Monday, May 25, 2015
JHS Morning Glory
The JHS Morning Glory is a modified Blues Breaker overdrive, but with an added JFET output buffer to increase the volume. The original Marshall circuits barely made it above unity with the volume maxed (see the video below), so the output buffer is a good improvement over the original. There's also a high cut switch to help tame single coils a bit. I wasn't quite able to get the on-board pots to be in the exact layout as the JHS units (the Tone control and High Cut switch are reversed), but it's close enough. You should be able to board mount the SPST high cut switch as well.
Hey man, I see that the 10nf capacitor between the First pin from the Tone control goes to ground after. Searching around the web I found this schematic and the same capacitor goes to "VB+", not to ground, so the schematic is wrong or this layout? Thanks https://scontent-mia1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/11221912_886219964747403_2666280907683882631_o.jpg
ReplyDeleteYou're right. Nice catch. Fixed the layout and it should be good to go now.
DeleteCan you upload the new PDF for this PCB?
DeleteThanks
Sorry about that. Should be good to go now.
DeleteThanks a lot !!!!!!!!!
DeleteHi! Where can I download the right PDF? Just to be sure. Thanks!
DeleteIt's in the JHS folder in the Transfer Image Library
DeleteHi man, the effect has low volume, this isuue is solving changing the 68k resistor for 100r, this solve the problem.Bye!
ReplyDelete100k or 100ohm?
Delete100ohm. "r" typically means ohm for some reason.
DeleteThanks man, there are other error in the diagram? This are my first steps in this, sorry for my inexperience and thanks a lot for your job, your diagrams are really simply to understand and you do everything so simple for me. Great job!! And i want to know, if I ask for other pedals you can build it? Once again great job and thanks a lot!
DeleteThe layout's been verified, so it should work. I'm open to suggestions for future posts, but please include a schematic.
DeleteHi, is what's the final value of this resistor? Or it depends on the fet?
DeleteHello i´ve seen the error but can you please upload the new PCB for the circuit
ReplyDeletebecause stills being the same
Thanks
Hello again
ReplyDeletebut i have some issues with this it sounds very low and i cant hear the fx of the pedal
i checked a lot of times the layout and everything is ok the solders etc.
please help me
Could be a bad/wrong component. Double check your values and it still checks out, use an audio probe to figure out where the issue is.
Deletehttp://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html
Is the spst switch using in this layout the regular one? Or there is something different?
ReplyDeleteThanks buddy
I mean used. Excuse my bad English..
DeleteNot really. You can use a board mount switch if you want, but any on/off SPST should work just fine.
Deletefinal check before I start building it, is on/on switch can be used here?
Deletethanks brother
Yes it'll work. Now I'm gonna drop some knowledge on you
Deletehttps://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/switch-basics/poles-and-throws-open-and-closed
can i ask where can put number 2 knobs connection in board ? i cna only see 1 and 3? thanks
ReplyDeleteOn the pad directly between 1 and 3.
Deletethanks
Deletehi, do you have a layout for the twin twelve of jhs?
ReplyDeleteNo. But if you can find a schematic for it, I can make one.
Deletehi there im wanted to build BYOC looper can you check my DIAGRAM? im confuse about if it will work , i cant find any diagram so i draw it on photoshop
ReplyDeletei have finished building this and everything works perfectly okay except the loud noise...
ReplyDeleteis it normal?
Yeah, that's not normal. Time to pull out the audio probe
Deletehttp://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html
done!
Deletethanks man.. new knowledge, new pedal.
thank you
Cool. So you got it working?
Deleteperfecly brother, perfectly.
DeleteNow that's what I like to hear!
Delete@berkicau what did u do to fix it?
DeleteNoob question but what part is the GSD?
ReplyDeleteThat's the JFET (Q1), and the letters mean where Q1's legs are going: Gate, Source and Drain.
Deletepregunta de principiante .... en el circuito actual tiene que corregirse aun el problema del 68k a 100r?
ReplyDeletehttp://s32.postimg.org/49be1nehh/IMG_1043.jpg
ReplyDeletehttp://s32.postimg.org/g9s8omwid/IMG_1044.jpg
I am starting to get better at etching ..still on starter toner, 60 bucks for new one ...oh my
I have it working but to get overdrive it needs to be at 10 and then it squeals ..switch is doing nothing at all
im proud of my etching skills and have done two working perfs from here, so I am starting to get better!
I wish this one would get going for me
Did u fix the squeals?
Deletei'm a beginner, in pictures above, why some capacitors (green) has 3 holes to put on instead of 2? would you help me explain the reason? sorry my bad English, thank you
ReplyDeleteThat's due to size. Film caps generally span 3 holes, sometimes 4 with large values (mainly if you're using the green mylar caps).
DeleteFirst of all, i looove ur site and am very appreciative that you've made these great projects available. Now, in this layout I notice a couple potential issues. 1.)The 10n nearest the input pad doesn't have a corresponding pad for the lead that is on the same trace ass the other 10n below it. 2.) One of the 100uf caps (bottom) has the - lead on the 9+ bus instead of ground. That's a problem, right!??
ReplyDeleteRegarding the 100uf cap, I see the layout follows the schematic by irmcdermott precisely. But does it make sense electrically? Perhaps the schematic is wrong...
DeleteFixed that missing pad. Thanks for catching that. That weird 100uF cap is apart of the original pedal. I'm not really sure why it's there either and it would work fine without it most likely. The layout has been built by several people and does work, so build with confidence.
Deletebuilt and tested,, sounds reallllly great! thanks again =)))
DeleteBy reviewing other circuit diagrams I decided to delete that capacitor and the noise decreased a lot.
DeleteI think I found another missing pad for the first diode (4001) ;)
ReplyDeleteyes !
Deleteinfo about switch:
ReplyDeleteA single pole switch can't be on-on, it's either making contact or not. So a SPST switch is a simple on or off contact, a SPDT switch makes two contacts with a common, like this:
1
2
3
2 is the common so the switch either makes contact between 1 and 2, or 2 and 3.
will 2n5458 work instead of 2n5457?
ReplyDeletebecause 2n5457 is hard to find around my country.
Yeah that should be fine
Deletehey man..as i did some research,, i found that the JHS used WIMA capacitor..is it true?
ReplyDeleteif so,, what's the capacitor value?
(sorry..i'm just a beginner)
No idea what manufacturer JHS uses for their caps. Shouldn't really made for cloning the pedal though. Use what you can get your hands on. Caps all do the same thing no matter who makes them.
Deletethanks man =)
Deleteby the way,, LM833 is similar to LM833N, LM833NG or LM833P? which one is the best?
DeleteAny of those should work just fine.
DeleteHey Guys
ReplyDeleteDoes anyone have the revised and verified diagram of this pedal?
This effect is very very very very sensitive to power supplies. Make sure you use something isolated. I tried 2 different wall warts and this pedal was terrible. Went with a Walrus Audio Aetos and it quieted everything down.
ReplyDeleteBom dia. Notei que o poenciometro de volume interfere no efeito, mesmo com pedal desligado. solucionei trocando o resitor de 1M 2M2 (anti ploc) por um resistor de 100k.
ReplyDeletemas o principal problema que encontrei foi um chiado (ruído rosa). ja substituí o C.I 833 por tl072. mesmo assim continua. Você pode me ajudar, por gentileza?
This actual layout is working ok? Need any correction?
ReplyDeleteIt's working just fine as far as i know.
DeleteThere was a loud noise ... but I was able to solve my problem. I found out it's my power suply. I solved by putting a 47 ohm resistor on the power cable on the positive side. 95% of the noise was eliminated. Only until I buy a better quality font.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteLayout normal.
DeleteIt's a great layout. It's working very well!!!
ReplyDeleteO problema o chiado. Estranho que somente acontece com algumas fontes.em outras fica ótimo.
ReplyDeleteJustamente a fonte que ocasiona o ruido. Necessita de uma fonte filtrada, isolada, de boa qualidade... Os pedais jhs têm muita sensibilidade, quando se trata de fonte...
DeleteI made another filter on my power supply. Now it's without noise! Perfect!
ReplyDeletehttps://uploaddeimagens.com.br/images/001/612/906/original/IMG-20180914-WA0006.jpeg?1536943925
Could you describe what you did?
DeleteThank you !
Qual o valor dos capacitarores? Esse circuito pode ser colocado internamente no pedal?
ReplyDeleteColoquei 1000uF 16v... Pode sim, não afeta em nada no resultado...
DeleteColoquei um de 100uf e já ótimo. Muito obrigado pela ajuda.
ReplyDeleteThe drilling template of this project are wrong... Switch and tone pots are as the original. The layout has it reversed....
ReplyDeleteFixed! Sorry that took so long
DeleteCool! Time to make a second one! Thanks!
DeleteHola ,se corrigió o arregló el asunto del PCB placa? Está verificado y el que dale en Google o en PDF está listo sin errores?
ReplyDeleteWhat's up guys? First, excuse my English, I'm using google to communicate =). So, I've done this project twice, printed and per perf. In both, I did not succeed. Analyzing the original circuit of BB, I know that we do not have the D1 (1n4001), but like most of the current circuits, it was added as a form of security. Until ok. Analyzing my two failed projects, I realized that the component is going to GND. I think it's a mistake. The current does not reach the circuit as it should. Am I right or wrong? I ask with all due respect who has benefited from your projects.
ReplyDeletesee you later
In addition, the position of the D1 component also seems not to be correct ... thanks
DeleteThat diode is correct. It's there for polarity protection so if the wrong power supply is plugged it that diode keep the rest of the circuit's components from damage. I suggest going through both of your builds with an audio probe and checking with a multi-meter for any shorts. This layout's been verified several times over at this point.
Deletehttps://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html
Bom dia tenho uma dúvida em relação a essa 1-sw2 alguém pode me ajudar estou começando
ReplyDeleteUma dúvida na verdade
ReplyDeletePosso substituir o lm833n por um tl072 ? Obrigado por isso!
ReplyDeleteYes, a TL072 will work
Deletethank you so much for all this!
DeleteI built one on 2020/02 and works perfectly!! TY
ReplyDeleteHello of everyone, im new in the blog. my name is Camilo im from Colombia i want build the pedal the morning glory. im not electronic, but i want
ReplyDeleteto learn. thank a everyone.
will it work with 18v without damaging anything?
ReplyDeleteSorry I'm a n00b at this. when choosing different caps, what voltage rating should I be using? for example, I looking at a 10nf that is rated for 50v. is this ok to use in a 9v circuit?
ReplyDelete50v is just fine
Deleteawesome thanks!
DeleteI've been looking at the version 4 they are currently using. They have a bright/dark switch built in on the side by the input. would this just be an extra switchable cap on the output?
ReplyDeletealso looking on amazon where I found an inter picture and you can clearly see the lm833 op amp, but there seems to be a second op amp up at the top close to the power jack. https://www.amazon.ca/JHS-Morning-Glory-Overdrive-Pedal/dp/B06XGH58GY
ReplyDeletealso he seems to really like voltage regulators, would this be for tuning consistency? or why?
ReplyDeletewill a j112 do the trick?
ReplyDeleteHola, tienes el diseño de la versión 4? O que modificaciones tendría para ser la versión 4 del Morning Glory? Muchas gracias de antemano
ReplyDeleteencontraste el proyecto V4?
Deletedoes anyone have the schematic, project, of morning glory v4?
ReplyDeleteBuilt two but it suffers from mains interference, both do it so not the build and it's gone on a 9v battery.
ReplyDeleteAnyone got suggestions how the power staging section can be altered to treat it?
I have 2 pedals singing like birds now, and with mods!
ReplyDeleteCrucial mod: remove the 100ns and 10uf after the diode and the 100uf in the top right. They actually create ppwer filtering issues (which is true in the original morning glory too). Putting it to just the 2 47Ks and the one 100uf mirrors the bluesbreaker power stage instead... And it's cleaner for it too. You still got pots sounding mental noise at full but that's just the circuit.
Mod 2: Gain toggle ala V4. Pull the 12K between JFets Source and positive of the 2.2uf. Solder two wires in its place going into a toggle switch.
ON-ON: Put 12K one side, 4.5K the other
ON-OFF-ON: Same as above but nothing in the middle.
You now have high-low gain (and even lower in the middle with the on-off-on).
Nice tips! I'll try it!
DeleteHey Chris could you create a schematics note for this one I don't really understand the power supply mod
DeleteThis is the first pedal I made and it works! Thanks a lot, Ive started this project 4 years ago and after having a bad result I've given up, but now I resume that and I finally complete that, I made the changes commented, like change the 68k resistor for a 100ohm resistor and put a resistor in the 9 volt enter for cancelling the noise. I'm really happy, once again thanks a lot man! I want to ask for layouts of small and big amplifiers like VOX Pathfinder or other amps of 10-15 watts and big amplifiers without valves because I'm just s noob and I'm from argentina and I don't have a lot of money and all that stuff are really expensive. So for me is so satisfying to made my own setup and it will be more economic! So I'll be waiting for that!
ReplyDeletehello,
ReplyDeleteAlguém pode me ajudar ?
Como colocar uma chave de clip de 2 posições para mudar a compressão deste pedal
I made its qorking fine there one hune problem if i turn in up theses a squeeeelll
ReplyDeleteHigh pitch noise
I tried changing opamps i tried diffrent op amps but still no use
Im using b100k , b100k and b50k( with 47k resistor on lug 1 and 3 to make it close to 25k)
Just finished this one. Playing it right next to a Morning Glory (V4), it's pretty close. The output is significantly lower, overall it doesn't have the clarity or smooth gain structure as the JHS pedal. I don't have an original through-hole v1 Morning Glory to compare it to though.
ReplyDeleteNot that surprising as the V4 has a bit more circuitry than this version.
DeleteYeah, that makes sense. If I dial it in, it sounds really close! The differences in sound are mostly apparent at high gain settings. Bonus that it fits in a 1590B!
Deletehello what an incredible site thank you very much for sharing these projects, guys I'm putting together my first project, I saw that this pedal has a 2 position selector switch, in this project is it possible to place this switch and if so where would I make the connection of it on the board? because in this project we don't even have that key thanks
ReplyDeleteIs it common for the effect even with half gain to have a lot of noise or hum? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThe voltage on the bias (behind the 47k resistor) is very weak. I don't know the cause, please help.
ReplyDelete