effects Layout and storyboardist
Yes! Thank you Mitsos, thanks sotryboardist. Swapped volume 2 too.
ReplyDeleteFirstly i would like to thank you for an amazing site. Thanks to you i have a king of tone, angry charly, ocd, tube screamer and a few buffers and compressor pedals all worked first time THANKYOU.
ReplyDeleteIve not been as lucky with this one.
I have sound but it is low and gain and tone don't work.
Voltage at pin 1 of IC2 is -6.6v and voltage is a bit low across the board .I've replaced chip 3 times with same effect.
Any ideas please.
Thank you for sharing the schematic of great pedal. Gain A1 and A3, B1 and B3 are opposite. On the footswitch writing, volume 2 with fswpad1 are opposite. Otherwise fine. I got cool sound. Again thank you very much.
ReplyDeletehi, I wanted to know if the schematics have been updated and corrected
ReplyDeleteIt seems when comparing this to the schematic IC 1 is upside down? https://www.electrosmash.com/klon-centaur-analysis
ReplyDeleteHi, I am having trouble seeing whether the 1uf caps are .1uf or 1uf. Also which way does the the Tantalum 1uf cap go.... hard to see. Maybe my age but I do have glasses on :).
ReplyDeleteIf they're polarized caps, they're 1uF (if it's .1uF I usually label it 100nF to avoid such confusion). 1uF tantalum should have the negative leg going to ground (green trace).
DeleteThanks. The other thing is now that I got that straight is that this works great but only if I bridge the volume and ftsw1 pad lugs on the stomp switch. It’s got me beat but works really well.
ReplyDeleteJust saw a previous post... reversing volume 2 and Ftsw 1 on the stomp pedal works.
ReplyDeleteHow does it sound? I mean, someone who has already built it
ReplyDeleteDrive pot is wrong
ReplyDeleteHello. I have the pedal mounted. It works perfectly with the effects, but when in false bypass there is a slight noise, only coming out when with effects on. Can you help with the resolution? Thanks
ReplyDeleteHello, I cannot find the polarized capacitors (820pF and 390pF).
ReplyDeletecan anyone has a solution ?
ReplyDeleteI used ceramics and it works perfectly
So not polarized?
ReplyDeleteYes. 390 and 820pF capacitors are not polarized
DeleteAttention: The condenser above in the yellow diagram, must be of tantalum
DeleteBut tantalum capacitor aren't always polarized ?
ReplyDeleteSo the 3 yellow caps for the klon must be tantalum but I cannot find those values.
Does anyone know where to buy 390pF & 820pF caps?
OK, according to the schematics, both 390pF and 820pF aren't polarized, so not tantalum cpas. Only the 1uF orange cap is tantalum polarized cap. Am I correct?
ReplyDeleteThank you
Correct
Deletethanks for the help, im trying to make this thing using this lay out https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10217682735010840&set=pcb.10217682736890887
ReplyDeleteI´ve just build it and I got it working, Just a note to help others with problems that may appear.
ReplyDeleteAs stated before wires for GAIN are inverted, A1 with A3, and the same with B1 and B3.
Footswitch wires FSW1 and VOL 2 are inverted also.
Finally, I was getting a high pitch tone in the background even when the effect was OFF, If you connect IC 3 (7660S) to ground you shut up the oscilator of the IC and get rid of that tone.
I´m using BAT 41 as clipping diodes. AWESOME pedal! thanks
Well I´ve just realized that shortin IC3 lug 7 to ground will damage de IC so don´t do that, unless you want to use the Klon without the charge pump :0
DeleteInstall max 1044 IC instead this 7660 and there will be no high pich tone any more
Delete
ReplyDeleteThis is the reverse of the foot switch wiring, when the led is on, the volume cable should go to terminal 1
Correct
ReplyDeleteJust to echo grounding IC3 pin 7, DONT DO IT! It almost melted my IC!
ReplyDeleteIt sounded great for 2 minutes then started smoking!
For all the people having "hiss" problems with the charge pump:
ReplyDeleteIn these chips there's a leg to increase the oscillation frequency. This leg won't work if the chip is a counterfeit. Buy your 7660/1044 chip from a trustful provider.
Question: What is the 2M resistor for? I can't find it in the original schematic.
Regards and thank you.
I’m also getting the high pitch hiss that others have reported. I’m using a 1044 that I know is real, so no idea where it’s coming from.
ReplyDeleteProblems with Jack connection, for me is clear Jack output but Jack in is directly to in of Pcb? Thanks.
ReplyDeleteHave some diagram to connect with 3PDT?
ReplyDeleteHi friends pedal works fine, but when led is on the pedal not work and when the led is out the pedal works any idea why? Kind regards from Barcelona
ReplyDelete